So to continue my journey with my dieseling issues I have been working all the possibilities out. Since I moved to Texas it is much worse here than before. I went over timing, carb setting, and Idle again to no help. So I started on the carbon deposits and hot spots but figured that isn't it as it has less than a thousand miles on it but went down two temps on plugs and seafoam flushed it to again no help. Then I began to wonder if it was an electrical or ignition issues as it seems easier to stall out in drive when the lights gps and stereo are on. I tested a possible ignition hot possibility by testing the coil while it was dieseling and it shuts off when removing the coil to dizzy wire confirming that I didn't believe it was hot spots. So I wanted to check if it had the alternator back charge feedback I heard about before so I started truck up and shut down and it dieseled. Took the belt off the alternator and started truck and shut down normal about 3 times. Put the belt back on and fired it up tried to shutdown and it dieseled so I figured that's it.

Now the question to you all for help is where do I go from here to figure out why the alternator is continuing to keep the truck running. I couldn't find anything on here or online so I am all ears to anyone who knows these type of things. Thanks again in advance!

 

Disregard I found the issue. After years of being rewired by lord knows who I found a splice that someone took off the alternator for the choke wire and spliced it into another hot coming off the voltage regulator. It has a 8 volt from the the alternator to a 12 volt coming off the regulator. Now the volt gauge in the truck that is into my fuse box shows 13ish volts. Let me know if this is an issue with it being over 12 volts.

 

Oh forgot the biggest part the spliced wire was running through the voltage regulator to the ignition wire is why it was still giving power to keep the truck running.

 

Your system should have about 13-14.5v while running, depending on the rpm, and the amount of loads on the system.

You have just found out why the ignition switch seems so complicated. Some people cannot understand why they cannot just put a single toggle switch to take place of the original ignition switch, and this is one of the reasons, the multiple poles(or switches) inside the factory ignition switch keeps this from happening. I am glad you found it, the first thing I was going to ask was had the ignition switch been re-wired. Of course you would have said no, but luckily you found the culprit under the hood that was bypassing the ignition switch.

 

Your not lying! it was the ignition wire that runs back to the switch in the cab then back to the solenoid but on the regulator. The fact that it is the one year wonder 1980 wiring doesn't help either. Thanks though!