When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Is the special tool the only option to install the front and rear crank seals??? What are you guys using? Is a special tool needed for the rear main also. I'm waiting on this info before I order the Blackwater engine.
The special tools need for the front crank seal removal/installation is 303-761 and 303-762. For the rear crank seal it's 303-770 and 303-771. Those are the Rotunda tool numbers.
Do I need a special tool for the rear main??? Any other special tools you can think of I need to get ordered before starting??? I'm doing the clutch and long block. Thanks again mchan.
It's almost 700 for the crank seal install only tools. Wow. Why wouldn't Blackwater want to make money on this. I asked them and they said they would not do the front n rear cover install even if I shipped the covers to them. That sux. Unless I can figure this out,,,, forget Blackwater. Mchan,,, do I need the removal tools, I mean can it be done without damage without them????
I mean, Blackwater is no longer a good deal if I also have to add 700 to the price for the crank seals. That's getting close to the local machine shops prices. Then I don't have to wait for shipping and the warranty would be local. Blackwater isn't ruled out yet, I'm just pissed cause the darn tools for the seals are gonna cost almost as much as the clutch. Im open for advice. Should I get the tools and go ahead???? Or let a shop do the total rebuild, then I can install it.
Anyone have any experience with performance machine and mfg???? I got quoted 6000 ( which 1000) of it is core charge. Front n rear covers installed with crank seals installed, oil cooler, heads, studs, remainder of full gasket set, branch tube, n can't remember what else. Sounds like a great deal. As long as their engine is up to snuff.
That looks like a very good deal. HOWEVER, there are two minor details I would want to clarify with them before you give the go ahead.
First off, it looks like they use the ill-fated Black Onyx head gaskets in their build. I would make the deal contingent upon them installing OEM Ford gaskets, and see if they are willing, even if it means you would have to supply them with it out of your own pocket.
Second and more importantly, your truck is a manual transmission truck if I'm not mistaken. Manual transmission equipped trucks use a completely different rear engine cover that will not bolt up to an automatic transmission cover. Since the majority of trucks out there are equipped with automatics, I suspect the engines they have in their surplus are all destined for trucks equipped with the automatic. That said, be prepared to surrender your rear engine cover off your truck for the build.
As far as what a three angle valve job is, here is a list of images that should best describe it:
Right on, I already cleared that I want oem gaskets. Thx again mchan. I hadn't even thought that the covers would b different tho. I'm getting the Kevlar ceramic south bend clutch and they are dealers so I might as well get it from them. I just got the truck off the trailer n got my tables set up. Gotta call some friends and get some help getting that ranch hand bumper off then,,,, it's on. I should have it ready to pull tomorrow. I wish I had a time lapse camera. That would b cool.
If you are replacing the clutch on your truck, a couple things to bear in mind. First off, don't forget to replace the cheesy plastic pivot that the clutch fork rests on. They ALWAYS break during removal. The Ford part number for this part is F81Z-7B602-AA. May I also suggest you replace your "hydraulic system"? With that many miles on it, it is guaranteed to be worn out by now. The part number for it, I THINK is 6C3Z-7C522-C, but I'm not sure. You might want to have your local Ford dealer double check under the base part 7C522. What you want, is the KIT that includes the clutch master, line and slave cylinder with fluid in it and completely assembled already in the box. You will not need to bleed the system. Simply install it, and the very first clutch pedal application will set it up automatically.
Lastly, if your truck is still on it's original clutch you may end up needing to change the flywheel and the crankshaft bolts along with it, if it still has the original garbage dual mass flywheel setup. But I'll hold off for now, until you have it all apart.
Ok great. I have replaced the clutch hydrolics before. So I know what ur talking about there. The south bend clutch kit I'm looking at looks like it comes with the flywheel, I will definitely double check. I kinda ashamed that I've never done a clutch. I will get the fork plastic crap piece. Even tho I have no idea what ur talking about. Lol. Does the dealer sell the flywheel bolts, or would some grade 8's work? Hopefully they will come with the new flywheel.
Just bought a short block from Performance Machine and MFG for my brothers 07 550. Fingers crossed. I'll let you know how it goes. Putting it in the truck tomorrow. Make sure they don't put those junk gaskets on it.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.