tape measure alignment?
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Joined: Jan 2003
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tape measure alignment?
I took my truck (2000 4x4) to get the annual safety inspection, and it failed because of the outer tie rod end on the passenger side. The ball joint on the end of it is shot. So I bought a tie rod end, and I'm trying to get this done without having to pay for an alignment (I'm cheap).
The truck drives nice and the tires are worn evenly, so I'm banking on the caster and camber being OK. I've heard of people setting the toe with a tape measure, just measure the distances between the fronts and backs of the front tires and perform a little trigonometry on them to get the toe angle set.
Anybody done this? What is the total toe spec for that truck? It says "off road" on the side, I don't know if that's a package or if all 4x4s say that. It has the aluminum 16" wheels with 255/75/16s on it I believe. Thanks.
The truck drives nice and the tires are worn evenly, so I'm banking on the caster and camber being OK. I've heard of people setting the toe with a tape measure, just measure the distances between the fronts and backs of the front tires and perform a little trigonometry on them to get the toe angle set.
Anybody done this? What is the total toe spec for that truck? It says "off road" on the side, I don't know if that's a package or if all 4x4s say that. It has the aluminum 16" wheels with 255/75/16s on it I believe. Thanks.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Denver
Toe should be around .25" +/- .25" for 2wd, and around 3/8" +/- .25 for 4wd according to my manual. (My experience is 1/8" to 1/4" is good for the 4x4.) If the caster and camber are okay, you should be able to change out the tie rod end and measure the toe w/ your tape measure and be okay. I've done it before and had it work - just watch the tire wear to make sure you measured properly.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Aurora
As long as you're sure that your existing alignment with respect to toe is good, this method from what I understand will work. get two 6-8 ft lengths of angle iron, box channel, etc. They dont even have to be straight(redneck method). Jack the front end up and support both sides from under lower ball joints/control arms. Deflate tires and clamp on the angle irons to the rims(making contact to both sides of rim) so they stick out way out in front to the max. Measure between the ends of the angle iron and go ahead and change out the tie rod end. Adjust until the measurement is the same as before. Fred
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Mid-Mitten
A real simple/quick method I've used a few times successfully -
Bend two short 90 degree angles onto the very end of a length of (perfectly straight!) welding rod (or similar rod/wire) - to look sorta like this -
l___________________l ... each bent end being no longer than 1/2" or so.
Grind a point onto the tip of each end, hold one end's point against the spindle's arm, near where the tie rod bolts to - and the other end to the steering rod, just beyond the threaded area. Use a (automatic?) centerpunch to "mark" where the rod's points rest, creating a dimple that the points "sit" in. If there's any play in the tie rod's end, average the play out, and punch the second dimple dead-center of the "play area".
Change out the tie rod end, and adjust it so as the points fall back into the dimples/punch marks. You'll notice that a 1/2 turn of the tie rod end either way will easily move it out of the point-into-dimple's range.
IMO - As long as the original alignment was correct, this is pretty much a sure bet, setting alignment exactly back (or as close as possible, given the 1/2 turn resolution) to where it was before tie rod end removal.
Works good, lasts a long time!
Bend two short 90 degree angles onto the very end of a length of (perfectly straight!) welding rod (or similar rod/wire) - to look sorta like this -
l___________________l ... each bent end being no longer than 1/2" or so.
Grind a point onto the tip of each end, hold one end's point against the spindle's arm, near where the tie rod bolts to - and the other end to the steering rod, just beyond the threaded area. Use a (automatic?) centerpunch to "mark" where the rod's points rest, creating a dimple that the points "sit" in. If there's any play in the tie rod's end, average the play out, and punch the second dimple dead-center of the "play area".
Change out the tie rod end, and adjust it so as the points fall back into the dimples/punch marks. You'll notice that a 1/2 turn of the tie rod end either way will easily move it out of the point-into-dimple's range.
IMO - As long as the original alignment was correct, this is pretty much a sure bet, setting alignment exactly back (or as close as possible, given the 1/2 turn resolution) to where it was before tie rod end removal.
Works good, lasts a long time!
Last edited by moat; Jun 11, 2007 at 11:07 PM.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,724
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From: clinton,tn
count the turn's on the thread's as you turn it out,that will get you close.i use a tape sometime's and measure from inside the thread of the tire's to set toe.frt side then the back side,1/8 toe in is good.
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Denver
Originally Posted by StangVT66
Thanks for the replies. When you say 1/4", 1/8", etc., is that the difference in lengths between the backs of the wheels and the fronts? Rims? Tires? I was expecting a measurement in degrees.
Last edited by rubydist; Jun 12, 2007 at 09:42 AM.
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2001
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1/8 inch of toe in is pretty much standard less than that or toed out and the truck will wander going down the road more than that and the tires will wear wrong. and toe in means the front of the tire is narrower the the back.
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