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Old Sep 21, 2012 | 11:20 AM
  #16  
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Question Torque Spec's

Thank you all for your info. Have you ever changed your spark plugs?
The front 6 don't look so hard but the back 4 look iffy. Any suggestion's?
 
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Old Sep 21, 2012 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by 2002 Excursion
Thank you all for your info. Have you ever changed your spark plugs?
The front 6 don't look so hard but the back 4 look iffy. Any suggestion's?
Just did mine last weekend. They aren't as bad as they look, the whole job took me less than two hours with me taking my time with each one of them. Make sure you have some different length extensions as well as a good spark plug socket and torque wrench. Can't stress the torque wrench enough, these things have to be torqued right or they can be blown out and strip the hole!
 
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Old Sep 21, 2012 | 11:55 AM
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Hi Tom,
Do you need to take anything off to get at the back plugs?
What are the torgue spec's for the plugs? What size torque wrench will I need?
I have a 12" inLb & 18" ftlb wrenches.
Harvey
 
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Old Sep 21, 2012 | 12:02 PM
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The spec for the plugs is 7-14 ft-lbs, but the Bosch plugs that I installed asked for 15. I torqued all mine to 14.

The ignition coil packs have one small bolt that holds them down, which requires an 8MM socket IIRC, and that requires 44-62 in-lbs.

You will want to use your small in-lb torque wrench for this one, as it's much more accurate at these low torque values. 14 ft-lbs = 168 in-lbs.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2012 | 12:13 PM
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Hi Tom,
How do you like the Bosch plugs? I use them in my Jeep.
Do you put the electronic gel on the coil packs terminals when you re-connect them?
Harvey
 
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Old Sep 21, 2012 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 2002 Excursion
Hi Tom,
How do you like the Bosch plugs? I use them in my Jeep.
They seem to be running just great, but it seems like most people on here recommend Motorcraft plugs over all else. I bought the Platinum Plus plugs from Rockauto.com; right now they have a rebate deal so they were a good deal.

Originally Posted by 2002 Excursion
Do you put the electronic gel on the coil packs terminals when you re-connect them?
Harvey
If I had any common sense I guess I would have, but I neglected to do this as well as change out the plug boots when I did mine. I had no misfire concerns before the change or after, and I'll be doing the boots at some point down the road.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2012 | 12:22 PM
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Don't forget the boots and anything you put on the plugs will change the torque value. I never torque mine but that's just me. Plugs blow out from being too tight or too loose so allow yourself a window of time to do it with no distractions and do one at a time. 10 plugs=more chance of missing one, or getting one finger tight, or not all depending on your method.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2012 | 12:29 PM
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I've never changed plugs on a V10, but the one's on a Gen 2 Lightning can be a challenge until you get used to it, because of the supercharger.

One of the things I bought that made the job easier was a permanently connected swivel extension set of spark plug sockets with magnetic heads to hold the plug .



Dunno if this set from KD Tools would help you guys are not, but having that magnetic head really helps to start the plug in the plug hole.

Stewart
 
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Old Sep 21, 2012 | 12:32 PM
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I've seen on other forums where they say to put anti-seize on the upper plug threads.
I've never done this on any of my vehicles. Is that a good thing or a bad thing?
 
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Old Sep 21, 2012 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 2002 Excursion
I've seen on other forums where they say to put anti-seize on the upper plug threads.
I've never done this on any of my vehicles. Is that a good thing or a bad thing?
Not sure I've seen that done on these, the newer 3V modular engines had a problem with a two-piece plug coming apart when changed. Anti-seize is a great idea on these because of that, but the 2V V10s have never had a problem with this. The problem with these is the plugs blowing out of the heads, which is something that I wouldn't think anti-seize would help with. Of course I've been wrong before, can you provide a link?
 
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Old Sep 21, 2012 | 12:59 PM
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I think Ford recommends dry and anti-seize will cause the reading to be less than it is. I put a narrow strip of duct tape inside my socket and tape the socket to the extension. It will last for the job at least.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2012 | 01:04 PM
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That's what I thought.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2012 | 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by EXv10
I think Ford recommends dry and anti-seize will cause the reading to be less than it is. I put a narrow strip of duct tape inside my socket and tape the socket to the extension. It will last for the job at least.
THIS. Now it's coming back to me, whenever you lubricate threads applying the same amount of torque results in vastly increased clamping force. Meaning lubricating the threads could cause you to strip the hole even though you are applying the factory specified torque.

Good call Brent.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2012 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Crazy001
THIS. Now it's coming back to me, whenever you lubricate threads applying the same amount of torque results in vastly increased clamping force. Meaning lubricating the threads could cause you to strip the hole even though you are applying the factory specified torque.

Good call Brent.
Exactly, I've been mentioning this for years but I don't think anyone is grasping it. It's like trying to hold onto a heavy part with oil on it, you have to squeeze harder to hang onto it. I think the plugs pop out because of this or one is left finger tight.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2012 | 03:27 PM
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Hi Tom,
I forgot to ask. What setting would you recommend for the rear differential covers bolts?
33??? 35???
Thanks Harvey
 
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