Engine Break In
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Townsend, MT
Engine Break In
I have my freshly built 416 finished and ready to be installed (waiting on steering gear parts). It has an Elgin hydraulic flat tappet cam and forged pistons.
I have read that for the first 20 minutes after it is fired and has oil pressure, I need to slowly vary the RPM's from 2,000 to 3,000 to break the cam in. Is this good?
What is the best procedure to seat the rings?
I have read that for the first 20 minutes after it is fired and has oil pressure, I need to slowly vary the RPM's from 2,000 to 3,000 to break the cam in. Is this good?
What is the best procedure to seat the rings?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
Yup, vary the RPM. Don't let it idle. Keep an eye on water temp, use a fan if it gets warm, but keep it running.
Did you use any additives? Anymore it's worth the few bucks to dump in the oil. Anything will help. Is this a stock type cam? Nothing big on spring pressure? My shop always removes the inner spring for break in. DON'T OVER REV IT!! Then once it's broke in, replace inner springs. Take some of the hit out off the cam. Depends on spring pressures.
As for ring seating? Just drive it normally. Vary your road speed as much as possible(don't just cruise at highway speed for hours). Don't overdo it, but then again, do apply power to build cylinder pressure and force the rings against the cylinders.
Enjoy.
Did you use any additives? Anymore it's worth the few bucks to dump in the oil. Anything will help. Is this a stock type cam? Nothing big on spring pressure? My shop always removes the inner spring for break in. DON'T OVER REV IT!! Then once it's broke in, replace inner springs. Take some of the hit out off the cam. Depends on spring pressures.
As for ring seating? Just drive it normally. Vary your road speed as much as possible(don't just cruise at highway speed for hours). Don't overdo it, but then again, do apply power to build cylinder pressure and force the rings against the cylinders.
Enjoy.
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,104
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From: Southern California
I have my freshly built 416 finished and ready to be installed (waiting on steering gear parts). It has an Elgin hydraulic flat tappet cam and forged pistons.
I have read that for the first 20 minutes after it is fired and has oil pressure, I need to slowly vary the RPM's from 2,000 to 3,000 to break the cam in. Is this good?
What is the best procedure to seat the rings?
I have read that for the first 20 minutes after it is fired and has oil pressure, I need to slowly vary the RPM's from 2,000 to 3,000 to break the cam in. Is this good?
What is the best procedure to seat the rings?
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,522
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From: Townsend, MT
The machine shop I got the pistons and bearings from gave (let me buy) me 6 quarts of Joe Gibbs break in oil. They said it had plenty of zinc. I also got a few bottles of zddp additive for the first few changes.
I also read to lay on it fairly hard and then let it coast after the first 100 miles to 1,000 miles. Is this good?
I also read to lay on it fairly hard and then let it coast after the first 100 miles to 1,000 miles. Is this good?
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Middle Tn.
After the proper cam break in which the guys gave good info you then want to vary the load and rpm's for the first 500 miles. After that if everything was good on assembly you are good to go. During the cam break in have a buddy with you checking for leaks or anything visually abnormal while you watch the gauges and hold the rpm's. If leaks or any problems are found, shut it off rather than let it idle. After the problem is corrected, restart and continue the cam break in process.
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2011
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From: Northern California
I am gonna be rebuilding my 390 in the not to distant future. This useful information. Makes me ask though... How did all this stuff occur when these engines were sold new? Did Ford really leave it to customers to break in the engines or did they do it inhouse before installing them in the vehicle?
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I remember my dad saying he was told to vary the speed during "break in" for the '66 wagon with the 390 2v. So yes, people were expected to break in their new vehicles and thought nothing of it as that's the way it had always been. 
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,104
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From: Southern California
I am gonna be rebuilding my 390 in the not to distant future. This useful information. Makes me ask though... How did all this stuff occur when these engines were sold new? Did Ford really leave it to customers to break in the engines or did they do it inhouse before installing them in the vehicle?
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 540
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The cam/lifters is broken in after the 20 mins @ 2000-2500 rpm....it takes (depending on the type of rings) up to 1000 miles for the rings to fully seat....the key here is do not let the rpms drop below 1300 or so....lugging, even the slightest hint reduces the seating just the same as running too high a rpm...initially keep the rpms between 1500-2000....after 50 miles dump the oil, flush the cooling system, the next 500 miles, bring the rpms up to 3k.
Thanks for askin the question 1972RedNeck. It was high on my list to ask in my own thread!!!
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,104
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From: Southern California
This is great information. I am about to add a Comp Cams 268H cam and their 940-16 single springs to my engine. If I am leaving the bottom end alone (hopefully!!) all i need to do is the 20min at btwn 2000 and 2500 RPM with the zinc additive oil or ZDDP additive? And as these are single springs the cam break in can be completed after they are installed with no swapping of components after break in?
Thanks for askin the question 1972RedNeck. It was high on my list to ask in my own thread!!!
Thanks for askin the question 1972RedNeck. It was high on my list to ask in my own thread!!!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
I always heard break it in like you want to use it. I had about 300 miles on my rebuild, hooked a U-Haul trailer to the truck & pulled my son's goods from Durham NC to Atlanta Ga. I was hammering it pretty good around 75 mph. the last 150 miles. Darn head lights kept tripping off. Got busy on the Whiter Brighter headlight upgrade shortly afterwards.
The ol boy still runs with the big dogs in the leed pack.
John
The ol boy still runs with the big dogs in the leed pack.
John
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,104
Likes: 384
From: Southern California
I always heard break it in like you want to use it. I had about 300 miles on my rebuild, hooked a U-Haul trailer to the truck & pulled my son's goods from Durham NC to Atlanta Ga. I was hammering it pretty good around 75 mph. the last 150 miles. Darn head lights kept tripping off. Got busy on the Whiter Brighter headlight upgrade shortly afterwards.
The ol boy still runs with the big dogs in the leed pack.
John
The ol boy still runs with the big dogs in the leed pack.
John
on a non-factory build, it is important not to beat on it.....the crank/cam bearings, piston pins, etc are still surfacing themselves. while true, a properly assembled engine should not "fall apart", driving as I previously stated, being "gentle" during the 1st 500 miles especially does make a extreme difference in the smoothness & longetivity of the engine. the longetivity comes from slowly generating metal particulates versus generating particulates in larger qualities caused as a result of the increased torsional loads caused from "jumping on it". With the frequent initial oil changes, this allows the particulates to be kept to a minimum and reduces the possibility of increased wear points (although minimal).