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One thing to keep an eye on is the crankshaft end-play - I've heard of a few V10s that the end-play gets too high and the tone ring on the crank no longer registers with the crank sensor.
If you're having the crank cut, see what they do with the thrust surfaces. I think Ford has an .005" oversize thrust washer set available...
Incorrect.
The crankshaft end play has nothing to do with the crank sensor picking up the trigger wheel. The end is magnetic and any dirt or grim that sticks to that sensor can lead to issues with the crank sensor reading the crank trigger.
I can move the trigger wheel about .050 either way and it will still read fine.
The crankshaft end play has nothing to do with the crank sensor picking up the trigger wheel. The end is magnetic and any dirt or grim that sticks to that sensor can lead to issues with the crank sensor reading the crank trigger.
I can move the trigger wheel about .050 either way and it will still read fine.
There was at least one V10 I've heard of, maybe two, that .050 sounds low for how far out the end-play was
Doesn't matter, the end-play is still critical, and there have been a handful of V10s where it was too far - WAY too far out.
To all concerned, Is this a better avatar? As I said, this avatar will change as time goes on. Art, Did you use the headman gaskets and wye pipe? I'm thinking that I might buy a set for this.
Few more pics available. In the same link that Art posted. Got nine pistons installed today . 10th has a broken ring due to Best Friend helping out. Accidents happen. Anyone trying this should know that the more oil....the better and that a second set of hands is HUGE!!
Heads are already done. The whole thing is stock. I had to bore 30 over on the pistons to maintain clearances. Well I guess I could've gone less but when you are already doing it why not go big!? It really helps having Ford factory CD's for this though. Step by step details.
Added a few more pics. At a stand still waiting for a new ring. Got all connecting rods torqued and oil pump on and torqued. Found the freeze plugs at Car Quest and put all of those in. Oil cooler is just sitting there due to missing bolts.
More pics! Heads going on. Is it just me or does someone else notice an issue with the Balancer and the cam? I thought I could trust this guy.Sorry, pics are in the album. Engine build. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...?albumid=30718
Last edited by SDV10; Oct 27, 2012 at 04:09 PM.
Reason: Pics
Had to jack and support the engine to install rear cover and oil seal. Forgot to take pictures but was very secure. Stands, floor jack, bottle jack, and all is good. Pan bolted on. Found out that the old pulleys were had bad bearings and driver side valve cover is broke. Camping trip coming up so no chance of motor swap until December. More pics.
No need for the tool they require for the crank placement. Put the timing cover on the front without crank seal in it and then put harmonic balancer on crank and put it to top dead center. Sweet Cheat.
Just sitting here lurking around and thought of a question. Is there any reason I would need to get bigger injectors for going 30 over? I would ask the guy who did the machine work but after the balancer issue I am not sure he is a good source of info.
More pics of engine complete. Going to coast this weekend so no install for now. Current engine still running strong. Was going to use the hedman headers but after all the problems decided against for now so that is why the stock manifolds are on. Also will have my muffler guy re work the wye pipe for better flow when the install is done. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...?albumid=30718
Last edited by SDV10; Nov 4, 2012 at 06:54 PM.
Reason: link
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