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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Injector O-Ring Help

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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 09:31 PM
  #16  
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From: Livoina,La
Do this test

97-15A 7.3L DI Turbo
 
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 10:02 PM
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I thought Glenn said that he occasionally puts his truck at RPMs like that for extended periods of time while pulling his trailer. Maybe he'll chime in about the relative safety of doing this, unless I am incorrect here.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2012 | 05:43 AM
  #18  
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Sorry, I'd never hold my foot to the floor for 3 minutes, whether or not the test is valid.

Instead, I'll use my $50 liquid filled 5000 psi mechanical gauge, plug of one port on the HPOP and put the gauge on the other port. Crank, take readings. If gauge reaches +-3700 psi or so, then the pump and IPR are fine.
Remove plug from HPOP and run HPOP line from pump to one head. Crank again, take reading.
If it reaches +-3700 psi again, that bank is fine. Repeat for other head. Somewhere in one of these 3 tests will show the leak.
Waaaay more accurate than holding at WOT for 3 mintues.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2012 | 08:55 AM
  #19  
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Sure scares me.there is too much mass in one of these for that rpm unloaded.
i have seen the tech i used to work with wot test but it always worried me honestly.especially 3 mins eesh
 
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Old Oct 6, 2012 | 08:56 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by BuckHammer
I thought Glenn said that he occasionally puts his truck at RPMs like that for extended periods of time while pulling his trailer. Maybe he'll chime in about the relative safety of doing this, unless I am incorrect here.
Loaded is different than just still i think.and the air is flowing at the rad also.pretty brutal either way
 
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Old Dec 3, 2012 | 06:32 PM
  #21  
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Sooooo....what was the resolution to this problem?


I hate taking the time to read only to come up short, like reading a good book only to find out the last chapter has bewen tore out...especially when it seems to be heading in a direction that may help uncover a nugget of information or a solution that could help me...only to have the trail go cold.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 06:41 AM
  #22  
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Well,, it's way better but not great. Put in the T500 and she would not pop on the warm start. Turned out that after I drove it a day, it would pop after warm but with an extended crank and another day or so, that crank time shortened to a normal 2 sec crank which was good.

I ran a CCT and failed 3 & 5 whereas it passed multiple times ( cold & hot) before the HPOP replacement. Frustrated and still having the shudder between 12-1800 rpm I broke down ans took it to the dealer to diagnose and pinpoint the area of trouble. Their break-out box and such, eliminated the PCM, IDM, engine harness, IPR & ICP. They ended up replacing the ICP which I had bought from them a couple months before and had the problem down to the right side. I pulled the vc the next day and noticed 3 & 5 pouring out oil from the spouts. Why I didnt notice it before the HPOP replace redoing the o-rings, I havent a clue especially knowing that all cylinders passed the CCV musltiple times. In retrospect, I believe that the massive increase in HPOP pressure from the new T500, made this possible to see and was also able to overcome the leak with increased pressure and was able to create the 550 psi needed to make it pop over on the hot starts even with a leak at the seals.

Called up Clay and ordered the reman stage 1's and received them in 3 days! Put them in the morning of the noreaster outside in the driveway being a bit cold in the falling snow but got em done.

The 12-1800 rpm shudder went away but a new shudder came to play with decelleration. It varies in the 1000 - 1400rpm range and is a very fast bucking as the engine winds down without throttle but not always. Not sure if a chip would resolve this. Increased power is more than I imagined though which is really nice. I dont believe the new injectors are at fault here though.

After a week, I ran a CCT and 3 & 5 failed again. ran it again over next couple weeks and all the same failure. this is what i think...
When I put in the new stage1's, I noticed some carbonization in those cups and tried my best w/o a brush to remove it all but was unable. Noreaster in play and fingers going numb, I still put them in even though the carbon wasnt completely removed. So that airspace allowed that carbon to form I think and created the original no-hot start condition and if the o-rings are'nt completely sealed now, it probably is contributing to this rapid shudder I sometimes get on decellerating. I plan to find a warm garage somewhere and redo 3 & 5 but I'll have to find a cup brush first. Any thoughts?

BTW, even with a rebuilt bowl,clean screens, EBP sensor and cleaned out tube, Stanadyne with every tank fill, and all this new stuff, my milage has gone down the toilet! what the heck is that about?
 
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