Where to start? I'm the original owner of 1997 f350 7.3 PSD with 180K miles. It is stock except for a K&N Air filter in the stock filter housing. THe truck has been well maintained. It used to run great and tow even better but in the last 20K miles it has no more power than a normally aspirated v-8. I no longer hear the turbo spool up. Unfortunately it's my powerless stroke. I have unplugged the MAP sensor and it does not make any power difference. Yes the Map Hose is clear. It seemed to run slightly smoother at idle with the MAP connected.

If started daily she fires up by 2-3 revolutions. I live in south Texas temp ranges 35-105. No noticeable smoke either blue, white or black.

My mechanic retired and the prices I've been quoted at shops are unbelievable. Before he left a few months ago he ran computer diagnostics and said it checked out Okay. I know very little but I am here hoping to learn for you all. Where do I start? I have no scanning /test equipment as of yet. All your thoughts are appreciated!<O</O
Thanks
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Welcome to FTE! Check the UVCH plugs for burnt pins. There are four electrical plugs that go through the valve cover gaskets to the glow plugs and injectors. Pull each one off and inspect both parts for burnt pins.

 

X2 on the uvch pins being burnt. Also as for your complaint about the turbo, take the intake boot off and check the turbo wheel for play/ movement. Is your truck equiped with a cat? If so a clogged cat can cause loss of power.

 

Thanks Bill!
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comffice" /><o></o> All 4 plugs and the pins inside each look very good. It seems like there was a recall/update on those performed by Ford. Not sure why "ffice" />>> " appears in message

 

Maybe your fuel pressure regulator (FPR) screen is dirty. Do you still have the orginal orange boot on your turbo, I've heard it can colape staving the motor of air. Also, do you have your EBPR unpluged, the flap in there can close a little.

 

Cleaned K&N air filter to make sure all the easy stuff is out of the way. I took the boot off today while checking side to side play on turbo. I have a new boots on order! There was not any side to side play on the turbo and what I could see of the intake turbo wheel looked okay. I was told to properly check out these wheels I need to disassembly the turbo housing??????????? Is that true? I also inspected the up pipes from the heads to manifolds up to behind the collection point at the turbo. I did not find any soot at any of these connections. There was soot at the part that bolts to the exhaust of the turbo before the down pipe.

Interesting that the motor does not rev beyond 2500 rpms.

I will check into these next steps over the weekend. Thanks for the help!

 

If the end play on the turbo is good you do not have to take the turbo apart! The soot you mentioned you probably just need a new clamp there or tighten the one you have. This leak will not cause your problem.

 

Did it have any in/out play in the wheel, besides the side to side? Any "dusting" of the wheel, or any chips in it? This is the condition mine was in after running a K&N for a few years, the dusting and chips that is. I never had in/out play. In/out play is bad.

 

If the engine won't rev past 2500 RPM, I am going to take a WAG and say you have a High Pressure Oil issue. IPR, Injector O-rings, weak HPOP, etc.

Is the fuel filter all black?

 

Thanks everyone for their help!<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = /><o></o>
You are going to laugh I am very new to working on this truck! As such I have to ask lots of questions. Is a dusted wheel actually dusty? Please explain. There were No chips in the part of the wheel I could see on intake side. I tried to move the turbo shaft back and forth (side to side) in the housing and there is no play side to side. What is in and out movement? I have to install a new air intake boot so I can look at it again.<o></o>
The EBPR (Exhaust Back Pressure Regulator) I have not changed from stock. Can this normally be moved by hand when the truck is cold and not running? <o></o>

 

I've read I have to use a mirror to see the fuel pressure regulator screen?

 

Bullwinkle, The fuel filters are clear. So how do I verify the issues you listed?

 

A "dusted" turbo looks rough like it has been sandblasted.

If the fuel filter is clean and doesn't look black (which usually is an indicator of leaking injector o-rings) I would start looking at the HPO (High Pressure Oil) system.

You can do a couple things pretty easily. One is to check to see that the tin nut on the back of the IPR is tight. It is going to be at the front of the valley between the big square HPOP reservoir and the front of the fuel filter bowl. Follow the wiring harness for the IPR down there and you will feel a thin tin nut down in there. Wiggle the IPR gently and if the solenoid doesn't move around, you're probably fine. Beyond that the best bet is to either get your hands on a scanner that can show HPO pressures and IPR duty cycle or to build a manual gauge that you can put on the system to see what kind of pressure you're building. The scanner would be the easier route, but it takes a good scanner (Auto Enginuity, or an Aeroforce Scangauge seem to be the most popular options around here) to read these numbers. It's that or taking it to a good shop that has a good Snap-On scanner with the appropriate module to read a Powerstroke of this era. Otherwise you're pretty much stuck going the mechanical gauge route. Let me know if you decide to go this route and I will post the directions for building one.

 

Based on 97's question I might add to Nate's answer, if I may, that the turbo's blades are like the blades on a fan. If these blades or fins look like they have been sand blasted with little pits in them then the air filter has been leaking letting in dirt.

 

Nate and Glenn, I’m James. I sure appreciate the help. I thought my 97 was in great shape until I see yours! I have to get a picture of mine up here soon. I planned on the truck going at least 300K--400k not out of the question.

I like both the Auto Enginuity, or an Aeroforce Scangauge (Intercepter) From what I have been reading the Auto Enginuity is more of a diagnostic tool. Your thoughts?

I have a 5k psi fluid gauge so tell me about the mechanical test if you would be so kind. My purchase pace is slowed since I just laid out the cash for a new a/c.