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Hey guys I need some help,I am starting to feel bad because I always have questions, and never bean able to help anybody here sorry for not bean smart like you guys.
My problem is I installed new coil springs , new tie rod ends inner and otter,new drag link and pivot bushings, I made sure everything went back the same way,I made sure the tie rod ends were threaded in the same amount of turns and pointing the same way they were, but now my tires are in at the top. Is there something I am missing, or how can I fix the problem,Is there some kind of adjustment please help.
Hey guys I need some help,I am starting to feel bad because I always have questions, and never bean able to help anybody here sorry for not bean smart like you guys.
My problem is I installed new coil springs , new tie rod ends inner and otter,new drag link and pivot bushings, I made sure everything went back the same way,I made sure the tie rod ends were threaded in the same amount of turns and pointing the same way they were, but now my tires are in at the top. Is there something I am missing, or how can I fix the problem,Is there some kind of adjustment please help.
Hmmmm.. that's odd... it usually has positive camber (top of tire out) when all is said and done. Does it sit lower than before changing the components?.. Ya didn't cut the coils, right?
The tie rod ends and overall length of the steering components would only affect toe, not camber. There is no home-based adjustment for camber.
Try this and then post your results.... roll/drive it about 10 feet back and then 10 feet forward to take the bind/scrub out of the suspension components.
Hio thank for the response, No I did not cut the coils, and as far as driving the truck I took it to church this morning that's how I know the tires are in at the top, i looked at it wen I parked it with the tires straight. the only thing I did not compare were the coils to the old ones. the new ones are part # Moog 8228 according to specs this are 15 3/4 tall and I measured the old one and it also measured 15 3/4 tall, the truck is not stable to drive, do you think I have the wrong coil.
Hio thank for the response, No I did not cut the coils, and as far as driving the truck I took it to church this morning that's how I know the tires are in at the top, i looked at it wen I parked it with the tires straight. the only thing I did not compare were the coils to the old ones. the new ones are part # Moog 8228 according to specs this are 15 3/4 tall and I measured the old one and it also measured 15 3/4 tall, the truck is not stable to drive, do you think I have the wrong coil.
No problem.
Freestanding height is one thing, spring rate is another. If ya still have the old coils, do they have the same number of turns and are of the same coil diameter ("wire" thickness)? Then it could simply be different metallurgy.
Does it sit lower than it did before?
I can't think anything else unless the I-beams are bent but I assume ya just used the originals. Any play with the kingpins to create a wobble? Jack up one corner and push/pull the top and bottom of the tires to check for play.
I will have to count the turns on the new coil tomorrow and check the diameter of wire,yes I used the same I beams,and I Think the truck does sit lower than before,do you think I should put the old coils back and see if that fixes the problem or should I take it to have it aligned
I will have to count the turns on the new coil tomorrow and check the diameter of wire,yes I used the same I beams,and I Think the truck does sit lower than before,do you think I should put the old coils back and see if that fixes the problem or should I take it to have it aligned
Well, reinstalling the old coils only costs ya time. Aligning (bending) the I-beams will cost ya money. Choose the one that you have more of... Me? I'd reinstall the old coils and go from there.
Btw, do a before and after measurement between the I-beam and the bumpstop. That may clue ya in on where the funkiness is happening.
I checked the applications for the Moog PN posted above... Yer running an era-correct engine, right? Not some behemoth like a 460.
When you asked if you should align it or put the springs back in, it really has to do with why you changed the springs in the first place? if you had a good reason for changing them then i would say get the truck aligned but if you did it just because then i would say put the old ones back in.
Just for the record if the toe is pulled in too far it will create the illusion of positive camber. As a tire turns it will lean out on the side closest from the turning radius. In other words if you are turning right the right tire will exhibit positive camber during the turn. Same when turning the opposite direction with exception being the opposite tire is affected. Grab a friend and measure the width of the front of the tires in the center of the tread. Now measure the rear at the same point. The front measurement should be roughly 1/8" less than the rear. When you have the toe set that close using the rough method take a look at your tires after a drive. You can use a framers square to rough check camber. With the square flat on the ground measure distance from the rim on the bottom to the square. Without moving the square measure the top. You should see roughly 1/4" larger dimension on the top.
Hey guys thanks for all your suggestions,Hio the engine is a 390, I called the auto part store and the guy said there is two options, The ones he gave me, and I guess the other ones are better, so I'm going to try the other ones hopefully those are stiffer.
Brady the only reason I changed the coils is because I was replacing my front end parts and wanted all to be new, so if the new coils don't fix it I will put the old ones back,
well got to go, but I will post the outcome thanks again.
Hey guys thanks for all your suggestions,Hio the engine is a 390, I called the auto part store and the guy said there is two options, The ones he gave me, and I guess the other ones are better, so I'm going to try the other ones hopefully those are stiffer.
Brady the only reason I changed the coils is because I was replacing my front end parts and wanted all to be new, so if the new coils don't fix it I will put the old ones back,
well got to go, but I will post the outcome thanks again.
How can there be "two options" when Moog 8228 is one part number?
Just a couple other things. If you viewed the tires after you backed up, they very well could have been tipped in at the top, that's kind of typical. Also if the I-beam end bushings are real bad it could cause it to some degree. But probably the wrong springs. Find the ride height specifications and where to measure, make sure it isn't too low. That measurement would have to be taken after it was driven straight forward, not backed up or jacked up because either of those situations would cause an erroneous measurement.
elgemcdlf
Thanks for the info,I ended taking the coils out and changing them for heavy duty ones, I installed those same problem, (tires in at the top), then I checked the measurements with my son in front and back of tire it was 1 1/4 difference, I also used the framing square, the bottom was 1 3/4, top was 2 1/4. so I adjusted the tie rod adjustment sleeve, now my tires are straight and square to the ground, even my steering wheel is center, thanks I really appreciate your help.
I just saved a bunch of money with FTE.
thank you all.
elgemcdlf
Thanks for the info,I ended taking the coils out and changing them for heavy duty ones, I installed those same problem, (tires in at the top), then I checked the measurements with my son in front and back of tire it was 1 1/4 difference, I also used the framing square, the bottom was 1 3/4, top was 2 1/4. so I adjusted the tie rod adjustment sleeve, now my tires are straight and square to the ground, even my steering wheel is center, thanks I really appreciate your help.
I just saved a bunch of money with FTE.
thank you all.
You are most welcome BUT you still need it set on a real alignment machine. What I gave you was get it close so you can drive it to the alignment shop.