My '78 F150 originally came with a 351 m and I swapped in a '79 F350 460 v8. I do not have a fan shroud. The truck's original radiator was plugged up so I swapped it for one from an unknown model from a friend, and now that one is leaking.

I would like to replace it, but it looks like all the reasonably priced aftermarket units are aluminum. I know a well designed aftermarket aluminum radiator could cool just as well as the factory ones, but the stuff on ebay just looks like a cheap aluminum copy of the stock brass and copper ones.

I know that in order to use the radiator effectively, I need a shroud. This one is cheap and I like that its plastic, unlike the mystery fiber material the stock ones are (all the ones I've seen are in pieces). Xtra Cooling Super Shroud

Its also reasonably priced compared to stock replacements. the description says its made specificaly for the xtra cooling radiator, but from the few radiators I've looked at, except for the one in my 2wd 300ci truck, they look like the same over dimensions as far as height and width.

do I need to find an actual xtra cooling radiator to use that shroud, or could I adapt it to just about any radiator, which is what I'm thinking??

Anyone have any experience with replacement radiators? I'm thinking of getting a quote from a shop to have them go over mine and clean it and repair it. Wouldn't hurt just to check how much that might cost...

 

I do know different types of shroud were used by Ford to suit different radiators. On the LMC site, they tell you how to measure the shroud to determine what one you need, that should help you determine the radiator you have.
As for an aftermarket radiator and shroud, you will need to do your homework there.
Shane

 

I wouldn't trust LMC's catalogs, as they are rife with errors and omissions.

Dennis Carpenter's 1967/79 truck repro parts catalog has actual photographs of the various fan shrouds, shows the dimensions and lists the Ford part numbers. Call DC @ 800-476-9653, order the puppy, it's free.

Super Cooling Radiator (SC/R): Optional 1973/74 F100/350 460, Standard Equipment 1975/79 F100/350 460: Its top tank is HUGE, much wider and deeper than the Standard/Xtra Cooling & A/C radiators.

SC/R also available for 1977/79 F100/350's (1978/79 Bronco's) with 351M/400's as an option.

Fan shrouds have FoMoCo ID engineering numbers molded (marked) into the fibreglass at the upper left (drivers) side corner.

D3TZ-8146-D .. Fan Shroud-Use with SC/R / Marked: D4TA-CA or CB

Applications: 1973/79 F100/350 460.
-----------------------------------
D7TZ-8146-D .. Fan Shroud-Use with SC/R / Marked: D7TA-SA

Applications: 1977/79 F100/350 & 1978/79 Bronco 351M/400.
-----------------------------------------------------------
> > 1977/79 F100/350 (1978/79 Bronco) 351M/400: There are two other fan shrouds. < <

D7TZ-8146-A .. Fan Shroud-Use with Xtra Cooling & A/C Radiators / Marked: D7TA-AA

Applications: 1977/79 F100/350 & 1978/79 Bronco 351M/400.
-----------------------------------------------------------
D7TZ-8146-B .. Fan Shroud-Use with Standard Cooling Radiator / Marked: D7TA-FA

Applications: 1977/79 F100/350 & 1978/79 Bronco 351M/400.

 

I just did the radiator on my '78/F250/400m. It came as original with a 2 core radiator, shroud and fixed fan. The 35 year old orignal rad was at the end of its rope.

Autozone offers both 2 core and 3 core high capacity replacement rads. I went with the 3 core for just over $200. My original shroud was fine. I switched to a thermal fan clutch to cut noise and gain a little fuel economy. It all works well. Would that 3 core have enough capacity for a 460? Maybe. One approach is to look up OE replacement radiators for 460 equipped trucks.

I have also purchased radiators online from "radiators.com" before for other projects with good results. Worth a look.

Depending on the shop, re-core and re-build may be a good option but it is often no less costly than replacement with new.

The shroud to match the radiator and fan is very important to keep it cool when its not rolling. I don't know the best place to get one but I'd find one.

 

I replaced my rad late last summer with a extra cooling one as it was the biggest one I could find that would fit. I also got mine from autozone for a little over $200. I then ordered a new shroud from JBG that fit my core dimensions. I was less than enthused with the fit/finish for the price but it is a strong molded plastic shroud and I shouldn't ever need another one unless my fan breaks loose and busts it. After that I have since gotten a severe duty thermal clutch and the problem I ran into was deciding if I want the face of the clutch at the required distance from the rad core? OR have the fan sit in the mouth/opening of the fan shoud as it should. With this shroud, you can't have both since it's deeper than it maybe should be. Hope this helps.

 

ahh, I understand. I think you would want the fan in the right position at the mount of the shroud, if thats the choice.

As far as number dummy's response goes, I do have AC. If I have AC, should I NOT go with the 3 core? I've been doing some reading, and apparently the reason AC trucks didn't get the 3 core is that the 3 core is so thick the air doesn't flow through it very well, and combined with the AC evaporator you might not be able to draw enough air through. The radiator for the 460 trucks, stock, was a 2 core. But thats 2 core brass/copper, which has better heat dispersion characteristics than aluminum. The only way an aluminum core can cool better is by being thinner and have a better fin design, and most of the cheap replacements I've seen are just OE copies made in aluminum.

I won't be getting one from autozone, as theirs are aluminum with plastic end tanks. Thats a recipe for disaster on an off road truck with as much frame flex as mine. I hate plastic end tanks, very very common for them to crack or separate from the core where they are crimped on. The full welded aluminum ones off ebay are about the same price as the aluminum ones with plastic end tanks from the parts stores so if it comes down to one or the other I'll go with the full welded one.

There is a truck in the junkyard with a decent looking radiator and shroud, I just don't know that pulling it will get me a better radiator than the one that I have, you know...

 

I bought mine, a stock 2 core from O'reillys, just over $200, brass and copper construction just like the OEM and bolted right up. Murray is the manufacturer.

 

really? When was that?? They don't have any listed that aren't plastic/aluminum.

 

The first one listed is the one I have IIRC. Appears to be a 3 row
List: Radiator - 1976 Ford F-100 | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Huh, did a seach for a '78 F-250 /460 and they all appear to be plastic tanks, that sucks

 

FWIW the 3 core high capacity replacement radiator I got from AZ for my '78 400m is brass/copper.

 

Interesting. I'll check there. Numberdummy, or anyone, do you know the difference between a '76 radiator and a '78? I think the trucks switched core supports in '78 but I thought the changes were just related to the newer light buckets and stuff. Would one of the brass ones from o reily's for a '76 fit my '78? Their site lists different radiators for a '76 than my '78, and I'm sure there is a reason.

 

from the dimensions, this would exactly replace the one that I have: Spectra Premium/Radiator (CU132) | 1978 Ford F150 1/2 ton P/U 4WD 8 Cylinders G 5.0L 2BL OHV | AutoZone.com

$250 is reasonable compared to what others are asking, but still a bit steep for me right now, especially if I have to fork out $85 plus shipping for a shroud from jbg.

 

FYI....do not bolt these new radiators up tight with all four bolts, use only the two top bolts and I don't tighten them but hand tight with a little loctite to keep them from backing out.

Our trucks flex too much and will bust these new thin radiators if you bolt them up tight.
If you want, you can loctite the lower bolts and put them in halfway just for safety.

 

I apparently cracked the one I have no when I jacked up the core support to replace core support bushings.

 

Are you doing alot of offroading; ie flexing your frame or do you mean even on the street? I ask because mine bolted up just like the OEM (except OEM has some metal spacers that hold it off the core support abit) and I havent had any problems YET but I just drive on the street mostly. Seems like any flex would be taken up at the core support bushings and the support wouldnt transfer the flex to the rad.