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I am a huge tool buff and have a massive amount of snap on tools. It appears the general service set snap on use to offer for the international/navistar engines is discontinued.
What tools should I be looking for if I want to do any service on my truck in the future? Snap on part numbers are great
I have the axle socket for the front diff but thats about the only specialty tool to this truck that I have
There also is a spindle remover too i got from snapon.i am going to use it for the first time sat. Ill let you know the pn when i get back to work.it should be real handy!
While I wouldn't call any of these "specialty" tools, a metric crowsfoot set makes the removal of the turbo (collector bolts) and fuel filter stand pipe (remember it is REVERSE threaded) easier. I think the crow's foot you need is the 15mm but someone else should be able to confirm that. 1 1/4 box end wrench is handy for the Banjo bolt on the fuel pump, but it can be gotten with a shallow 1 1/4" socket and the right combination of adapters, extensions and a swivel head ratchet too.
Other than that, the biggest "specialty" tool you need for these trucks is a good scanner that will communicate with our PSD drivetrain. Most cheapo scanners won't do it. Auto Enginuity (requires that you have a laptop) or an Aeroforce Scangauge (that can stay in the truck if you want it to) are by far the most popular in this regard.
Actually, it's closer to OBD-II than OBD-I. OBD-I just had two-digit DTCs, which is why you could read them with CEL blink sequences. Our trucks' codes are the Pxxxx codes, more like the standard OBD-II. But yeah, the takeaway is, a standard OBD-II scanner won't read them. I have gotten standard OBD-II scanners to read real rudimentary data, like speed and RPM.
You do need a special adapter to span those way deep passages that the glow plugs mount in, to hook up a compression tester. There are threads out there on how to build one with off-the-shelf fittings.
Oh, a big torx (T50? T30?) for the tensioner, but that's not really "specialty" these days.
Wha'bout the fan clutch? I know it's a bigeffin' nut like most, but it's an unusual size, no? And unlike many, IIRC, it's NOT reverse threaded (because the water pump runs on the backward-turning smooth pulley).
If you like Snap On equipment, the Snap On Solus works awesome, even on our trucks. I've used a Solus a lot along with the Ford IDS. If I had the money, those are awesome tools, but I don't have the money so I have to use the scan gauge in my truck and I use Auto Enginuity for other peoples trucks.
While AE (Auto Enginuity) does work in our trucks, I've found that a lot of times I have to really fight to get it to connect with our trucks. It works great every time on SDs, but sometimes it doesn't want to connect to OBSs and I have to jack with it.
If you like Snap On equipment, the Snap On Solus works awesome, even on our trucks. I've used a Solus a lot along with the Ford IDS. If I had the money, those are awesome tools, but I don't have the money so I have to use the scan gauge in my truck and I use Auto Enginuity for other peoples trucks.
While AE (Auto Enginuity) does work in our trucks, I've found that a lot of times I have to really fight to get it to connect with our trucks. It works great every time on SDs, but sometimes it doesn't want to connect to OBSs and I have to jack with it.
I drove 3 hours to scan a members truck in here with my scan gauge, and the pin-out on his 96 was changed or different.
I think somebody couldn't get a scanner to work on it so they tried re-pinning the connector and just left it as is.
He was having some issues and I wanted to pull codes for him. We had to resort to pull this and give it a drive tests.
Which wasn't a bad excuse, he was out of beer. haha.
I have no experience with AE, but I can think of many computer side reasons you have issues.
Actually, it's closer to OBD-II than OBD-I. OBD-I just had two-digit DTCs, which is why you could read them with CEL blink sequences. Our trucks' codes are the Pxxxx codes, more like the standard OBD-II. But yeah, the takeaway is, a standard OBD-II scanner won't read them. I have gotten standard OBD-II scanners to read real rudimentary data, like speed and RPM.
You do need a special adapter to span those way deep passages that the glow plugs mount in, to hook up a compression tester. There are threads out there on how to build one with off-the-shelf fittings.
Oh, a big torx (T50? T30?) for the tensioner, but that's not really "specialty" these days.
Wha'bout the fan clutch? I know it's a bigeffin' nut like most, but it's an unusual size, no? And unlike many, IIRC, it's NOT reverse threaded (because the water pump runs on the backward-turning smooth pulley).
Hey!
Where you been?
Anyways, yeah, he's right on the OBD stuff. I claim its more of OBD1 than 2, but either way.
I claim OBD1 because we have a simple sensor system as opposed to most OBD2 style systems that have a mess of sensors and readings everywhere.
Looking at the scanable area's on our computers vs the OBD2 SD's is far far different.
The Cornwell scan tool should scan it as well as the SnapOn scanner that Travis Mentioned.
But not standard scanners will unless its designed for our trucks.
As for the Water Pump wrench, I never thought of that one.
While I wouldn't call any of these "specialty" tools, a metric crowsfoot set makes the removal of the turbo (collector bolts) and fuel filter stand pipe (remember it is REVERSE threaded) easier. I think the crow's foot you need is the 15mm but someone else should be able to confirm that. 1 1/4 box end wrench is handy for the Banjo bolt on the fuel pump, but it can be gotten with a shallow 1 1/4" socket and the right combination of adapters, extensions and a swivel head ratchet too.
Other than that, the biggest "specialty" tool you need for these trucks is a good scanner that will communicate with our PSD drivetrain. Most cheapo scanners won't do it. Auto Enginuity (requires that you have a laptop) or an Aeroforce Scangauge (that can stay in the truck if you want it to) are by far the most popular in this regard.
IIRC the crowfoot size for the stand pipe is 7/8".
An air chisel works great for removing the fan clutch; then you don't need the big funny wrench for it. Just get a blunt tip on one of the flats of the nut, give it a couple short blasts in the right direction and is spins right off.
Definitely subscribing! I love tools... since i havent acquired a shop yet i havent bought too many, but its good to know what yall have used for jobs in the past.
I have no experience with AE, but I can think of many computer side reasons you have issues.
I doubt it's a computer issue since it works perfectly every time I hook it up to an SD. On AE sometimes you have to change it to a non OBD II configuration to get it to connect to the truck which is a PITA sometimes. I have also had a 96 OBS that didn't want to connect on OBD II or non OBD II, switched it back to OBD II and it worked. Weird stuff.
Plus, the computer also works great to reburn the chip and datalog on my F-150.