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V-10 from 2001 with PI heads will now start to build itself. OK. NOT. I am having the block bored over with new pistons and rings and bearings. Also having heads re-done with new valves. Will do the build in my garage but am curious if anyone might be interested in my non PI v-10. It passed smog this year and is running great. But, always a but, I got this engine for free and am looking forward to building a motor. It has been a long time.......76 ford pinto. This will be a little different. I love my work truck and use it to pull a lot of stuff and it now has 214000 on the odometer. Wife says build a new motor so I guess I do what the wife says. Wait, it was this or buy another truck to pull travel trailer to slow down the miles. We love camping and this truck is pulling a lot. All new internal parts are going in except crank. Thoughts? By the way I have worked out my overheat problem by doing stock thermostat, new water pump. new radiator, new intake manifold gaskets, and finally....... new clutch fan. All is well. I know there are some other posts with pics but should I post some more? During the build or should I do the swap? Or should I just go away? Really fast with my wife induced new motor?
One thing to keep an eye on is the crankshaft end-play - I've heard of a few V10s that the end-play gets too high and the tone ring on the crank no longer registers with the crank sensor.
If you're having the crank cut, see what they do with the thrust surfaces. I think Ford has an .005" oversize thrust washer set available...
The guy that I have doing the block and the head work is going to hang the pistons also. He is only going to polish the crank. He says it is within specks but I will definitely ask him when I drop off the rest of the pistons and the timing cover and pan for dipping. I am having him bore the block over due to minimal clearance with old pistons. The original owner did not take very good care of this thing I guess. I really am seriously thinking about painting my new motor. I saw several done that way at car shows and think it would look real sweet. I am also thinking of buying an engine stand due to the one I borrowed for the tear down was really hard to flip the motor over. I must need a heavier duty one with this big motor?
The length of the block is probably causing the motor stand to be tough to turn. Not to mention, center of gravity might not be safe.
Make sure your machinist checks that crankshaft endplay... if it's on the high side of the spec, I wonder if it would make sense to use a .005" oversize thrust washer as long as it's still within specs with it installed.
I will for sure check today with him. He is ordering all the pieces this morning. This would be a good time to add the thrust washer if needed. Full timing, oil pump, valves, pistons, rings, bearings, and probably more.
Talked to my guy and brought him the pistons, the oil cooler, and the back block cover (i think). So many parts!! Art, he said there is no movement and I need not worry about the thrust washer. However, I have known him for many years and that could change. He needed the crank caps to start the bore of the block. I believe we are going 20 over due to clearances. As soon as the block is done I will bring it home and set up the engine stand. He is only hanging the pistons so that is why I will get the block first.
WOW!!!! Sweet Caroline this is beautiful! Block looks fantastic. Heads are super clean. New valves. 30 over on the new block. This is going to be fun. Now it is time to go to harbor freight and get the new stand.
WOW!!!! Sweet Caroline this is beautiful! Block looks fantastic. Heads are super clean. New valves. 30 over on the new block. This is going to be fun. Now it is time to go to harbor freight and get the new stand.
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