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I was always told to not push the piston in on caliper, with out opening a bleeder, or it would push stagnant brake fluid up and in to master cylinder.
If your cap is in place on your master cylinder reservoir and you compress the piston too much WITHOUT MONITORING fluid level then you can possibly be hydro locking the system. Remove cap carefully with rags under the reservoir and suck the fluid level down a bit but not below low.
When your brakes were new and your fluid level was topped up every thing was fine. Over time you have wore down your brakes and the level in the reservoir has gone down and someone has topped off the fluid level. This fluid that has been added as the brakes have wore down needs to be removed as you compress the pistons.
I hope this is what you are looking for. I have never had a problem with compressing pistons in calipers unless they were going in uneven and tilted in the cylinder part of the housing. If you have scored the cylinder for the piston then the caliper will need to be replaced. It is best to bleed all the fluid from the reservoir to the front left wheel until all new fluid is in the reservoir and then bleed each wheel and add fluid as you bleed to get rid of the old and dirty fluid.
On the rears you may need to disconnect the E Brake cable completely to get the new shoes on.
Dwayne
This may be too late, but did you grease the slide pins? This is the weak link on the Ford calipers... I was introduced to the hazards of not checking the slide pins.
This may be too late, but did you grease the slide pins? This is the weak link on the Ford calipers... I was introduced to the hazards of not checking the slide pins.
i used 2 big c clamps with a used brake pad between clamps and piston .the resivore is vented so it should just squirt out when compressing calliper slowley but its best to remove cap make sure to clean up spilt brake fuild quikly as its great paint remover
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