Okay guys (gals?),

I need to replace my brake lines. I recently replaced my master cylinder and it was fouled with bits of something I can't identify. I'm a third owner so it's been fouled for at least 3 years. I've never done this kind of work before so I was wondering if any of you had any pics of how your lines look going from M. Cylinder to proportioning valve? I don't trust these lines to be original. The reason I ask this is because the lines from the cylinder look oddly curly-cued to me. I'll post a pic after I get home from work today.

P.S. I believe I should replace the calipers in the front and at least examine the drums in the back.

 

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</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE> some people should not have access to computer.....me all I know is paste and copy at least Im not killing trees

 

Hi

your brake line should come out of your booster nice and straight for about 2 inchs.

you will then turn toward the center of the truck (using a small pipe bender, or the actual tool you can buy for like $15)

I cannot remember the actual physic law of fluid, but you must have 3 full turn, 3 X 360 degree, (some people say 2) for your brake to work properly. A bottle of beer does the trick real nice.

then you will need one or two more angle to come toward the proportional valve, again leave about 2 inches for a straigth path to the coupling.

Mine are 72 inchs long, 2/3 of the way up, i did 3 wrap around the beer bottle, nice and smooth, then using the long side i bent it to the proportional valve, the small side goes to your booster.

G

 

Wow! I like Inline Tube too, but wow.
You can't beat Inline Tube for fit or quality, period! I replaced all of the hard lines on my project ('73 F100 2WD) with their stainless steel lines.
The prop. valve is in a different location than on the later trucks, but all of them have the lines coiled at the master cylinder. This is to dampen vibration in the line and keep them from cracking. This is factory.
Inline tube The brake plumbing experts

 

hi Mike

Those are nice as hell.

G

 

Thanks.

 

Yup, inline tube is the way to go if you want pre-bent ones.

 

I would like pre-bent lines but I don't trust shipping them. They might get to me OVERLY bent.

 

Not to worry. I purchased my lines from them as well. They come in a large box and are protected very well. I was very impressed.

 

X2 ^^^^^^^^^^

 

I had mine shipped in, they arrived undamaged. The two really long lines had "shipping bends" in them. This is a large radius 180 degree bend in the line. This effectively shortens the line to reduce shipping charges. It's clearly marked and very easy to straighten, it doesn't leave a kink in the line.
Inline ships thousands of sets a year, they know how to pack them.

 

Thanks Mike - I just posted on my own thread, but I ordered fuel lines and wasn't impressed, at least first impression. Rear most line does not even come close to matching my old/stock fuel line. Not even close, and InLine tech guy admits it. But here's the question - maybe even with it not being close, would it still work? Probably not. the part that's fubard is the part that has to clear around the axle.

 

I answered your other thread and posted pictures of how the Inline's fuel line fit on my truck.

 

I used the full inline tube stainless kit for my truck as well. I bought it at a significant savings from jeffs bronco graveyard. I was not happy with the way it laid the lines out on my truck. the rear line, which was one piece from the factory, was 2 pieces from inline tube and they didn't include the male to male adapter. The rear line was squiqqly all over the frame and didn't sit flush against the frame, and was difficult to bend. The front axle line I ended up not using because with with the full flexible lines from JBG that go from the splitter at the diff all the way out to the calipers (they are fantastic!).

the pieces that replace the ones from the master cylinder down are really the only ones I felt were very valuable, because those lines are such a pain to reproduce. I've seen more and more guys just using braided steel brake line to replace those lines though.

I've decided from now on when I need to run brake line, I'm going to borrow my brother's expensive hydraulic snap on flaring tool and use the cunifer line from fed hill. Really flexible and easy to bend and rust proof: FedHill Brake Line - Where to buy brake line, fuel line, brake line flaring tools, brake line nuts and brake line fittings

You can also "loan" a nice flaring tool from them if you can pony up the deposit.

The factory routing on our trucks is kinda stupid, the tube zig zags when it doen't need to. if its not a true factory restoration its a lot easier (and cheaper) just to make yourself a nice straight single piece to go from the distribution block to the rear flex line.

 

So, where does a guy get lines for a F-250? Inline's only got F100 and 150 lines?