Hey guys. My battery light has been on for about a year now, and I'm just beginning to wonder why. It's starting to get cold around here and it's been taking longer to start. The other day it spitted and sputtered leaving the driveway and down my road and then it kicked in and started acting right - thinking this may be related to the fuel pump and not the battery, but I'd like to get the issue taken care of on both ends. I replaced one of my batteries (checked independent of the other one and was bad) about 8 months ago and my alternator was rebuilt about 12 months ago. The battery light has been on somewhere around 10 months. I'm just curious about both issues. The alternator seems to be putting out what it needs to (between 13.5 and 13.8V). I'm pretty sure there is 2 separate issues (the battery light being on), and the fuel pump starting to go, but could they be related to something electrical. How long do fuel pumps generally last?

Thanks for the insight in advance, guys.

 

I really don't think the fuel pump has anything to do with the battery light.Now for the battery light mine has been on for 2 yrs and sometimes it goes off too. So NO idea there. I hope you didn't replace your alt with one made in Mexico or China because if so it could be your alt. some guys have not had good luck with the cheap rebuilt alts. Now next time you replace a battery you should ALWAYS replace both at the same time. Just a rule of thumb. Some guy get away with just replacing 1 battery but I myself would never do that! Bite the bullet and buy 2 new batteries and save yourself some problems down the road. Because one old battery can take OUT a new one in no time. I learned my lesson years ago working on boats. So with that said it could even be a REAL battery issue.

And if you have 200k on your fuel pump you did good and it might just be time to replace it or you can wait until you have to be towed home. That's your call.

 

What Do You Suggest As a Good Replacement Fuel Pump? There Is An Airtex At Advanced For 115. I've Seen Mixed Reviews On Them Though. I Need It Cheap, but If Cheap Is just Too Poorly Made Then I'll UpGrade.

Big Question Though... Really Can't Afford To Replace If It's Not The Pump. DId That sound Like The Symptoms That Fit a Pump Going Out? Everything Is See Says If The Truck Is Running Fine Then It's Probably Not The Fuel Pump. I Don't Feel Like It's Running ToO Bad, But I'm Just Not Sure.

Could Filters Get Clogged Bad Enough To Starve a Pump Or Cause Rough Idle And SPitting And SPuttering? I Haven't Replaced My Inline Filter Or My Fuel bowl Filter In aBout a Year.

Thanks In Advance Guys

 

Well on the pump issue I would start by replacing fuel filters (BOTH) to start with. Then have you ever rebuilt you fuel bowl? Because I myself would think it would be filters or maybe FPR in fuel bowl might need to be replaced. But honestly it is hard to say without know what fuel pressure you are running? Do you have any codes from the pcm? What is the voltage at the fuel pump when it acts funny? Does it only do it in the morning?
Start with filters and some Diesel Kleen in the tank and let us know what's going on.

 

I had 265K on my fuel pump before I replaced it... and I did that because I didn't want to risk my new injectors.

I did a lot of homework on this and I ran into all kinds of problems with aftermarket pumps... even the ones from the same manufacturer as our stock pumps. These pumps were engineered for our trucks and built by Bosch. Riffraff Diesel carries these pumps for a reasonable price, that's where I bought mine.

As for the staggering truck in the morning, it could be a glowplug thing. Have you tried plugging the engine heater in overnight?

 

History of the truck (that I know of)...

When purchased at 204K - was given the receipt for the work to replace the glow plugs and relay (so I'm hoping that's not it - unless you maintenance those fairly regularly).

At 206K - realized there was no filter in my fuel bowl when the seal broke and I was dumping fuel all down the road while I was driving back to my church.

Around 210K - was having extremely rough time until it reached operating temperature - taken to Beans and they replaced the injectors because the o-rings were bad.

Around 215K - performed the in-tank fuel mods and added an inline fuel filter after the truck was running out of fuel frequently due to the fuel gauge that started to act up.

Around 220K - alternator went out and was taken to a local shop known to be quality and rebuilt.

Around 222K - battery light came on and was taken back to shop to test - they said nothing was wrong and it was possibly the belt slipping from being too worn.

Around 225K - one battery replaced after it was tested as bad (the other one still good) - battery light on the entire time. Starts better - but still not as quick as I would like.

Around 230K - transmission went out - was replaced with hd tranny at local dealer. They forgot to tighten the filter - leaked a lot of fluid (went into limp mode) - took back. Got it back - after a week or so, wouldn't go into reverse and went into limp mode - took back. After a couple weeks - back into limp mode - took back. Determined it was my chip not playing right with the computer - so they removed the chip, and reflashed the computer. The guy knew the guy at Beans, so he's taking it back up there to get reburned. Don't know if it'll mess with it again - but he seems to think that it will play right after being reburned. Don't fully understand it, but just hoping it works, because I would like my chip back and the dealership went out of business after the owner died. Also - around this time, it started taking longer for the wait to start to go off and longer cranking time.

Around 230K - dealership purchased and replaced a fuel bowl o-ring kit after my truck was leaking fuel from the drain valve on the bowl - fixed leak. Also leaking coolant from seal in main line below water pump - replaced seal - fixed leak (all I had was tap water at the time, so I'm gonna flush and replace this weekend)

Around 232K - driven for about 2K miles without chip - waiting on the guy to take the chip to Beans. Never have liked the stock settings obviously. It has felt sluggish ever since. Even feels more sluggish than when I was on the stock settings with my chip in - but it could just be the new shift settings - which I don't really think I care for.

Around 232K - taking longer to start - starting to get cold, and doesn't like starting after a weekend of not being driven. Cold doesn't seem to affect it too much though - just longer periods of not being started. Other battery could have possibly started to go bad? But if it read "really good" when tested only about 8-10 months ago and it had a brand new "partner" battery and the alternator was reading charging at 13.5-13.8 volts, doesn't seem like that's it.

Around 232K - Within the last 3 weeks... One incident - lower fuel level - leaving for work (slightly colder - not cold though), truck started and while leaving my driveway - didn't like the load, and struggled to make it to the top of my hill - let off the fuel, and idle for a few seconds cleared whatever it was up. Second incident - 3/4 fuel level - started and did the same thing leaving driveway. Cleared up at the top of the driveway and started going - running rough - tried more fuel - wouldn't go - power was intermittent and super sluggish to the end of my road. Let idle for a minute or so, and it cleared up, and no problems since.

My truck is also leaking a little oil for the past year or so which is a mess where I park. I would love to fix that, but I can't find where it's leaking. Any methods to help determine - engine is not very clean and there is fluid / residue all over parts in there?

The truck doesn't sound as smooth at idle as it did 10K miles ago either. It has an ever so slight (hardly noticeable) alternating rev - which feels like it could be the fuel pump kinda cutting in and out. Again - I'm only 28 and haven't been around vehicles with a lot of problems, so diagnosing something like all of this is difficult. I have a fair understanding of the way trucks work, and I went to school for engineering so I know how to think, but NOTHING replaces hands-on knowledge - something that if I keep this older truck around for much longer, I'm learning to develop really quick.

Thoughts?

 

I think your alternator should be around 14.6 volts. give or take, mine is. Maybe someone will chime in on the actual specs.

 

13.5 volts when?

Always replace batterys in pairs...

I would be concerned if a "quality rebuilt" alt was only putting out 13.5...

 

Everywhere I read says it should be between 13.6 and about 14.3 and you don't want them too high - so I don't really know if that's the problem. Do our trucks have voltage regulators that I can replace or are they inside the alternator? I'm wondering if just the brushes and bearings were replaced and not the voltage regulator? I'll check out the voltage again just to check and see, but that's what it's been the last 3 times I've tested it. When should I test it and how?

 

The regulator is on the back of the alt. Its black or grey plastic with the plug on it. Its highest reading will be after its started and the glow plugs have cycled off. I agree with Joe, I'd ? an alt. only putting out that voltage. Test it from the lug with the boot, to ground. Also a cool cheap tool is a volt meter that goes in your cig. lighter. You can "see" the glow plugs cycle. You'll also know your gpr is working.

 

After reading this - does what I described sound like it may be a fuel pump at all. I mean I will check / replace both filters, but if it's a fuel pump, what were you saying here? Which pumps were engineered for our truck specifically - the aftermarket ones or the oem ones? I mean Riff-raff is about $152 plus tax and shipping probably, and I can get the Airtex one for about $50 cheaper and I believe it has the same specifications as the Bosch - or there is this one... Bosch F81 U-9350-AA 0580464074 Ford Diesel Fuel Pump | eBay - that a guy recommended over at powerstrokenation?

And from what I understood, the glow plugs only help START the truck or no? I mean once it's started, they're not doing anything else, right - so if I'm driving down the road and it's still sputtering, then I can probably rule them out as the solution to that issue, right?

I'll check the alternator again tonight though and see what I can see.

 

The glow plugs are for starting, yes. With a volt meter, you'll see they come on for up to about 2min. Never actually timed them. I think you'll find as a lot of people do, that with few exceptions OEM parts are best. To much non OEM is Chinee, so decide for yourself. I'll pay more for stuff made in the USA.
Edit: yes I know all OEM is not made here, but its to OEM specs. I just go off on patriotic rants. You should hear me in person.

 

Tugly likes what he likes, but has no experance with anything else...

I KNOW your battery light has NOTHING TO DO WITH YOUR FUEL PUMP...

As far as replacing the fuel pump I have had good luck with the Walbro, they can be had for less then $100 shipped.

 

I know that too, but the fact that I grouped them together in this post may have thrown you off. They're 2 separate issues - spitting and sputtering after a starting a couple times, and my battery light being on. I should have maybe created 2 threads to keep them separate, but I hate being that needy guy that asks a bunch as if he hasn't search the entire internet for an answer. They seem to overlap at the time of ignition and shortly after though - when there is less voltage being put out by the weak battery or alternator issue and when that less voltage is heading to the fuel pump that most likely has some age on it. Just wondering if they could be related some how.

 

Your glow plug relay draws FAR more power then the fuel pump will...

Truck will run without the fuel pump even on...