Multimeter Idiot
On the aftermarket gauges, 12v power goes in to the gauge. The gauge itself is a load, so there will be a 12v drop through the gauge. The path to ground determines what the gauge will read. What that all means is that it might appear to have zero volts at the wire going from the gauge to the sending unit. That wire is really just a ground path for the gauge. The sending unit is a variable resistor that is in that ground path. You need it to be that 33/240 ohm sender.
You could do a test by buying some resistors at Radio shack...you can string them together (in series) to add up to 33 ohms. If you attach the resistors to the sending unit wire and touch it to a ground, the gauge should read empty.
Are there any adaptors that will allow you to use the hole that is already in the mustang tank??
Dan
This is a picture of the deal we used to splice the third brake light wire
back together - Is this the way you guys would do a splice? Or would you do the screw cap thing or solder it?
Ben in Austin
(I'm not typically this dense - I've done mechanical things just not electrical - thought I'd take the opportunity for some on the job training).
Do not use this style of connector, it cuts the wire creating a weak/breaking point. I solder and heatshrink all my connections, (but that my Robotics background). you can use Butt or Barrel Crimp style.
Thanks - Our current after market fuel guage mismatched to the 1970 sender unit - shows a range from buried Full down to about 3/4's full for empty. I haven't tried to change the resistance in the line as I know what the real solution is - It's bothering me that it doesn't work right.
I have to get it right - it's a personal problem - plus I have "cheap" 20 year old son labor. I just need to make sure he doesn't blow up doing it.
So..... What's the safest way to cut a sender hole in the top of a gas tank that recently held fuel & has active fumes?
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
(P.S. - I'll try your radio shack ohm resistor just to see what it does to the reported gauge range - I'm curious).

Wash the tank 2 or 3 times then fill it with water and let it stand over night totally filled to the point of spilling. Then still say a prayer. Dave S
I had to fix alot of trailer wiring....most of the problems I encountered were these connectors. 3M calls them "ScotchLoks" most of the issues were corrosion problems, some were wires that were cut by the little blade piece, over time, the movement\bounce of the trailer would break the already "damaged" wire.
I wish I had a dollar for everyone of those I repaired.
I had to fix alot of trailer wiring....most of the problems I encountered were these connectors. 3M calls them "ScotchLoks" most of the issues were corrosion problems, some were wires that were cut by the little blade piece, over time, the movement\bounce of the trailer would break the already "damaged" wire.
I wish I had a dollar for everyone of those I repaired.
I just called the local Ford dealer and sure enough the gauges carry the same part # from 1980 -1986 on all lines of trucks from F-150 - the 350 series, if that is the case than I guess it would be safe to assume that since the gauge and the sending unit has to be paired that no matter the drivetrain wether it be 6 cyl or 8 the gauges and sending units would all carry the same values. What do you think ?
Clearly the sending units are not identical, I have pulled enough of them now to see there appearances vary but that would be on account of fuel tank changes such as size, pick-up location whatever.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
The peculiarity I ran into for the '70 mustangs is they are
"bi-metallic" & the gauge/sender doesn't function in a linear way.
The gauge shows half 3/4th's of the way across - it's odd. I think you are safe if you stick with senders & gauges from the same era of trucks.
Let me look arond for the write-up on the non-linear bi-metallic senders.
Ben









