need buying advice
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From: whitehouse tx
I got nothing on fordguys reply.all I know is he does drive it.anything beyond pop starting or using starter fluid is beyond me.I never owned a deisel or worked on one so these hpop etc I have no clue how to trouble shoot in short time if I go look at it
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
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From: Orrville, Ohio
If you go look at it here are a couple things I would suggest.
Have him show you how he starts it and then let it idle. If the HPOP is weak (which $500 would buy you a new upgraded HPOP called a T-500) it won't idle smooth. Then take it out and drive it. Pay special attention to power levels at the top of the RPM band.
When you get back let it sit and, with his permission, let it free rev to around 3,000 RPM. LET THE RPM CLIMB SLOWLY and look for a hesitation between 1800 and 2300 RPM. If you get a stumble in that range somewhere you may be in luck and it may just need injector o-rings which is about $90 in parts and you can do it yourself in a day.
After that to test for low compression (which is generally accompanied by high blow-by) get out and let the engine idle (again do this with the engine warm). Take the oil fill cap off and flip it over, then set it over the oil fill hole. Watch the cap. If it floats on air escaping the valve cover, you have a serious blow-by issue and the engine is going to need a major rebuild. If it just kind of rattles around on there from the vibration of the engine, you probably(...probably) DON'T have a compression issue.
Take the air intake hose off where it connects to the turbo. This generally makes it necessary to remove the aluminum elbow that the hose attaches to (you will need a shallow 10mm socket and a ratchet for this -- or a wrench if you like it old school). Look down into the turbo and observe what the impeller wheel looks like. Are the edges of the wheel sharp or do they look rounded over? Does the wheel look shiny or dull? Does is look smooth or jagged? Does it look fresh and clean or like it has been sand blasted? What you're looking for here is evidence that the engine has been sucking dirty air. There was a design problem with the air box on some of these trucks and they could suck dirty, dusty air. Then there is the ever present K&N conundrum. Don't put a K&N on one of these trucks. There are cheaper, much better alternatives.
When he shuts the truck off listen for a distinct "clack, clack, clack" sound coming from under the floor. That could be a sign that the truck's original dual mass) flywheel is on its way out. That's not a cheap repair, but if you do it with quality parts and don't hot rod the truck, you will never have to do it again.
That's a quick (or not so quick) rundown of a few things to look at.
I could post some more, but I don't think you want to be there all day! LOL.
Good luck man.
Have him show you how he starts it and then let it idle. If the HPOP is weak (which $500 would buy you a new upgraded HPOP called a T-500) it won't idle smooth. Then take it out and drive it. Pay special attention to power levels at the top of the RPM band.
When you get back let it sit and, with his permission, let it free rev to around 3,000 RPM. LET THE RPM CLIMB SLOWLY and look for a hesitation between 1800 and 2300 RPM. If you get a stumble in that range somewhere you may be in luck and it may just need injector o-rings which is about $90 in parts and you can do it yourself in a day.
After that to test for low compression (which is generally accompanied by high blow-by) get out and let the engine idle (again do this with the engine warm). Take the oil fill cap off and flip it over, then set it over the oil fill hole. Watch the cap. If it floats on air escaping the valve cover, you have a serious blow-by issue and the engine is going to need a major rebuild. If it just kind of rattles around on there from the vibration of the engine, you probably(...probably) DON'T have a compression issue.
Take the air intake hose off where it connects to the turbo. This generally makes it necessary to remove the aluminum elbow that the hose attaches to (you will need a shallow 10mm socket and a ratchet for this -- or a wrench if you like it old school). Look down into the turbo and observe what the impeller wheel looks like. Are the edges of the wheel sharp or do they look rounded over? Does the wheel look shiny or dull? Does is look smooth or jagged? Does it look fresh and clean or like it has been sand blasted? What you're looking for here is evidence that the engine has been sucking dirty air. There was a design problem with the air box on some of these trucks and they could suck dirty, dusty air. Then there is the ever present K&N conundrum. Don't put a K&N on one of these trucks. There are cheaper, much better alternatives.
When he shuts the truck off listen for a distinct "clack, clack, clack" sound coming from under the floor. That could be a sign that the truck's original dual mass) flywheel is on its way out. That's not a cheap repair, but if you do it with quality parts and don't hot rod the truck, you will never have to do it again.
That's a quick (or not so quick) rundown of a few things to look at.
I could post some more, but I don't think you want to be there all day! LOL.
Good luck man.
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