Trailer Brake Controller wiring
Anyway, It wont fit on a car dolly. So we are going to use a tandem axle car hauler. And it has trailer brakes. I've done plenty of towing before, but nothing that I've needed a brake controller for. I'll be using my 84 F250 HD. 6.9 IDI, T19 with 3.55 gears. Already has a frame hitch. And it also has the Road Warrior 10k tow bumper. I believe it has the round 7 prong plug built in. But I do not believe it's wired up to anything. I will check later and update. I am pretty good with electrical, I actually enjoy doing it. So I dont think it will be to hard to do. But If anyone has any tips or hints to help. I'd really appriciate it.
BUT
The best way is to hook directly to the battery for both positive and negative (with a fuse of course).
I had mine hooked up to the factory tow wiring and smoked (literally) an expensive unit. The next one went straight to the battery and has been working great.
On the output to the brakes, use a larger wire, like 10 ga, don't skimp.
Edit: Make sure what ever you get can handle 2 and 4 brake systems. You never know what you'll be pulling in the future.
BUT
The best way is to hook directly to the battery for both positive and negative (with a fuse of course).
I had mine hooked up to the factory tow wiring and smoked (literally) an expensive unit. The next one went straight to the battery and has been working great.
On the output to the brakes, use a larger wire, like 10 ga, don't skimp.
Edit: Make sure what ever you get can handle 2 and 4 brake systems. You never know what you'll be pulling in the future.
The brake line under the hood used to go to the master cylinder(it was hooked to a tee in the brake line).
Someone changed the master cylinder probably and didn't need or bother to hook it back up..
Personally, I would trash it and get an electronic unit, Kelsey, or whatever.
You can get them(depending on how fancy you want) for anywhere from 69 to 125 $..
NAPA, Autozone, O'Reilly's,Wal-Mart,, Carry them..
The electronic units are good..I have one on each of my trucks.
Be sure to run a hot wire(with breaker or fuse) direct to battery + side.
Run your ground from battery also..
The brake wire to rear(for trailer brakes) should be AT LEAST a 12 gauge, I prefer a 10 gauge wire..
Also, when you run the brake wire(usually blue) to the back of the truck, be sure to use protection on the wire(not a condom).
An old garden hose works good. Just run it through it and not worry about it getting shorted on the frame...wire tie it up and good...
All the other wires to your rear plug can be connected from the wiring harness at the rear...be sure to solder and heat shrink all connections..unless you have one with plugs from factory harness.
Enough rambling...Here is how your plug should be wired for operation..
White----Ground
Green----Right turn
Yellow----Left turn.
Brown----Tail and marker lights..
Blue (usually) to trailer brakes..This is the one you ran from the brake controller to the rear...
Maybe this will help.....Trav...
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I was going up a steep grade, slowly, turned my fourways on and my brakes where being applied with each flash.
what's wrong here? is there some add-on i need?
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I was going up a steep grade, slowly, turned my fourways on and my brakes where being applied with each flash.
what's wrong here? is there some add-on i need?
It has your sensitivity control on one side and on the other side is your RAMP ****..
That ramp **** will let you adjust a delay before your brakes are energized on your trailer..
In other words, adjust it and your brakes won't pulse with flashers...Works great...
I have one...It is about 130 $...Trav..








