Help Me Please
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Ok, LMC. Dad's truck has the same type of trim but it is aluminum and some of it is bent. So, I'll either have to find replacements or go with what you have.
Good job on the choke. You sure learn quickly!
Good job on the choke. You sure learn quickly!
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 698
Likes: 0
From: Norman, Ar
I have one piece of the aluminum trim gone, Left rear.
I was looking at the stainless from LMC...
What pieces are bent on your truck, Gary..
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
I'll have to check, but I know the passenger's side rear one is obliterated - along with the bed. I'm thinking the driver's side front is bent as well. I'll look tomorrow to confirm, but it is the stuff right on the wheel opening.
That stainless looks good on Demeron's truck, but I'm not sure whether the shiny stainless or the aluminum trim would be best on Dad's truck. And, another problem I have is the upper trim - it is the stuff with a rubber strip in it. Haven't seen replacements for it.
That stainless looks good on Demeron's truck, but I'm not sure whether the shiny stainless or the aluminum trim would be best on Dad's truck. And, another problem I have is the upper trim - it is the stuff with a rubber strip in it. Haven't seen replacements for it.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 698
Likes: 0
From: Norman, Ar
I'll have to check, but I know the passenger's side rear one is obliterated - along with the bed. I'm thinking the driver's side front is bent as well. I'll look tomorrow to confirm, but it is the stuff right on the wheel opening.
That stainless looks good on Demeron's truck, but I'm not sure whether the shiny stainless or the aluminum trim would be best on Dad's truck. And, another problem I have is the upper trim - it is the stuff with a rubber strip in it. Haven't seen replacements for it.
That stainless looks good on Demeron's truck, but I'm not sure whether the shiny stainless or the aluminum trim would be best on Dad's truck. And, another problem I have is the upper trim - it is the stuff with a rubber strip in it. Haven't seen replacements for it.
The pieces of the wheel well trim I took off are all good. The left rear is the only one missing..
I am going with the stainless as I have chrome wheel.
I think yours would look good with the aluminum trim because you have the aluminum wheels....
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
No score on the upper trim either..Mine just glued on...Not going back after paint..
The pieces of the wheel well trim I took off are all good. The left rear is the only one missing..
I am going with the stainless as I have chrome wheel.
I think yours would look good with the aluminum trim because you have the aluminum wheels....
The pieces of the wheel well trim I took off are all good. The left rear is the only one missing..
I am going with the stainless as I have chrome wheel.
I think yours would look good with the aluminum trim because you have the aluminum wheels....
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
A word of advise on those wheellip mouldings.
I had a guy run into the back end of me and damage one of those mouldings. Went and bought a NOS one from the dealer. When it arrived it was turned into a pretzel and in worse shape than the original. The package was insured so got another one, same thing happened. It took three packages to get me one without damage to it. When you are talking about New Old Stock parts, it is a crime to have them damaged in shipping, when less than 6 NOS pieces survive in the world.
My advise would be to package them in a large crush resistant box with reinforcement cardboard inside for extra protection and mark fragile on the box.
Would hate to see them turned into "pretzels", etc...
As for the 1980-1984 upper metal mouldings with vinyl trim, I have seen those in the yards recently, what sections do you need? I'll see what I can find.
I had a guy run into the back end of me and damage one of those mouldings. Went and bought a NOS one from the dealer. When it arrived it was turned into a pretzel and in worse shape than the original. The package was insured so got another one, same thing happened. It took three packages to get me one without damage to it. When you are talking about New Old Stock parts, it is a crime to have them damaged in shipping, when less than 6 NOS pieces survive in the world.
My advise would be to package them in a large crush resistant box with reinforcement cardboard inside for extra protection and mark fragile on the box.
Would hate to see them turned into "pretzels", etc...
As for the 1980-1984 upper metal mouldings with vinyl trim, I have seen those in the yards recently, what sections do you need? I'll see what I can find.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
A word of advise on those wheellip mouldings.
I had a guy run into the back end of me and damage one of those mouldings. Went and bought a NOS one from the dealer. When it arrived it was turned into a pretzel and in worse shape than the original. The package was insured so got another one, same thing happened. It took three packages to get me one without damage to it. When you are talking about New Old Stock parts, it is a crime to have them damaged in shipping, when less than 6 NOS pieces survive in the world.
My advise would be to package them in a large crush resistant box with reinforcement cardboard inside for extra protection and mark fragile on the box.
Would hate to see them turned into "pretzels", etc...
As for the 1980-1984 upper metal mouldings with vinyl trim, I have seen those in the yards recently, what sections do you need? I'll see what I can find.
I had a guy run into the back end of me and damage one of those mouldings. Went and bought a NOS one from the dealer. When it arrived it was turned into a pretzel and in worse shape than the original. The package was insured so got another one, same thing happened. It took three packages to get me one without damage to it. When you are talking about New Old Stock parts, it is a crime to have them damaged in shipping, when less than 6 NOS pieces survive in the world.
My advise would be to package them in a large crush resistant box with reinforcement cardboard inside for extra protection and mark fragile on the box.
Would hate to see them turned into "pretzels", etc...
As for the 1980-1984 upper metal mouldings with vinyl trim, I have seen those in the yards recently, what sections do you need? I'll see what I can find.
Sorry for hijacking this thread, but I would like to answer this. First, the short answer is that I need essentially every piece of the upper molding since the rubber has either shrunk or come loose on the ends and been trimmed. In other words, none of the rubber is good, but then you might not be able to find pieces with good rubber either so maybe I can find replacement rubber pieces, probably in a roll of self-adhesive trim.Assuming I can find the rubber, the one piece I for sure need is the little piece on the cab behind the driver's door. However, the piece on the bed on the passenger's side has a small ding and it may be slightly bent from the accident where the bed was crushed.
As for the shipping, I whole-heartedly concur that it will need to be well boxed/protected.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
From: Uniontown PA USA
Kinda on the same path as the original poster....
When going to a mechanical pump from a dual electric 460 on my 86 f350, does the return just get plugged with a bolt? or should i keep it hooked up via the metal fuel line junction (for lack of better words)? I think this junction allowed vapors back thru to prevent vapor lock.
P.O. installed mech fuel pump due to common failure of electrics towing. I am not sure if he removed all the electrics from the tank but the oil pressure switch is disconnected (so they wouldnt be pumping) and i am placing a oil press gauge where the switch is.
So i guess i am asking in short.... Should i hook up the return using the old metal junction/line? or should i go with a new single fuel line from the mech pump to carb with a filter to simple things up?
When going to a mechanical pump from a dual electric 460 on my 86 f350, does the return just get plugged with a bolt? or should i keep it hooked up via the metal fuel line junction (for lack of better words)? I think this junction allowed vapors back thru to prevent vapor lock.
P.O. installed mech fuel pump due to common failure of electrics towing. I am not sure if he removed all the electrics from the tank but the oil pressure switch is disconnected (so they wouldnt be pumping) and i am placing a oil press gauge where the switch is.
So i guess i am asking in short.... Should i hook up the return using the old metal junction/line? or should i go with a new single fuel line from the mech pump to carb with a filter to simple things up?
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
From: Uniontown PA USA
Ok I was I guess concerned that it would restrict fuel flow or something on my mild 460
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