Just a heads up to forum members here who like to buy Motorcraft Parts.

I just purchased two FG-44-B Fuel filters for my 1981 300-6.

One was NOS, Made in the USA had the correct number of hoses, and most importantly the Correct filter. Motorcraft FG-44-B printed right on the filter, made in USA.

The other was new, Made in China, was missing one of the hoses in the box, and had the incorrect fuel filter in the box. The incorrect filter had Motorcraft FG-44-B printed on it as well, Made in China...

Now I have the fun of returning the incorrect fuel filter, and trying to explain that it's incorrect, yet has the correct part number on it.

Picture of both filters...





I've also noticed that Motorcraft has more than doubled the MSRP on the Distributor Cap and Rotor for my 300.

One Year Ago:

DH-367-B: Distributor Cap: List $39.08
DR-379-A: Rotor: $7.89

As of 10-6-2012...

DH-367-B: Distributor Cap: $84.92
DR-379-A: Rotor: $55.00

I like buying Motorcraft because they tend to last at least 4 times longer than the aftermarket equivelent. Why I would spend $40 on a Cap, over the $15 for a aftermarket one because it pays for itself in the long run. However with the increase in MSRP of aproximately 52% on the Cap and 430% on the Rotor, they can let them sit on the shelves for those prices.

Couple that with the fact I just got the wrong fuel filter, mislabled in the box, stating it was made in China, my confidence in Motorcraft has suddenly taken a huge nose dive.

Never thought I would say, "Buyer Beware" about Motorcraft...

Thought you guys should be made aware of some of the things I've been seeing lately...

 

It used to be that when American auto parts Manufacturers first(late 70's,early 80's) went overseas(China) they claimed to have had their parts built to their specs,under their watchful eyes and control.Sadly,that doesn't seem to be the case anymore.

 

China manufacturing companies will get away with passing on their JUNK

when every they can. I have seen this happen with China build kitchen

cabinets. The early stuff looked great, the last cabinets I installed were

total JUNK!

WHY SHOULD CHINESE COMPANIES CARE?

They made their money, mostly up front, theyʻll just move on to the next

order.

TO THE BIG COMPANIES OUT THERE, STOP SENDING YOUR PRODUCTS


TO BE BUILT OVERSEAS! AMERICA CAN DO IT BETTER AND HAVE

PRIDE DOING IT.

RANT OVER.

I hope the NON OEM part still works for you. Keeping it as a back up

is always a good idea.

 

That's one of the reasons I open and inspect all parts before paying for them. I've even seen many used parts in boxes. Previous customer got away with returning old parts because the counter person didn't check them.

I know exactly what you mean about the prices. I checked on a fan shroud a little while back. When you could get it, it was only $40-50. Now, since it's obsolete, it's a little over $200.

Also try to stay away from chinese parts but sometimes don't have a choice.

 

I started checking every oil filter that I buy too.

Mainly to see that they are not crushed or dented.

I donʻt know if it matters if they are damaged, but checking only

takes seconds.

 

Yes, I usually look in the boxes as well. But you can't do that going through online vendors untill the part gets delivered...

However they are sending me a replacement, I'm just hoping it's not the same type of screwup. Hopeing that it was just one odd "wrong" filter that got put into the wrong "bin", marked then boxed, instead of a whole batch of them being wrong. If you get my meaning.

As for oil filters, it depends on how bad they are dented/damaged as it can restrict the oil flow if it's severe. Still I wouldn't use a dented one even if it wasn't really badly damaged etc...

 

Wow, an inline filter versus a threaded carburetor filter. Huge difference there for sure.

Their prices are way out of reason. When the camshaft synchronizer went bad in my Ranger, I had to pay $189 for a brand new one. A camshaft synchronizer is just half of a distributor, yet they charge complete distributor pricing for it.

 

OT

You had to replace the whole part? Or is the sensor a non replaceable

part like other vehicles?

That is surely expensive.

 

I had to replace the entire camshaft synchronizer. The reason it went bad is because the oil flow route to the internal bearings is a poor design. The bearings prematurely wear out, and they *sometimes* start to chirp. Once the bearings wear out enough, the internal shaft can lift up, and make contact with the camshaft position sensor that is mounted right on top of the synchronizer. If the synchro shaft gets caught in the CPS and abruptly stops, then the oil pump drive gear teeth can shear off. The synchro shaft will stop turning, and so will the oil pump since the synchro shaft turns the oil pump shaft. Loss of oil pressure occurs, and stop goes the motor.

Luckily, I've heard plenty of Rangers with failing camshaft synchronizers before, so when my cam sync started to chirp, I knew what it was. I didn't take any chances, even though I was on my way to work, I turned around and drove straight to Ford. Bought the cam sync, drove home, and replaced it. It was nerve racking driving to Ford because halfway there the cam sync started to make grinding sounds as well, which scared me half to death. I had my eye on the oil pressure gauge the whole time. Mine went so quickly that I think it probably would have stripped the gear within another half an hour.

The problem with the cam synchronizers is that you don't know when they'll fail. Some fail at 70,000 miles, others at 145,000 miles. Mine failed at 53,000 miles. My Uncle has a Ranger, and his camshaft synchronizer has been chirping for over a year now. He only takes the truck to the dump though, which is a 6 minute drive. That's probably the only reason his hasn't completely failed yet.

Oh, and don't think this is just a Ford problem. I know for sure Jeeps ran Cam Syncs as well, with the same early failure issues. I'm not sure if Jeep charges as much for their cam syncs though.

 

The amount of time and energy i put into researching parts and fighting with the guy behind the counter is ridiculous. If i go to advance-auto ask for Part No. C194 then i want Part No. C194 not Part No. C194P or Part No. C194s or Part No. C194r.. Why would i want a distributor cap with aluminum terminals when i can have one with brass terminals for the same price. AA carries BWD "Select" parts which are decent parts but they never have the "Select" parts in stores, then they just try to pawn off these low quality parts on you.. Why would anyone even make a distributor cap with aluminum terminals and also make one with brass terminals and offer them for about the same price and why dont the stores ever stock the good ones? Maybe because they can advertise lower prices and make more profit at the same time by doing this lol.

 

I got an update for you guys about the FG-44-B filter. Ford Part Number D3FZ-9155-B. It's not good news and it effects a lot of Ford vehicles.

It seems the whole batch of Motorcraft FG-44-B fuel filters that were made in china has the incorrect filter inside the box.

The Chinese made filter will be a threaded type filter on one end with a hose fitting on the other. It will have Motorcraft FG-44-B printed on the filter. The filter still comes with four hose clamps and two hoses, one long and one short in the box. The incorrectly marked filter can only use but one hose.

Of course like I've said before, the actual FG-44-B filter is a inline filter, with two hose fittings, with the attaching hardware, (Hoses and clamps).

Ford has decided to discontinue selling the FG-44-B filter. (I wonder why) The FG-44-A filter, (which does not include the hardware has been discontinued for a long time now.) This problem does not include made in USA or Mexico FG-44-B NOS filters. If you buy this filter NOS, make sure to have the seller check the filter inside, before purchase.

So to reinterate, a whole batch of Motorcraft FG-44-B filters that were made in China are incorrect and will not work within application. Ford #D3FZ-9155-B

This effects numerous Ford, Lincoln and Mercury vehicles between the following years, 1971-1982 including the F-series and Bronco.

Nobody reproduces the FG-44-B filter with hardware and hoses of the correct length. However the FG-44-A filter without hoses and attaching hardware is reproduced.

WIX: 33027 (The one I recommend from now on) You must buy the hoses and two clamps as only two clamps are included.

Fram: G3515 Four clamps and two hoses are included, one is too short for application however.

AC Delco: GF454 (no information)

Just a heads up about this problem if you use Motorcraft Products...