Unknown shaking
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,123
Likes: 4
From: Baltimore
The indexing you are referring to, is to mark each part of the shaft with a center punch to reconnect them in the proper allignment from the factory. I do one mark on the yoke/shaft for the front and 2/3, etc for the rest of the shaft. That way the shaft retains the origional balance.
Also, some shafts will have a piece of steel welded to the side to correct balancing issues. Sometimes the fly off when rusty, causing a vibration. (Brake drums also have the same metal piece welded on the face area.)
Regards,
Dan
Also, some shafts will have a piece of steel welded to the side to correct balancing issues. Sometimes the fly off when rusty, causing a vibration. (Brake drums also have the same metal piece welded on the face area.)
Regards,
Dan
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,113
Likes: 1
From: Northern MN
Well the shaking is driving me crazy... Not any worse than it has been, but it's just so annoying.
I think I'm just going to run into a local exhaust shop tomorrow and have them replace the transmission mount for me so I don't have to wait until I can get access to air powered tools...
I think I'm just going to run into a local exhaust shop tomorrow and have them replace the transmission mount for me so I don't have to wait until I can get access to air powered tools...
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,113
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From: Northern MN
Yes I jacked up rear end and rotated tires by hand and listened and they sounded smooth. But if after I get the new transmission mount and longer driveshaft in, and it still shakes, then I'm going to just have the rear drums replaced anyways. I'm assuming they are original, pretty rusty.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 568
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From: Northern IL
The indexing you are referring to, is to mark each part of the shaft with a center punch to reconnect them in the proper allignment from the factory. I do one mark on the yoke/shaft for the front and 2/3, etc for the rest of the shaft. That way the shaft retains the origional balance.
Also, some shafts will have a piece of steel welded to the side to correct balancing issues. Sometimes the fly off when rusty, causing a vibration. (Brake drums also have the same metal piece welded on the face area.)
Regards,
Dan
Also, some shafts will have a piece of steel welded to the side to correct balancing issues. Sometimes the fly off when rusty, causing a vibration. (Brake drums also have the same metal piece welded on the face area.)
Regards,
Dan
It does not matter how you reattach the driveshaft. There's no "correct position", as long as the shaft slides onto the splines and bolt holes match, you're good. I tried it both ways after I got my driveshaft back from the shop from being re-balenced. I searched all over the net for that answer and got ver mixed results. Turns out there's no need for marking.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,113
Likes: 1
From: Northern MN
I think what he is also saying is to mark each yoke before taking them off to put new u-joints in. I forgot to do this, lol. Oh well.
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From: Mi'kma'ki
well i found my issue today.it was a proses of elimination.
first i removed the rear drive shaft,locked the front hubs in,and went for a drive in front wheel drive.still got the hop.
jacked up the front with rear shaft still out,and revved up good in drive and didn't see much wrong.
put rear shaft back in,and unlocked front hubs and did the same with the rear.could see a little bit of a hop,but nothing drastic to the eye.
removed duallies out back and ran a single bud on each side until i didn't get the shaking anymore,or at least got rid of the "problem" wheel.
junk non hub centric drw spacers i used on the old srw axle out back reamed the center holes out just enough to cause the bad hop.
so all 4 out back are questionable leading to the issue,but i found 2 major ones as the main source.
4 new rims ordered,and just put 2 new ones on front.so i'll have all 6 brand new and she'll ride smooth as silk after this and i bet my fuel economy shoots right back up where it belongs to boot.
first i removed the rear drive shaft,locked the front hubs in,and went for a drive in front wheel drive.still got the hop.
jacked up the front with rear shaft still out,and revved up good in drive and didn't see much wrong.
put rear shaft back in,and unlocked front hubs and did the same with the rear.could see a little bit of a hop,but nothing drastic to the eye.
removed duallies out back and ran a single bud on each side until i didn't get the shaking anymore,or at least got rid of the "problem" wheel.
junk non hub centric drw spacers i used on the old srw axle out back reamed the center holes out just enough to cause the bad hop.
so all 4 out back are questionable leading to the issue,but i found 2 major ones as the main source.
4 new rims ordered,and just put 2 new ones on front.so i'll have all 6 brand new and she'll ride smooth as silk after this and i bet my fuel economy shoots right back up where it belongs to boot.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Northern MN
I have disappointing news...
Took the truck into the exhaust shop, they put the new trans mount in for me.
Truck still shakes.
So I head to the auto parts store to pick up some new u-joints for the used driveshaft I bought. Installed those on the used driveshaft and swapped it in place of the custom driveshaft.
So afterwards the truck STILL shakes!
-
This is just crazy. It has GOT to be something with the rear differential or just the rear brake drums.
Has to be from the rear because when I'm driving, I can see the very front of the bed shaking side to side while looking in the driver's side mirror.
Took the truck into the exhaust shop, they put the new trans mount in for me.
Truck still shakes.
So I head to the auto parts store to pick up some new u-joints for the used driveshaft I bought. Installed those on the used driveshaft and swapped it in place of the custom driveshaft.
So afterwards the truck STILL shakes!
-
This is just crazy. It has GOT to be something with the rear differential or just the rear brake drums.
Has to be from the rear because when I'm driving, I can see the very front of the bed shaking side to side while looking in the driver's side mirror.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Mi'kma'ki
did the replacement/longer shaft cure that "clunk" ?
what im thinking is,that perhaps the t-case shaft bearing might be bad?
if the longer shaft cured the clunking,then at least it wasn't for nothing.it had to be taken care of,even if it didn't cure your vibration issue.it sure looked too short anyway,and looked like you were temping fate lol.so money well spent regardless really.
now what your describing however is a "sway" being that it's a side to side motion.how's the bearings in the rear axle?
what im thinking is,that perhaps the t-case shaft bearing might be bad?
if the longer shaft cured the clunking,then at least it wasn't for nothing.it had to be taken care of,even if it didn't cure your vibration issue.it sure looked too short anyway,and looked like you were temping fate lol.so money well spent regardless really.
now what your describing however is a "sway" being that it's a side to side motion.how's the bearings in the rear axle?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,113
Likes: 1
From: Northern MN
did the replacement/longer shaft cure that "clunk" ?
what im thinking is,that perhaps the t-case shaft bearing might be bad?
if the longer shaft cured the clunking,then at least it wasn't for nothing.it had to be taken care of,even if it didn't cure your vibration issue.it sure looked too short anyway,and looked like you were temping fate lol.so money well spent regardless really.
now what your describing however is a "sway" being that it's a side to side motion.how's the bearings in the rear axle?
what im thinking is,that perhaps the t-case shaft bearing might be bad?
if the longer shaft cured the clunking,then at least it wasn't for nothing.it had to be taken care of,even if it didn't cure your vibration issue.it sure looked too short anyway,and looked like you were temping fate lol.so money well spent regardless really.
now what your describing however is a "sway" being that it's a side to side motion.how's the bearings in the rear axle?
Yeah now I only have 3/4" of yoke sticking out of back of transfer case. Instead of 2". And the yoke shaft is about 5" long. So 4 1/4" sitting in the transfer case now opposed to 3". I would imagine that is better. You're right, maybe I should just stick with the longer driveshaft to be safe.
No idea on the rear bearings. Maybe I should start with drums next? I just don't know. The shaking seems to be a little bit suppressed now with the longer driveshaft and new transmission mount installed.
Another thing I noticed is when it shakes the rear end is also hopping up and down a bit, I can see it while looking at the bed. It is most noticeable at about 35 MPH. Starts getting goofy and bouncing around a bit. Also notice this at around 65 MPH. Then it can just be intermittent at other speeds.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,113
Likes: 1
From: Northern MN
Thanks for the suggestion, but as stated before the shake still occurs just the same as it did when I had the old tire and wheel combo on the truck.
Does anyone have any brand name recommendations or sources for rear brake drums? I have heard of people getting brand new drums that cause shaking because they are not even perfectly round from the factory....
Does anyone have any brand name recommendations or sources for rear brake drums? I have heard of people getting brand new drums that cause shaking because they are not even perfectly round from the factory....