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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 06:19 PM
  #1  
Labhound's Avatar
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Walker pipe

I got my Walker down pipe for the efi manifolds today, mocked then up and noticed the front flanges don't match up .

[IMG]<a href="http://s1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh490/Labhound2/?action=view&amp;current=photo2-13.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh490/Labhound2/photo2-13.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>[/IMG]

[IMG]<a href="http://s1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh490/Labhound2/?action=view&amp;current=photo3-2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh490/Labhound2/photo3-2.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>[/IMG]

Is there something I'm missing like a gasket?

This is the rear.

[IMG]<a href="http://s1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh490/Labhound2/?action=view&amp;current=photo1-14.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh490/Labhound2/photo1-14.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>[/IMG]
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 09:05 PM
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looks like it fits to me. That type of exhaust joint doesn't use a gasket.

TR
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 09:26 PM
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Only the rear fits, not the front, do you see the gap?
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 09:28 PM
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can you not cinch those pieces together with the bolts?

Tracy
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 09:41 PM
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Only if I do some relief cuts and weld then up, that's as far as it'll go.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 09:44 PM
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maybe you need some bigger bolts...

Sorry. Guess that I'm not helping much.

However, I'd heat the pipe with a torch before I'd go and make relieve cuts.

Can you loosen the EFI headers at the head and gain some room?

I ran headers on mine, so I'm not familiar with the EFI pipes and Y connector.

TR
 
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 10:57 PM
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Use the Dorman exhaust stud kit for an EFI truck and you'll be golden. I have the Walker pipe on my 92, no issues at all. Only recommendation I would make is use some Copper RTV on the pipe at install, not necessary, but keeps things quiet.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 11:01 PM
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Dorman part 03135 is what I used to replace the original, rusty studs on my truck.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 11:04 PM
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Also, the 2 flanges didn't line up perfect on mine, but the pipe shifted/moved into place as I tightened the nuts, and has been fine for 6+ months now. Throw the studs in, tighten the brass nuts pretty snug, and enjoy.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by kas83
Also, the 2 flanges didn't line up perfect on mine, but the pipe shifted/moved into place as I tightened the nuts, and has been fine for 6+ months now. Throw the studs in, tighten the brass nuts pretty snug, and enjoy.
x2

There's flex in the pipe. When you tighten it down, it'll fall into place.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 10:35 AM
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I cannot see where this has been mentioned in this thread, but be sure and check where the rear pipe is welded to the down pipe as some have found the the hole is not large enough... look down the back pipe and if not opened enough, some have used a hole saw or grinder to get the best flow.

Perhaps AbandonedBronco can share his experience.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 1986F150six
I cannot see where this has been mentioned in this thread, but be sure and check where the rear pipe is welded to the down pipe as some have found the the hole is not large enough... look down the back pipe and if not opened enough, some have used a hole saw or grinder to get the best flow.

Perhaps AbandonedBronco can share his experience.
Unfortunately, I've never been able to open mine up, but it wasn't nearly as bad as some that I've seen! Next time I have my engine out, I would like to clean it up a bit more though.
It wouldn't affect fitment though.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 1986F150six
I cannot see where this has been mentioned in this thread, but be sure and check where the rear pipe is welded to the down pipe as some have found the the hole is not large enough... look down the back pipe and if not opened enough, some have used a hole saw or grinder to get the best flow.

Perhaps AbandonedBronco can share his experience.
Thanks for that advice, I'll do that.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 09:05 PM
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Forgot all about mentioning the rear pipe. I bought a 6" carbide burr to clean mine up, very quick n painless. Mine had ~1" diameter hole to start, lots of slag from the torch cut on assembly.

Also, if you plan on running a cat, Thunderbolt has a 2.5" hi flow unit for $40 that fits perfectly in the drop section behind the O2 bung and rise for the trans crossmember. I'll see if I can get some pics of mine and have someone upload them, can't do it from my phone.
 
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