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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

PLEASE HELP!! Voltage Regulator Burned Up

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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 04:37 PM
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PLEASE HELP!! Voltage Regulator Burned Up

My only mode of transportation is my 63 F100 and the voltage regulator is smoked.( My mustang is down as I'm swapping engines ).

Here's what happened. I just rewired the truck and have charging problems. I used the 64 wiring diagram for alternator hook up. At first I neglected to wire up the 'I' terminal on the new voltage regulator as I was going to bypass the generator light for now. As a result I was running off the battery and after a while it died on me. OK, fine, I then attached the 'I' terminal to the switched 12 V ignition switch (center terminal) and the battery was getting 14V, so it was getting charged. I drove it around yesterday and all was good.

Today, I was driving and it died on me. When I popped the hood, the voltage regulator was smoking and it was hot. While pulled over, I had key in the 'on' position, the voltage regulator got hot again.

Please help, what am I missing??

David.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 07:52 PM
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camperspecial65
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Since you mention both generator and alternator...which does your truck have in it now...If Im not mistaken, a generator regulator cant be used on alternator rigs and vice versa...whats the amperage of the alternator...assuming thats what is in there...


- cs65
 
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 09:42 PM
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I have an alternator, sorry for confusion. I think I have found the problem. I have an intermittent short with the replacement ignition switch I installed recently. This is why it worked yesterday and then all of the sudden it went bad. I have only driven it a handful of times since redoing all of the wiring.

I disconnected the battery terminals and then measured the resistance across + and ground with the key in the on position (you have to disconnect the feed to the instrument panel as well or else you get fuel gauge resistance, water temp resistance etc.). Then by jiggling the ignition switch, I could get a resistance between + and chassis ground to come and go.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 11:44 AM
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OK, so an update......

The ignition switch is fine. Apparently, when you don't install the generator light, you have to remove the 'S' terminal from the voltage regulator and apply a switched 12V to the S terminal on the voltage regulator from the ignition and remove the 'I' terminal wire. Basically take move the wire from the 'I' terminal to the 'S' terminal and don't hook up the 'STA' connection on the alternator. I also burned my coil, so I am working through that issue (See my other post).

I found this info on a kit car website:

Alternator wiring with and without the dash warning light

Thanks, David
 
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Old Aug 25, 2020 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by carprojects
OK, so an update......

The ignition switch is fine. Apparently, when you don't install the generator light, you have to remove the 'S' terminal from the voltage regulator and apply a switched 12V to the S terminal on the voltage regulator from the ignition and remove the 'I' terminal wire. Basically take move the wire from the 'I' terminal to the 'S' terminal and don't hook up the 'STA' connection on the alternator. I also burned my coil, so I am working through that issue (See my other post).

I found this info on a kit car website:

Alternator wiring with and without the dash warning light

Thanks, David
Man. I just want to thank you for this. Not sure if you'll level see this. But I drive a 64 ford f100 with a 68 460 from a Lincoln. My gas gauge stopped working so I swapped cluster panels to one from a 66 , a few days later, thought my alternator went out. Swapped alternators, a couple days later the resistor wire from the ignition to the coil went out. Swapped it for a regular wire and a ballast resistor. Been running like **** but it runs. Today I swapped my regulator, cleaned my plugs, coil contacts everything that applies spark whole the key is in the run position. Still running ****ty. Look over and the 5 hour old is smoking. Now if I'm right. Not only is my regulator wired like the one with the shift light but I'm certain that relay is overloading my ignition in turn overloading my run wire. Thanks. If I'm right I'll have all these issues solved by morning.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2020 | 07:07 PM
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ibuzzard
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Necro-posting , Bro, thread is ten years old. OP hasn’t posted or even logged in since 2011.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2020 | 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Cookin81
Man. I just want to thank you for this. Not sure if you'll level see this. But I drive a 64 ford f100 with a 68 460 from a Lincoln. My gas gauge stopped working so I swapped cluster panels to one from a 66 , a few days later, thought my alternator went out. Swapped alternators, a couple days later the resistor wire from the ignition to the coil went out. Swapped it for a regular wire and a ballast resistor. Been running like **** but it runs. Today I swapped my regulator, cleaned my plugs, coil contacts everything that applies spark whole the key is in the run position. Still running ****ty. Look over and the 5 hour old is smoking. Now if I'm right. Not only is my regulator wired like the one with the shift light but I'm certain that relay is overloading my ignition in turn overloading my run wire. Thanks. If I'm right I'll have all these issues solved by morning.
Quit smokin what you are cooking bro. Slow Down.
 
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