I have read tig welding is what is required when putting a plug in the cooler. Unfortunately our tig welder at work is on lock down so I only have access to a mig. Now as for plug options, I've got stainless, 21, 4140, 1020 cold roll, you name it. I know stainless is the metal of choice but do I have other options with any of these other metals? Thanks guys.

 

You can use a mig just fine. Keep the heat low and wire speed to suit. For example using 3/16 plate use 17.5 volts and 225 speed.

You can use any metal, and despite what some may think mild steel and stainless can be welded perfectly fine. With mild use the standard 75/25 mix. With all stainless you'll need the helium/co2/argon mix for the best weld.

I would use .035 wire as well.

Josh

 

either run or cooler or dont. do not block off a failed cooler it will bite you.

 

Cheezit, even if both ends of cooler and uppipe are blocked off? May try to homemake a reroute that just keeps the cooler in place to support the uppipe.

 

just my .02 worth. free advise is worth what you pay use it or dont it cost nothing up front.

once again i would opt other wise

 

Cheezit, your advice is duly noted and I made a judgement call based on the resources I had at the time and hope it doesnt bite me later. Now that being said I did take extra preventative precautions. First off, on plugging my uppipe I made a stainless plug that was just about 1 1/4" long. I put my pipe in one of the cnc mills at work and machined a recess about a 1/4 deep and made my plug to press fit. Also machined a similar recess in the intake side of the egr cooler and press fit a plug into that also so that plug has a shoulder aswell. The uppipe isnt welded but along with being press fit into the pipe it is also held in place by the flange on the end of the cooler. Both sides of the cooler are welded with almost a 1/4" of weld plus the plugs. The exhaust side of the cooler just has a straight plug. Here are some pics of the cooler and uppipe. I didnt completely remove the scoop but while it was in the cnc I just circle milled the diameter down to cut it out so there is just a little edge left as can be seen in the pic, didnt figure that was worth the extra trouble to remove since its not really gonna block anything plus the plug sits flush with the inside of the pipe anyway so there isnt any chance of exhaust going into the leg going to the cooler. Again Cheezit I did take your advice seriously and do thank you for giving it but I hope with my extra steps that I made a wise decision. In the process of getting it all back in the truck, got turbo back in but gotta get the alternator and belt back on, didnt have luck tripping the leg to give slack on the tensioner so if theres a trick Id like someone to share with me. Hopefully Ill get it on sometime in the morning but its threatening rain so since Im outside that will limit me on what I can do. Hope it all goes well. Ill keep ya posted.

 

most people dont have access to the tools are the know how to do things this way. mills are cool toys... i so want one.

 

So why are you plugging the EGR cooler now

 

Cheezit, do you think Ill be ok? And the reason for plugging is I had coolant in my cylinders so was told my cooler ruptured. I did not mess with the oil cooler since my deltas were good. Dont know how common the egr coolers on the 05+ models are to go out without oil cooler failure but apparently mine did.

 

There a bunch of guys running plugged EGR coolers, it's very common to do. Especially for those that have to pass a visual emissions test.

Josh

 

all depends on how good the welder is. water tight with a mig is tuff for me.

 

I would add it's a far better idea to plug a known good cooler than to try and plug one that's already been compromised.

Josh

 

I didn't weld it myself, had one of our maintenance guys that's certified. He was content with the results. I'll still keep an eye on it.