So I suspect everyone knows what I'm gunna ask, and it's been talked about, but I'm new to the diesel thing.

So I got my NA 7.3 running ok now, but what's next? It don't have all that much power, probably as much as I guess it should. It drives ok and don't smoke at all but my 460 beats it. So what's the next cheap tricks for more power? Sence it don't smoke I guess more fuel is in order, I've been told crank up the IP, ok how? I got another IP on a truck that had a banks turbo, safe to assume it's a better one? How do I know, can and should I swap it in to my NA truck? That truck hasn't run in years, odds the IP is good?

 

Well i'm just as new to this as you are, but from what i've read...
Just because the other truck has an aftermarket turbo doesn't mean theres a fancy after market IP on it, it may be turned up a little more than yours but it wont be anything special in my opinion. like i said im new too.
Most people say if your looking for more power in these old idi's,
Wider exhaust, 4" or 5 some people say.
Turbo it
ram air intake.
That's about all i've seen. good luck, im sure more experienced people will chime in

 

nothing will make a huge difference except a turbo. You can remove the "soup bowl" from the air cleaner. It cuts down on intake noise but restricts airflow. Be careful with turning up the fuel unless you get a pyrometer. You can melt pistons.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...idi-build.html

Here ya go.... educate thyself

 

By my understanding diesel power is all about utilising as much fuel as you can before something breaks or melts. That said isn't the simple fact that I never produce any smoke proof that I'm underfueled. That no matter how much air I move, huge exhaust, intake, or huge turbo, I'll never make more power then I have now until I get more fuel in? So at this point air flow mods are pointless?

Could the same be said for exhaust temps, yes I should get a pyrometer, actually I already have one that I use to tune spark engines, just need to get some fitings in the exhaust. But still shouldn't I see smoke before I get to a point of causing damage. Most of all on a NA engine?

Also, at some point I think FORDF250HDXLT posted a list of stock IP part numbers. Are these numbers on the IP somewhere so I can figure out if the one on the other truck is bigger? Or is it really just settings and all DB2 IPs are the same? I really need to read thru his threads.

My first goal here is just usable power, I know I'll never have monster power until I get a turbo on it. But for now I need to get enough power to really use the truck without putting a lot of time and money in it. Seams to me tweaking the IP is the place to start yes?

 

Heres a article I found with a quick search on turning up the fuel. 1987 Ford F250 Buildup Stanadyne Db2 Injection Pump Photo 15

 

Uhm yeah, no s**t I've read that, but how about NOT doing all that work and NOT spending all that money, and NOT assuming I already know and have done all that is assumed in that thread.

Edit, found that list, it's the first post here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ning-info.html

 

Found this in a post by FORDF250HDXLT "Fuel injection pump adjustment article"

 

If your pump has never been adjusted then you'd be ok turning it up a little. It doesn't take much though. Without a turbo, the factory pump if turned up too much can make enough fuel to do serious harm to your pistons.

 

But does removing the soup bowl actually do anything? Does anyone have actual proof of a benefit?

 

First things first, how many miles on the current pump and injectors? A timing adjustment may make way more difference in performance than cranking up a tired pump. A pump rebuild and new injectors may also be well overdue. Overfueling (making smoke) is unburnt fuel, and doesn't create power. Burning it does. Burning it at the right time in an efficient manner makes more power.

 

I've read a lot about that particular mod, and the conclusion I've drawn is that it does nothing at all other than give you something to put in your signature.

A true cold air intake would probably give you more benefit.

 

I'd weigh in if I knew what you're talking about. Are you refering to the air filter housing with the piping to the gril and all that? Or about just putting on an open filter?
I have no idea how many miles are on anything with this truck. I bought it cheap, not running, no tires, batteries or fuel. I know the PO had it at least 6 years, that the guy he got it from said it had an engine rebuild, but he doesn't really believe it. And I think it's very unlikely the PO has done much with the IP or injectors but I can ask. Hell he might chime in he's an FTE member. He posted this in '09 " As far as the pump and injectors, they should have been replaced durring the full rebuild less than 5000 miles ago. Timing was set when the engine was put back in and the return lines are probally of 89 vintage."

I don't have the time or money right now for a pump rebuild and injectors. Have other priorities, just need to get out of it what I can for the moment and asses how good of a driver this truck can be with little investment. Then I'll decide what to put in it. I did however look at the injectors when I removed them to replace the return O-rings, grey paint but I didn't see anything to indicate problems.

I have no interest in smoke, it's just blowing money out the tailpipe, but I do need enough power to make this truck usable. And it not smoking at all is a big clue as to why it don't have much power yes?

Timing vs turning up the pump, I'm certainly only going to make one small change at a time. It rattles pretty good, and timing sounds like it's way easier for me to mess up while turning up the pump will gain more results faster. I read that you can tell alot about the timing by the rattle, now the sound of this engine is new to me. But I do know that it rattles more with the cold advance on and still rattles pretty good at hot idle.

I'll probably mess with it tonight or this weekend, right now I gotta take off to get it licenced now that it runs. And it's got no front bumper, no rear lights and the turn signals don't flash, so that's higher on the to do list.

 

If you take off the stock air cleaner lid, there is a "bowl" attached to the bottom of it. The mod is to just cut it off. I doubt anyone ever did back to back dyno runs, but from what I understand, it is a noise emissions device and somewhat restricts airflow.

 

Nothing like that on mine, and what there is looks stock.