V10 engine builders
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V10 engine builders
I have a 2003 V10 that has 160,000 miles on it residing in a F350, crew cab, 4WD. I am thinking of replacing it with a crate engine. Does anyone know of an engine builder that addresses the inherent flaws that Ford ignored in the initial design of these engnes? I would prefer to install a properly built engine and have the tranny (5R110W I think) rebuilt rather than buying a new truck.
There is a great transmission shop near me (San Francisco Bay Area) that knows all of the tricks to make the tranny's bulletproof, I would love to find an engine builder that does the same with the V10's. Getting better performance - read horsepower and torque - is a primary motivator.
There is a great transmission shop near me (San Francisco Bay Area) that knows all of the tricks to make the tranny's bulletproof, I would love to find an engine builder that does the same with the V10's. Getting better performance - read horsepower and torque - is a primary motivator.
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Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Stephensville WI
Welcome to FTE, brian.hill4
Your transmission is a 4R100, not a 5R110W.
What are these "inherent flaws" that you are trying to correct? Why does your engine need a rebuild after only 160k miles?
Your transmission is a 4R100, not a 5R110W.
What are these "inherent flaws" that you are trying to correct? Why does your engine need a rebuild after only 160k miles?
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Redford,
Thank you for the transmission information. I'll admit to being lazy and not looking it up prior to posting.
The primary flaw is that I've blown 2 spark plugs out of the heads. I now have helicoils (spelling?) in those 2 holes. After the second one I replaced all of the plugs and used anti-sieze on the threads when installing them. I haven't had any further 'blowouts'. I haven't put helicoil's in the other 8 plugs holes - yet. I have heard that there are strength issues with the lower end, especially if any modifications for power are done.
There is a bit of blow-by, especially at start up - she uses between 1-2 quarts of oil between changes. I have always run full synthetic 5W-50 oil in my engine and change both the oil and filter between 4000 and 5000 miles.
I'm looking ahead. I would much rather plan for replacing (rebuilding) than have it thrust upon me. That, and I would love more power and torque. I have considered re-programming the 'puter but I am afraid that if I lean on the engine too much I'll start blowing plugs out of it again.
Thank you for the transmission information. I'll admit to being lazy and not looking it up prior to posting.
The primary flaw is that I've blown 2 spark plugs out of the heads. I now have helicoils (spelling?) in those 2 holes. After the second one I replaced all of the plugs and used anti-sieze on the threads when installing them. I haven't had any further 'blowouts'. I haven't put helicoil's in the other 8 plugs holes - yet. I have heard that there are strength issues with the lower end, especially if any modifications for power are done.
There is a bit of blow-by, especially at start up - she uses between 1-2 quarts of oil between changes. I have always run full synthetic 5W-50 oil in my engine and change both the oil and filter between 4000 and 5000 miles.
I'm looking ahead. I would much rather plan for replacing (rebuilding) than have it thrust upon me. That, and I would love more power and torque. I have considered re-programming the 'puter but I am afraid that if I lean on the engine too much I'll start blowing plugs out of it again.
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: laporte in
Your blowby is probably from synthetic. A few guys on the V10 side had that issue to if I recall. I use Mobil Super 5000 and haven't had any issue with consumption yet.
Another person tried having his V10 rebuilt but had issues with someone balancing the crank. The rods are the weak spot and to me really aren't that weak at all. It seems high boost numbers are what kill it.
To fix the plugs blowing out I would use the time sert method. Way stronger! And you won't have that fear of blowing a plug anymore. Just my .02
Another person tried having his V10 rebuilt but had issues with someone balancing the crank. The rods are the weak spot and to me really aren't that weak at all. It seems high boost numbers are what kill it.
To fix the plugs blowing out I would use the time sert method. Way stronger! And you won't have that fear of blowing a plug anymore. Just my .02
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From: Elk River, MN
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Pa
The plugs blew for a reason, most likely by damage to the threads or they became loose and blew. Detonation may also be an issue. My dad has had V10 trucks with the lower thread count heads since mid 1998. I do the plug changes. I have had my 04' V10 since 04' and do all my own maint work. And that does not include the other displacement modulars I have worked on and engines that use the same plugs as the modulars These "flaws" have never surfaced for me. . All using 5w-20 or 5w-30 oil and primarily MC filters.
A helicoil is a bandaid "fix". You want to install the timesert kit on the plugs that were blown. You can have timeserts put in the rest if you please. This is assuming the built in cam journals in the head are still useable. A lot of times new heads are used. Machine work can add up fast.
Timesert install info. ModularHeadShop Articles on TimeSert Installation
Costa Mesa R&D should be able to do all your machine work. A lot of shops are unable to balance V10 cranks and I contacted them and they said they can do it.
A helicoil is a bandaid "fix". You want to install the timesert kit on the plugs that were blown. You can have timeserts put in the rest if you please. This is assuming the built in cam journals in the head are still useable. A lot of times new heads are used. Machine work can add up fast.
Timesert install info. ModularHeadShop Articles on TimeSert Installation
Costa Mesa R&D should be able to do all your machine work. A lot of shops are unable to balance V10 cranks and I contacted them and they said they can do it.
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me wants one too
I have a Boat Anchor Isuzu (FSR...use to be a 28'box truck, now a 26'flatbed that I haul RV's and cars/trucks on and behind) with a straight 6 diesel. I've been planning to replace it with a gas motor (so it can burn LPG) for a long time since I hate putting money into it monthly seems like. At first I had planned to get a big block chevy but with so many V-10's available and the fact I can modify the heads cheaply enough to run LPG, I'm liking the ford option better.
You know the V10 came with the 3 valve heads later than '03 and I'd think some other upgrades as well and wonder if you'd be better off getting that one if you're going to get a crate motor anyway? This would be my best option I believe as well but I also need everything else that hooks to the engine since I have none of it. When did the 3valve come out to play? and when did they become flex fuel. You may consider that upgrade as well since LPG is only a buck a gallon.
You know the V10 came with the 3 valve heads later than '03 and I'd think some other upgrades as well and wonder if you'd be better off getting that one if you're going to get a crate motor anyway? This would be my best option I believe as well but I also need everything else that hooks to the engine since I have none of it. When did the 3valve come out to play? and when did they become flex fuel. You may consider that upgrade as well since LPG is only a buck a gallon.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Summit, MS
My oil consumption went from about 1 quart for 5,000 miles on Motorcraft Syn blend to at least 4 quarts for the same distance on Mobile 1 full synthetic. Needless to say, I switched right back to the Motorcraft oil.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Pa
Hotpocket is correct the 3V V10 came out in 2005 in the SD. The 3V V10 has a variable volume intake which I believe is controlled by the pcm. I do not think Ford officially ever brought out a flex fuel 6.8l in the super duty.
There are a lot of 2V V10s out there running off of LP and Natural gas. The 2V V10 has been in generators for over a decade now and they primarily are hooked up to nat gas or LP. Maybe you can come across a manifold from a generator V10.
I have been switched on and off between synthetic and MC blend in my truck ever since I bought it. Same with my dad. But we both have been primarily running Pennzoil Platinum but will go to another synthetic if it is one sale. Never really noticed much of difference in consumption but the standard M1 seemed to be some of the worst. The PAO M1 Extended Performance seemed to do much better. I have found that a lot of short trips tends to consume more oil.
There are a lot of 2V V10s out there running off of LP and Natural gas. The 2V V10 has been in generators for over a decade now and they primarily are hooked up to nat gas or LP. Maybe you can come across a manifold from a generator V10.
I have been switched on and off between synthetic and MC blend in my truck ever since I bought it. Same with my dad. But we both have been primarily running Pennzoil Platinum but will go to another synthetic if it is one sale. Never really noticed much of difference in consumption but the standard M1 seemed to be some of the worst. The PAO M1 Extended Performance seemed to do much better. I have found that a lot of short trips tends to consume more oil.
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Great information all, thank you for your input!
I use the 5W-50 mostly because old habits die hard. I used Castrol 20W-50 in my first car back in 1983 ('69 Chevelle, 307CI small block) and over the years switched to the 20-W50 full synthetic. Castrol changed the 20W-50 to 5W-50 a few years ago. I know the recommended oil is 5W-20. I have tried running 10W-30 synthetic but my engine goes through it a lot faster than the higher viscosity oil. I have not tried conventional 10W-30. I've stubbornly fostered the opinion that higher viscosity is better than lower, especially when engines get some miles on them. With todays tighter manufacturing tolerances, that way of thinking may be way off base, but it has served me pretty well so far.
I like the idea of the TimeSert's for the spark plug holes. This is the first I have heard of this option.
It sounds like at the very least I should have the heads rebuilt with TimeSert's and either switch to conventional oil or live with the consumption of synthetic. Option #2 would be to replace the engine with an '03 or '04.
Do I understand the advice correctly?
I use the 5W-50 mostly because old habits die hard. I used Castrol 20W-50 in my first car back in 1983 ('69 Chevelle, 307CI small block) and over the years switched to the 20-W50 full synthetic. Castrol changed the 20W-50 to 5W-50 a few years ago. I know the recommended oil is 5W-20. I have tried running 10W-30 synthetic but my engine goes through it a lot faster than the higher viscosity oil. I have not tried conventional 10W-30. I've stubbornly fostered the opinion that higher viscosity is better than lower, especially when engines get some miles on them. With todays tighter manufacturing tolerances, that way of thinking may be way off base, but it has served me pretty well so far.
I like the idea of the TimeSert's for the spark plug holes. This is the first I have heard of this option.
It sounds like at the very least I should have the heads rebuilt with TimeSert's and either switch to conventional oil or live with the consumption of synthetic. Option #2 would be to replace the engine with an '03 or '04.
Do I understand the advice correctly?
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2007
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I don't mean to offend you, but you are killing your engine by using the wrong oil. You mentioned tight tolerances in these engines so use the proper weight oil and I bet your blow by will go away and you might get better fuel economy.
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From: Isanti, MN
I agree with the others, you may have done permanent damage to your engine with your extremely thick engine oil. I've heard of problems with draining down from the head and oil starvation as a result.
Thicker oil isn't better. The CORRECT oil is better.
Thicker oil isn't better. The CORRECT oil is better.