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I am having a few problems with my 300 starting to overheat a little. It's not that bad, but I've noticed that the heat is starting to get up there. I have an 81 F150 with an 300 and T-18 tranny and I am going to get a pop-up camper and I need to tow it. However, I've noticed that the 300 is getting lil hot at high speeds. I was going to get a complete engine flush and change out the thermostat. I was also thinking of getting a larger radiator too. My question is, How big can I go with the Radiator and from what car can I get it from...I'm going to search the auto salvages and get it rebuilt. OR, should I get the old one rebulit?
before you jump into a new radiator change the fluid and thermostat i think some one on here said the best ratio for the 6 is 90%to10% try that and see what happens and then decide on a new or rebuilt radiator... also try cleaning the front of your radiator maybe its dirty with bugs and junk restricting airflow
Sounds good, what about replacing the fan. Electric or get a new hi-flow fan? An Electric could save on HP, but would it flow as much as a belt driven with an aftermarket fan?
Keep the mechanical fan and put a heavy duty clutch on it. This will increase airflow with engine speed. An electric fan always moves the same amount of air. Once you are moving the fan moves very little air. As far as power is concerned, I gained nothing by dumping the stock fan.
* Wiggle you water pump shaft for play, while your at it.
*Get the coldest thermostat you can (or don't use one).
*Electric fans better then mechanical fans at low speeds, but the rest of the time you don't even need a fan. A fan shroud can help, but this is a low spped iteam too.
*A bigger radiator is always a plus, but there isn't a lot of room for a thicker one in your truck, is there?
*The best ratio for cooling is no antifreeze, just buy a bottle of rust inhibitor.
Well, I originally thought that if I would put in a larger radiator, then it would result in better cooling. I have enough room in the ford, maybe too much room. But, I'll check out the water pump and the thermostat. Thank's guys.
While the best coolant is water, its boiling point is lower without antifreeze/coolant mixed in. Additionally, the AF/Coolant acts as a lube (and protects from degradation) for the water-pump seal/bearing, where plain water does not. I am not sure that rust inhibitor, alone, helps with such lubrication.
A standard starting place for cooling would be 50% water, 50% AF/C. Many shops and mechanics I have talked to, and worked alongside, don't understand this, and they end up putting in 100% AF/C, or very near to it. This mix maintains heat levels instead of releasing the heat as fast as it should.
The ultimate cooling mix, as I have come to understand it (and subsequently used it), is water and Redline's Water Wetter. Redline's WW fights corrosion, lubricates, and does actually help with cooling and the boiling point. The problem with this is that the mix is only good for race cars/motorcycles, or vehicles which will never, ever see freezing temperatures. So for street vehicles some typical Antifreeze can be added - use enough for the area you live in.
Last edited by GammaDriver; May 19, 2003 at 12:18 PM.
First check the fins and flow on your radiator, and the water pump. When mine did this a couple years ago, it was simply the fan clutch gone out. Cost less than $50 to fix and runs cool, man, cool.
My truck originally came with a finger guard in place of the fan shroud. I snagged a fan shroud from an air-conditioned truck. It encases the entire engine side of the radiator and the fan. 'Can't hurt .
Ford recomends you use pre mixed coolent - I belive it has a lot to do with the efi sensors-and the correct temp for the engine and the eec to work the right way .
Now since your truck has a carb on it it isnt a big deal but dont use just water - 50/50 mix and a good thermostat will keep it cool if the radiator is in good condition !
Dont run the truck with no thermostat. The water moves through the engine to fast to cool it correctly - the engine will over heat on the high way -the t-stat is needed to "slow" the water down. Not only that a engine has a operating temperature that it runs the best at ( most power and the best fuel enconomy)
Go to your local ford dealer and get the correct t-stat for it.
Stant t- stats are good too but the motorcraft t-stats dont fulctuate as much as the stants- at least that is the general concensus here on FTE .
Yep, I'm pretty sure that I need to bring that 50-50 mixture closer together. I think I have way more AF than water. The Ford has a finger shroud and no clutch. I'm thinking that I need a flush and t-stat. But, I'm also wanting to find max cooling too.
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