Hey everyone, I recently got my first diesel, and i gotta say i love it, she's rough, not a daily driver, but i'm definitely keeping her till she's exactly what i have her lookin like in my head. 1986 f250 6.9L 4x4.
I just wanted to say hey as i've been reading these forums and they have answered quite a few of the questions that i have had already, so why not join up?
Anyways, yes she's very rough on the outside, shoot even the interior isn't a diamond, i'll try to get some pictures up sometime, but right now i'm focusing on getting her in perfect mechanical condition. The list of things i am concerned about fixing are as follows:
1. Fix white smoke at start up and while driving.
I have filled a new filter with diesel kleen and diesel fuel and started her and am waiting a day or so to run it through her a little bit.
2. Replace oil pan gasket.
I have read a thread i believe on here about how to do this, basically pulling the engine without pulling it, jack it up a till the trans hits the firewall and sitting it on blocks. that will be the hardest task i think.
3. New throw out bearing and input shaft bearing.
This i'm not sure how to do at all, though i really do not want to because it will be expensive and i would much rather know hwo to do it myself, i may have to take it to a shop for this.
4. Fix clicking in front driver side wheel
I've heard the needle bearing is the culprit? something along those lines?
5. replace drivers side valve cover gasket
thank goodness that's the easy one to do and it isn't leaking very bad.

That's all as of right now to get her running up to my standards, as i prepare to do some of this i'm tackling the rust, and she has a bounty of just that, russssssst. Previous owner used her to plow snow in the winter and thats about it. Let me know if anyone has some advice on any of the fixes i have listed orrrrrr on getting really really stubborn rust out of the hood and roof. i'd appreciate it.
Just wanted to say hey to everyone! Happy to be here!

 

only use RTV on the oil pan. that is what they had from the factory.

 

i've heard! thanks, now to get it off...

 

welcome Eallend7, as you already know there are many knowledgable ppl on this forum.

 

for the throwout and input shaft bearings, you probably already know that you're dropping the transmission for the job. from there, its pretty straightforward. may as well replace the whole clutch kit while you're at it. plenty of threads here about the flywheel too, which is a point to consider when looking at a clutch. i'll let you search and read up on that, as i'm no expert.
the input shaft bearing isn't as scary to do as you think. i've rebuilt several manual transmissions at home. but i haven't done a t19, which is what i think yours would have. most models simply require you to remove the piece that supports the throwout bearing, and then just slide the bearing out. naturally, a new seal would be advised.

 

Thanks josh, yeah i am a little bit nervous about this, but when the time comes ill be sure to post about it, take my time, and remember what goes where haha. Thanks i was wondering about what else i should do while i was doing all that work, so input shaft and throwout bearings, as well as a new clutch kit, and i have read up some about the flywheel, can't remember which mine has but both men before me were old timers so i doubt they have modded it like i read about, if it's a dm. when you say new seal you mean a new seal foooooooorrrr.?

 

the seal i spoke of was the transmission input shaft seal, just forward of the bearing

 

Its a stick and you need to pull the tranny youd be better off just pulling the engine out to do the pan gasket front seal and rear seal,Then saying screw it and do all of them and have no oil leaks if your going to turbo it do the head gaskets too 125.00 of well worth it,If your carefull the intake valley pan is reusable if its in good condition and you use the right silicone,Do the injectors and return caps too.

And the bonus is you get to see if the engines in good condition and clean, Then the engines done for a good long while.

 

Thats what I was thinking, need clutch work and an oil pan gasket, pull the engine. It sucks pulling an oil pan in the truck.

 

thanks for the responses guys. what i've read about the oil pan gasket is that you have to "pull the motor" without completely pulling it, just jacking it up a few inches till the tranny hits the firewall, true? easier way? or just completely pull it to get everything you guys are talking about done

 

since you have to seperate the engine from the tranny for the throwout bearing and related work, that requires that you pull either the engine or the tranny, and with the oil pan and other work planned, i'd vote for removing the engine to make it all easier

 

I have a haynes manual that pretty well tells me how to pull the engine, but do yall have any tips or tricks? i know theres no many tricks to it haha, but i'd loev any advice, kinda nervous goin into this. i don't want to mess anything up. also theres nothing in here about the tranny. any books out there for ford f250 transmissions, seen one for automatics but none for T 19, any advice?

 

i haven't pulled a diesel myself, but it should be no different than gassers i've pulled. remove fan and radiator and all belt-driven accessories from the front of the engine, leaving fluid lines attached for PS and AC, tying them aside with wire, bungee cords, or straps. disconnect all wires and secure them safely to the top of the engine, or to the body out of harm's way, or entirely removed. remove nuts holding engine mounts to frame. remove hard-to-reach engine-to-bellhousing bolts, leaving easy to reach lower bolts in place for now. remove clutch inspection plate (bottom) and starter. remove whatever else i haven't mentioned (exhaust, fuel lines, etc) as needed. attach an engine hoist of sufficient strength to lift points, using a load leveling device. remove the hood before this. lift engine off its mounts, get the hoist positioned in the best possible place at this time. remove the remaining block-to-bellhousing bolts and support the transmission to it isn't putting funny forces on the transmission input shaft. slide engine forward a couple inches out of the tranny. now carefully lift it up and out, watching carefully for any chance of unwanted contact against anything still attached to the truck.
note: this may not have been in the ideal order to attack things, do what makes sense...oh yeah, and pull the batteries first

 

Thanks josh, typed just like a real life manual d: thats how it puts it too, ill give it a try one day, have to get me an engine hoist. i think i should invest in one anyways, or i might go rent, we'll see. Best place to attach the hoist to? never done that before hah, makin sure all my little ducks are in a row before i tackle mama duck

 

there are supposed to be 2 lift points attached to the intake manifold bolts. look for them next time you have the air cleaner off