Started wont shut off!
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Started wont shut off!
I drive a 74' Bronco and I have problem. I replaced the starter last week and it was running. I melted the one wire and replaced it today and when i started it up the car would start but once it turns on the starter wont shut off like it is suppose to. I turn the key off and its still trying to start with no key in so I have to disconnect the battery. Anybody have any ideas of how to fix it? and a good place to buy parts for it?
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From: Lawrence Swamp
could B manya thing electrical
shorted ing., crossed wires or general short in starting sys, wired wrong by U @ install?
Good luck, keep talkin
Good luck, keep talkin
Logistics Pro
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From: Lawrence Swamp
could B manya thing electrical
by the way welcome to the site and forum!!!
how long ya had the bronk, do U have some auto. ele. experience?
I think 20 more posts & you can post a pic of the engine bay & we can see what's up. these rigs R 40 yrs old & can't expect the wiring to B in good shape.
how long ya had the bronk, do U have some auto. ele. experience?
I think 20 more posts & you can post a pic of the engine bay & we can see what's up. these rigs R 40 yrs old & can't expect the wiring to B in good shape.
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I've had the bronco about 7 months had a new engine put in and did all the body work replaced new floors rust ect. Kinda learning as I go. Everything but the wiring has been replaced and that's now the problem ( of course). Thanks for the help everyone I'm going to try everything and I'll let you know and get pictures up once it is running again.
Logistics Pro
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From: Lawrence Swamp
well, U sure sound capable!
The electrics is the toughest part for me. Need more theory understanding etc.
I suggest you start at one end, go all the way to that end and work back. Hopin into the middle never worked for me.
Ie test the solinoid for operation, look @ the wire for crosses, keep goin toward the ingn. key...
The electrics is the toughest part for me. Need more theory understanding etc.
I suggest you start at one end, go all the way to that end and work back. Hopin into the middle never worked for me.
Ie test the solinoid for operation, look @ the wire for crosses, keep goin toward the ingn. key...
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I got my solonoid tested today they said it was fine so I'm going to try the ignition switch tomorrow if that doesn't work then I think my starter wire has too much power
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,776
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From: Lorain County, Ohio
Your starter relay (It's not really a solenoid but everybody calls it that) is staying engaged.
If you had a melted cable from the relay to the starter, the relay is probably damaged internally by the excessive current draw that damaged the cable. Burning/pitting of the contacts causes it to stick under load. Unless the test was done under load, the "good" result doesn't mean anything.
One way to check this is to:
-disable the ignition (pull the coil wire).
-Crank the engine over to engage the relay.
-If the engine still cranks when you release the key, pull the wire off of the small connector on the relay. (Pull both if you have a 2-post relay.)
--If the engine stops cranking, you have a problem with the crank circuit from the ignition switch.
--If the engine continues to crank with the wire disconnected, the relay is damaged internally and needs to be replaced.
I've noticed lately that the quality of aftermarket Ford external starter relays, even from the "good" parts stores, is slipping. I've replaced a few due to sticking and had them fail within months with the same symptoms even when the rest of the system was up to par. The relays from the "discount" chains often stick within days or weeks. Keep this in mind if you need to replace the relay.
You can't have "too much power" in your starter wire.
If you had a melted cable from the relay to the starter, the relay is probably damaged internally by the excessive current draw that damaged the cable. Burning/pitting of the contacts causes it to stick under load. Unless the test was done under load, the "good" result doesn't mean anything.
One way to check this is to:
-disable the ignition (pull the coil wire).
-Crank the engine over to engage the relay.
-If the engine still cranks when you release the key, pull the wire off of the small connector on the relay. (Pull both if you have a 2-post relay.)
--If the engine stops cranking, you have a problem with the crank circuit from the ignition switch.
--If the engine continues to crank with the wire disconnected, the relay is damaged internally and needs to be replaced.
I've noticed lately that the quality of aftermarket Ford external starter relays, even from the "good" parts stores, is slipping. I've replaced a few due to sticking and had them fail within months with the same symptoms even when the rest of the system was up to par. The relays from the "discount" chains often stick within days or weeks. Keep this in mind if you need to replace the relay.
You can't have "too much power" in your starter wire.
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From: Lawrence Swamp
too much power
Congrats! Glad U could trace down the problem AND fix it...
Still not sure about "t.m.p."
Still not sure about "t.m.p."
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The diagnostic tests suggested by the moderator is right on! The small connector on the side of the cable that goes to the starter I believe you'll only find on engines that came w/ point distributor. If I remember correctly it goes to the positive side of the ignition coil, bypassing the ballast resistor, to supply battery voltage to the coil to give it a hotter spark while starting. When engine starts and you let key return to run position the coil is now getting reduced voltage. The quality of replacement starter solenoids is terrible, always keep the battery fully charged and don't try to start the truck w/ a low battery or you will create excessive current through the solenoid and fuse the contacts together and end up w/ the same problem.
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From: Lawrence Swamp
All good info, I'm learnin!
As a part time prts guy at the big box stores I can affirm the "lousy prts" comment.
I'd suggest for electrics - go expensive (unfortunatly) and Moog seems to be a good value (altho expensive). Ford and Bosch may be good as well but I personally can't attest to that.
As a part time prts guy at the big box stores I can affirm the "lousy prts" comment.
I'd suggest for electrics - go expensive (unfortunatly) and Moog seems to be a good value (altho expensive). Ford and Bosch may be good as well but I personally can't attest to that.
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