Unknown shaking
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Northern MN
Alright, driveshaft has been ordered. The extra 1 1/4" that will be sitting in the transfer case yoke should eliminate this shaking. I'll have to put some new u-joints on this driveshaft and paint it. Shipping from Pennsylvania.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 101
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Here is a thought too. I noticed in the video that the transmission had some play when the engine was cranked. You might check your transmission mount and make sure it is still good. Also if you have a two piece shaft, I believe there is a bearing between the two shafts which can go bad and possibly cause shaking. I've had universal joints cause vibrations before too. Just wanted to throw that out there.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Oregon
If you watch the first video from under the driveshaft, once you start driving you can hear the wobbling. Sounds like metal on metal which leads me to believe the driveshaft was indeed too short. BUT, you said the wobble as there before the conversion didn't you? If that's the case the driveshaft may not solve your issue. Still a good idea to change it out, but may not fix the issue.
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Joined: May 2011
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From: Charm City
This is what I noticed, the trans was moving around a bit, especially considering the weight of the truck was being supported on the jack stands. I'd check the motor mounts and the trans mount.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Northern MN
Here is a thought too. I noticed in the video that the transmission had some play when the engine was cranked. You might check your transmission mount and make sure it is still good. Also if you have a two piece shaft, I believe there is a bearing between the two shafts which can go bad and possibly cause shaking. I've had universal joints cause vibrations before too. Just wanted to throw that out there.
If you watch the first video from under the driveshaft, once you start driving you can hear the wobbling. Sounds like metal on metal which leads me to believe the driveshaft was indeed too short. BUT, you said the wobble as there before the conversion didn't you? If that's the case the driveshaft may not solve your issue. Still a good idea to change it out, but may not fix the issue.
Thanks for the suggestion on the trans mount guys, didn't think of that. I will order a new one of those also.
I didn't notice how much the trans was moving when I would brake, etc. in the video.
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Joined: May 2011
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From: Charm City
I'd check just to be sure. Maybe I'm paranoid, I've just seen way too much shoddy work when it comes to repair shops, most won't do the 'right thing', only the most profitable thing.
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Posting Guru
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From: Northern MN
I checked the trans mount today and sure enough there is quite a bit of play in the mount when I push up on the tailshaft. So hopefully that and the longer driveshaft will fix this once and for all.
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From: Northern MN
Well I got both the new transmission mount and replacement driveshaft today. Attempted to replace old transmission mount, but the bolts going up into the transmission are stuck. They will not move. I do not have an impact wrench here at home, I did my 4x4 conversion at my stepdad's house 2 hours away that has air powered tools. Looks like this will be on hold until I get a chance to go up there...
Also didn't even bother putting the used driveshaft in the truck because the u-joints on it are absolutely shot. Need to get a couple new u-joints for that as well.
Also didn't even bother putting the used driveshaft in the truck because the u-joints on it are absolutely shot. Need to get a couple new u-joints for that as well.
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From: Mi'kma'ki
oh man.you can't just try putting in the drive shaft for us first? pretty please.lol.
i think my issue might be the trans mount too.
it would be very very interesting if you could just replace one thing at a time.the drive shaft goes in and comes right out so easy.it would be cool if it's not too much trouble.
i was going to start in on troubleshooting my hop today after i installed the last of my gauges/sending units but didn't have the time yet.
my theory;
i ran junk non hub centric DRW adapters in the rear before swapping in a true drw pickup axle.all this hoping around (until i found a tire shop to help me find the issue,and fill in around the center hole to keep the wheels centered) caused the trans mount to ware out,and thus the reason for my hop still now.
i was talking to my old man about this,and he had a good idea.he says to strap the trans down tight with a ratchet strap to test it.good idea right? hops worse at 20 mph,so i don't have to go but just a 1/10 of a mile to figure it out.
i think my issue might be the trans mount too.
it would be very very interesting if you could just replace one thing at a time.the drive shaft goes in and comes right out so easy.it would be cool if it's not too much trouble.
i was going to start in on troubleshooting my hop today after i installed the last of my gauges/sending units but didn't have the time yet.
my theory;
i ran junk non hub centric DRW adapters in the rear before swapping in a true drw pickup axle.all this hoping around (until i found a tire shop to help me find the issue,and fill in around the center hole to keep the wheels centered) caused the trans mount to ware out,and thus the reason for my hop still now.
i was talking to my old man about this,and he had a good idea.he says to strap the trans down tight with a ratchet strap to test it.good idea right? hops worse at 20 mph,so i don't have to go but just a 1/10 of a mile to figure it out.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 101
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On a separate note, it occurred to me if the transmission mount is bad, you might as well check the engine mounts too. The '92 Flareside I had, both went out at about 10-12 years of age. They are not hard to change but while you got the transmission mount out, it might be a little easier. I had the 4.9L inline 6 and one had completely broken and the other was hanging on by a little piece of rubber.
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Joined: May 2011
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From: Charm City
Well I got both the new transmission mount and replacement driveshaft today. Attempted to replace old transmission mount, but the bolts going up into the transmission are stuck. They will not move. I do not have an impact wrench here at home, I did my 4x4 conversion at my stepdad's house 2 hours away that has air powered tools. Looks like this will be on hold until I get a chance to go up there...
Also didn't even bother putting the used driveshaft in the truck because the u-joints on it are absolutely shot. Need to get a couple new u-joints for that as well.
Also didn't even bother putting the used driveshaft in the truck because the u-joints on it are absolutely shot. Need to get a couple new u-joints for that as well.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Northern MN
oh man.you can't just try putting in the drive shaft for us first? pretty please.lol.
i think my issue might be the trans mount too.
it would be very very interesting if you could just replace one thing at a time.the drive shaft goes in and comes right out so easy.it would be cool if it's not too much trouble.
i was going to start in on troubleshooting my hop today after i installed the last of my gauges/sending units but didn't have the time yet.
my theory;
i ran junk non hub centric DRW adapters in the rear before swapping in a true drw pickup axle.all this hoping around (until i found a tire shop to help me find the issue,and fill in around the center hole to keep the wheels centered) caused the trans mount to ware out,and thus the reason for my hop still now.
i was talking to my old man about this,and he had a good idea.he says to strap the trans down tight with a ratchet strap to test it.good idea right? hops worse at 20 mph,so i don't have to go but just a 1/10 of a mile to figure it out.
i think my issue might be the trans mount too.
it would be very very interesting if you could just replace one thing at a time.the drive shaft goes in and comes right out so easy.it would be cool if it's not too much trouble.
i was going to start in on troubleshooting my hop today after i installed the last of my gauges/sending units but didn't have the time yet.
my theory;
i ran junk non hub centric DRW adapters in the rear before swapping in a true drw pickup axle.all this hoping around (until i found a tire shop to help me find the issue,and fill in around the center hole to keep the wheels centered) caused the trans mount to ware out,and thus the reason for my hop still now.
i was talking to my old man about this,and he had a good idea.he says to strap the trans down tight with a ratchet strap to test it.good idea right? hops worse at 20 mph,so i don't have to go but just a 1/10 of a mile to figure it out.
The 1 u-joint has so much play in it I just do not want to risk driving it like that.
Have you tried pushing up on your transmission's tailshaft to see if the trans mount is bad? I did that before ordering the new mount and there is a fair amount of vertical play. Strapping it down sounds like a great idea to see if the hopping stops.
On a separate note, it occurred to me if the transmission mount is bad, you might as well check the engine mounts too. The '92 Flareside I had, both went out at about 10-12 years of age. They are not hard to change but while you got the transmission mount out, it might be a little easier. I had the 4.9L inline 6 and one had completely broken and the other was hanging on by a little piece of rubber.
I tried with all of my strength and could not get them to budge at all. Impact wrench is going to be the only way.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Northern MN
Well I got the broken u-joints off of the "new" driveshaft.
Might just order some new Spicer U-Joints to put on it. All I can get around here at the parts stores are Master Pro or Precision u-joints.
Might just order some new Spicer U-Joints to put on it. All I can get around here at the parts stores are Master Pro or Precision u-joints.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Mi'kma'ki
you know,that leads to another thing.i heard of people claiming that you need to make sure the new u-joints are indexed correctly.
well they can only go in one way.there are small caps and larger caps.so it's not like you have a choice.am i missing something?
it's a slip yoke into t-case.round splines,are round splines.can't matter where it slide in in a 360 rotation.it's all going to be the same.
out back you have two choices i suppose where ya can spin 180.maybe i should try doing that.hmmm.it's a big bounce at 15-20mph though.makes ya bounce up and down in the seat lol.faster it becomes a vibration.
well they can only go in one way.there are small caps and larger caps.so it's not like you have a choice.am i missing something?
it's a slip yoke into t-case.round splines,are round splines.can't matter where it slide in in a 360 rotation.it's all going to be the same.
out back you have two choices i suppose where ya can spin 180.maybe i should try doing that.hmmm.it's a big bounce at 15-20mph though.makes ya bounce up and down in the seat lol.faster it becomes a vibration.
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Posting Guru
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From: Northern MN
Yeah I know some trucks have 2 different cap sizes for the u-joints. Measured mine and all 4 caps on each end of the driveshaft are 1-1/16"
Yes I know how to remove/install a driveshaft. I have done this before lol but thanks.
Good luck with trying to figure yours out. It's a process of elimination. Start with the easy stuff first.
Yes I know how to remove/install a driveshaft. I have done this before lol but thanks.
Good luck with trying to figure yours out. It's a process of elimination. Start with the easy stuff first.