Engine Conversion Crossmember
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Corbin, Ky
Engine Conversion Crossmember
Hello,
I have a question for all of you guys who have done this before. I am swapping my v8 Flathead in my 52 Ford for a Ford 302 and I am having to place a new crossmember in place to support the 302.
My question is, should the crossmember fit very snug? My new conversion crossmember is so snug(too long i'm assuming)that I can't even fit it into place for figuring out where my engine fits. Have you guys had an issue with the conversion crossmember being too long? Do I need to trim the crossmember down so that I can move it in to place? Just wandering and any help will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jon Preston
I have a question for all of you guys who have done this before. I am swapping my v8 Flathead in my 52 Ford for a Ford 302 and I am having to place a new crossmember in place to support the 302.
My question is, should the crossmember fit very snug? My new conversion crossmember is so snug(too long i'm assuming)that I can't even fit it into place for figuring out where my engine fits. Have you guys had an issue with the conversion crossmember being too long? Do I need to trim the crossmember down so that I can move it in to place? Just wandering and any help will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jon Preston
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 935
Likes: 2
From: Vancouver, WA
Well without knowing exactly what kinda cross member you're working with (a pic would always be appreciated 
) it's a little tough to tell. However from my experiences they can sometimes fit a little loose or a little tight. Most of the time they give you a little extra material just in case the frame is a little wider then spec. There are a little allowable tolerances built into these chassis' back in the day.... mainly called poor manufacturing...
Old technology ya know.
Anyhow, alot of these aftermarket cross members have a little adjust-ability in them. First thing I'd do is make sure your frame is straight and square before cutting on the cross member. So- if your frame is straight and square, I'd go ahead and remove a little material. (keep in mind that if you want to off-set or have your engine centered, material removal from particular sides is crucial)
) it's a little tough to tell. However from my experiences they can sometimes fit a little loose or a little tight. Most of the time they give you a little extra material just in case the frame is a little wider then spec. There are a little allowable tolerances built into these chassis' back in the day.... mainly called poor manufacturing... Old technology ya know. Anyhow, alot of these aftermarket cross members have a little adjust-ability in them. First thing I'd do is make sure your frame is straight and square before cutting on the cross member. So- if your frame is straight and square, I'd go ahead and remove a little material. (keep in mind that if you want to off-set or have your engine centered, material removal from particular sides is crucial)
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 787
Likes: 1
From: Prescott AZ.
Assuming that it is a tubular mount, position your engine where it needs to be with all accesories in place to include headers. In my 48 I installed Toyota power steering so I had to move the engine to the passenger side a bit. Make sure that the engine and tranmission is parellel to the frame rail then cut and weld the mount to fit.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,994
Likes: 3
From: Morgan Hill, CA
Are you using the stock solid axle?
When you set up the engine position, you will probably have to trim a little off the new tubular mount...but watch the clearance for the axle to the engine oil pan. The axle moves up whenever you hit a bump in the road.
Dan
When you set up the engine position, you will probably have to trim a little off the new tubular mount...but watch the clearance for the axle to the engine oil pan. The axle moves up whenever you hit a bump in the road.
Dan
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Corbin, Ky
Hello all,
I have successfully mounted my 302 into my frame. The frame was a stock 52 frame and the crossmember was a tubular style crossmember that had the end caps that you bolt to the frame. I have checked for clearance on my gearbox and everything else and all seems to be fine. I haven't welded the tube into the cap pieces yet because I am going to wait until I get my transmission bolted to the engine so I can get the right angle for the driveshaft. Once my transmission is in place I will weld the tube up, right now I have a bolt through the crossmember and end cap on one side to hold the engine in place to keep the tube from rolling.
I have successfully mounted my 302 into my frame. The frame was a stock 52 frame and the crossmember was a tubular style crossmember that had the end caps that you bolt to the frame. I have checked for clearance on my gearbox and everything else and all seems to be fine. I haven't welded the tube into the cap pieces yet because I am going to wait until I get my transmission bolted to the engine so I can get the right angle for the driveshaft. Once my transmission is in place I will weld the tube up, right now I have a bolt through the crossmember and end cap on one side to hold the engine in place to keep the tube from rolling.
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 318
Likes: 10
From: Metro Detroit, MI
anyone know of a good thread for the 302 or 351 swap? I will likely be swapping in a 351w. I have seen a few but a step by step or one with plenty of pics would be awesome.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,994
Likes: 3
From: Morgan Hill, CA
You could search on it....I don't recall seeing an end to end swap thread.
There are a lot of threads that are bits and pieces. Here are a few of the key points to look for:
1. Pan clearance to the axle or if you go with an IFS, clearance to the cross member
2. Dealing with the crossmember that ties the frame together at the cab mounts...you shouldn't just remove that without adding something else because the weight of the cab will try to spread your frame out
3. Clearance for steering...some guys offset the engine over to the passenger side by an inch to get more room for steering and exhaust
4. Drive line angle
5. Engine leveling
6. Clearance from the bell housing to the firewall...pay attention to the other end of the engine because if you put too much clearance in there won't be room up front for a fan.
Hopefully, other guys will chime in, but you can also look at my photo galleries...I did a 351w swap, so maybe some of the pics will make you think of something.
It's a good idea to do what you're doing....basically mock everything up before you weld anything in place with more than a tack weld.
Dan
There are a lot of threads that are bits and pieces. Here are a few of the key points to look for:
1. Pan clearance to the axle or if you go with an IFS, clearance to the cross member
2. Dealing with the crossmember that ties the frame together at the cab mounts...you shouldn't just remove that without adding something else because the weight of the cab will try to spread your frame out
3. Clearance for steering...some guys offset the engine over to the passenger side by an inch to get more room for steering and exhaust
4. Drive line angle
5. Engine leveling
6. Clearance from the bell housing to the firewall...pay attention to the other end of the engine because if you put too much clearance in there won't be room up front for a fan.
Hopefully, other guys will chime in, but you can also look at my photo galleries...I did a 351w swap, so maybe some of the pics will make you think of something.
It's a good idea to do what you're doing....basically mock everything up before you weld anything in place with more than a tack weld.
Dan
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Corbin, Ky
I have a question for you guys that have done the 302 swap.
Getting the Driveline Angle.
What steps should I take to get the driveline angle?
What angle am I looking for typically? My truck is the stock 52 frame, 302 with a 90's 5 speed ford truck transmission.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Thank you,
Jon Preston
Getting the Driveline Angle.
What steps should I take to get the driveline angle?
What angle am I looking for typically? My truck is the stock 52 frame, 302 with a 90's 5 speed ford truck transmission.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Thank you,
Jon Preston
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,294
Likes: 1,055
From: NM
You want the driveline angle (crankshaft and trans output shaft) to match the angle of the rear axle pinion. I measured mine as part of putting a 9" in and found both were at 4 degrees. Usually I hear that the spec is 3 degrees, but that's what I measured.
Refyred
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,083
Likes: 12
From: Southern Nevada
driveline phasing
Here is an web site You should check all of johns articles they are excellent.
John Niolon's 1953 F-100 Ford Truck Page
Good luck in your quest
John Niolon's 1953 F-100 Ford Truck Page
Good luck in your quest
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