'86 Brake bleeding questions
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,282
Likes: 4
From: Oregon
The bleeders are always anyone's guess after the calipers or cylinders have been changed over the years. I had a truck that had a 1/4, a 10mm, a 3/8s and one bleeder that had rounded off and been filed so only a small open end wrench would work.
I'd recommend buying new. No fun to buy something that's of unknown quality at the yard and having to pull it all back out, or it making you think that's not the problem. It's an easy install. Like I said before, make sure to soak all the nuts mounting it to the firewall (inside the cab) and the nuts holding the master to it in advance, makes it a much easier job.
I'd recommend buying new. No fun to buy something that's of unknown quality at the yard and having to pull it all back out, or it making you think that's not the problem. It's an easy install. Like I said before, make sure to soak all the nuts mounting it to the firewall (inside the cab) and the nuts holding the master to it in advance, makes it a much easier job.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Bend, Oregon
Looks like there's an over 8500 lb GVW model and under 8500 lb, which one would I want?
I don't have a lot of money right now and couldn't get a new one for a couple weeks. It might be worth it for me if I could find one that's used, would there be any way of testing one at a junk yard, or anything that would indicate it's not functioning?
In the future I'd love to get a new one it's just I'm a college student without much income, and I've already got to get tires and a CDR valve.
I don't have a lot of money right now and couldn't get a new one for a couple weeks. It might be worth it for me if I could find one that's used, would there be any way of testing one at a junk yard, or anything that would indicate it's not functioning?
In the future I'd love to get a new one it's just I'm a college student without much income, and I've already got to get tires and a CDR valve.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Bend, Oregon
So I'm going to check the wrecking yard soon to see if they've got one, can't really afford a new one at the moment and I'm getting tired of driving it this way.
What years and models are compatible with my 86 6.9? Also is there any way to test whether it might work, or any indications?
What years and models are compatible with my 86 6.9? Also is there any way to test whether it might work, or any indications?
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,282
Likes: 4
From: Oregon
Ouch, I can see why after checking Autozone... $90 is not cheap. If you're pulling one from the yard, make sure they have a return policy, never know what you're going to get.
Another option is to keep an eye out for a good Hydroboost setup. I pulled one with one of the lines for $30, had it installed in about the same time as a stock setup, and ran me cheaper than a new stock booster. Stops 10x better than the stock setup, and got rid of the vacuum pump. Just keep an eye out for a large Ford van or box truck.
On the bench:
And in the truck:
Another option is to keep an eye out for a good Hydroboost setup. I pulled one with one of the lines for $30, had it installed in about the same time as a stock setup, and ran me cheaper than a new stock booster. Stops 10x better than the stock setup, and got rid of the vacuum pump. Just keep an eye out for a large Ford van or box truck.
On the bench:
And in the truck:
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Bend, Oregon
I think that someday I may want to go with the hydrobooster, had read in other threads that it's a good upgrade. But for now I just want to keep the stock setup. I called the auto yard here and it'd only be $30 for a brake booster, they pull it and there's a 30 day guarantee. Sounds like a good deal and I plan on taking them up on it.
First I was going to ask how confident are you that the booster is the problem? Like I said there is vacuum going to the booster but I'm not sure how much. Should I get a cheap vacuum meter from harbor freight first? Also I've been thinking about it and every time I start up, the pedal gets soft and goes down. When pumping it beforehand I'm not certain it does this any more or different than usual startup.
Worst case I buy this booster and it doesn't work and I return it. Only then I still won't know whether it was a bad booster or that's not my problem!
First I was going to ask how confident are you that the booster is the problem? Like I said there is vacuum going to the booster but I'm not sure how much. Should I get a cheap vacuum meter from harbor freight first? Also I've been thinking about it and every time I start up, the pedal gets soft and goes down. When pumping it beforehand I'm not certain it does this any more or different than usual startup.
Worst case I buy this booster and it doesn't work and I return it. Only then I still won't know whether it was a bad booster or that's not my problem!
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
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here would be a good one. IMHO a vac guage is a must on a diesel that does not have h-boost.
Buy Sunpro Mechanical Vacuum Gauge CP7978 at Advance Auto Parts
Buy Sunpro Mechanical Vacuum Gauge CP7978 at Advance Auto Parts
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Bend, Oregon
Do you figure this one from Harbor Freight would work as good? It's a little cheaper, and I know a lot of their products are total crap but some aren't bad.
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