Torque Spec's
#17
Just did mine last weekend. They aren't as bad as they look, the whole job took me less than two hours with me taking my time with each one of them. Make sure you have some different length extensions as well as a good spark plug socket and torque wrench. Can't stress the torque wrench enough, these things have to be torqued right or they can be blown out and strip the hole!
#18
#19
The spec for the plugs is 7-14 ft-lbs, but the Bosch plugs that I installed asked for 15. I torqued all mine to 14.
The ignition coil packs have one small bolt that holds them down, which requires an 8MM socket IIRC, and that requires 44-62 in-lbs.
You will want to use your small in-lb torque wrench for this one, as it's much more accurate at these low torque values. 14 ft-lbs = 168 in-lbs.
The ignition coil packs have one small bolt that holds them down, which requires an 8MM socket IIRC, and that requires 44-62 in-lbs.
You will want to use your small in-lb torque wrench for this one, as it's much more accurate at these low torque values. 14 ft-lbs = 168 in-lbs.
#21
They seem to be running just great, but it seems like most people on here recommend Motorcraft plugs over all else. I bought the Platinum Plus plugs from Rockauto.com; right now they have a rebate deal so they were a good deal.
If I had any common sense I guess I would have, but I neglected to do this as well as change out the plug boots when I did mine. I had no misfire concerns before the change or after, and I'll be doing the boots at some point down the road.
Originally Posted by 2002 Excursion
Do you put the electronic gel on the coil packs terminals when you re-connect them?
Harvey
Harvey
#22
Join Date: Mar 2009
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Don't forget the boots and anything you put on the plugs will change the torque value. I never torque mine but that's just me. Plugs blow out from being too tight or too loose so allow yourself a window of time to do it with no distractions and do one at a time. 10 plugs=more chance of missing one, or getting one finger tight, or not all depending on your method.
#23
I've never changed plugs on a V10, but the one's on a Gen 2 Lightning can be a challenge until you get used to it, because of the supercharger.
One of the things I bought that made the job easier was a permanently connected swivel extension set of spark plug sockets with magnetic heads to hold the plug .
Dunno if this set from KD Tools would help you guys are not, but having that magnetic head really helps to start the plug in the plug hole.
Stewart
One of the things I bought that made the job easier was a permanently connected swivel extension set of spark plug sockets with magnetic heads to hold the plug .
Dunno if this set from KD Tools would help you guys are not, but having that magnetic head really helps to start the plug in the plug hole.
Stewart
#25
Not sure I've seen that done on these, the newer 3V modular engines had a problem with a two-piece plug coming apart when changed. Anti-seize is a great idea on these because of that, but the 2V V10s have never had a problem with this. The problem with these is the plugs blowing out of the heads, which is something that I wouldn't think anti-seize would help with. Of course I've been wrong before, can you provide a link?
#28
Good call Brent.
#29
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THIS. Now it's coming back to me, whenever you lubricate threads applying the same amount of torque results in vastly increased clamping force. Meaning lubricating the threads could cause you to strip the hole even though you are applying the factory specified torque.
Good call Brent.
Good call Brent.