skyjacker 2" vs 4"
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skyjacker 2" vs 4"
Item #F720KS-N / Skyjacker Suspensions
the 2" lift that supposedly is built for a highboy (assuming skyjacker knows trucks), is it direct bolt on? the PDF intallation guide shows its for 67-79, but i want to make sure they know the 73-76 were highboys. basically, i dont want to buy a 2" lift and end up being the same height i am now. which is why im not sure if i should get the 2" or 4".
im going to bite the bullet and buy a complete kit rather than piece together something. i dont have the time or patience if something were to go wrong or not fit and im stuck with no truck to drive.
who has experience with the skyjacker kits? my truck sits at a nasty rake more and more cause everything is so old and worn out. with the 2" lift, how much lift should i expect to measure from the current rake? is it 2" from a fresh stock height truck, or roughly 2" from a worn out rake?
cant really tell how bad the rake is in this picture, but it definitely needs about 2" or 3" in front and at least 1" in back
the 2" lift that supposedly is built for a highboy (assuming skyjacker knows trucks), is it direct bolt on? the PDF intallation guide shows its for 67-79, but i want to make sure they know the 73-76 were highboys. basically, i dont want to buy a 2" lift and end up being the same height i am now. which is why im not sure if i should get the 2" or 4".
im going to bite the bullet and buy a complete kit rather than piece together something. i dont have the time or patience if something were to go wrong or not fit and im stuck with no truck to drive.
who has experience with the skyjacker kits? my truck sits at a nasty rake more and more cause everything is so old and worn out. with the 2" lift, how much lift should i expect to measure from the current rake? is it 2" from a fresh stock height truck, or roughly 2" from a worn out rake?
cant really tell how bad the rake is in this picture, but it definitely needs about 2" or 3" in front and at least 1" in back
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Big Sky Country
The advertised lift is in reference to your trucks original factory ride height, not its current ride height, so a 2" lift may raise your front-end 4" over it's current ride height.
Highboys sat level from the factory, no rake, if you want a general idea how much the front is sagging measure from bottom of bumpstop to top of leaf pack, there was approx. 3-4" when new.
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The 67-77.5's are highboys but the instructions are the same for 67-79, the only difference is 77.5-79 lowboys have 3" wide rear springs, the highboys have 2.25" wide rear springs.
The advertised lift is in reference to your trucks original factory ride height, not its current ride height, so a 2" lift may raise your front-end 4" over it's current ride height.
Highboys sat level from the factory, no rake, if you want a general idea how much the front is sagging measure from bottom of bumpstop to top of leaf pack, there was approx. 3-4" when new.
The advertised lift is in reference to your trucks original factory ride height, not its current ride height, so a 2" lift may raise your front-end 4" over it's current ride height.
Highboys sat level from the factory, no rake, if you want a general idea how much the front is sagging measure from bottom of bumpstop to top of leaf pack, there was approx. 3-4" when new.
one more questions, the description says it comes with 2" lift blocks for the rear. stock, they are 4". im assuming the springs have a lot more arch to make up the difference. also, the stock blocks have the bumpstop arms on them, what will act as a bump stop with the new ones?
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lift is ordered, and i picked up Moog LH and RH tie rods today and a sleeve. talk about expensive holy crap.
im also looking for a new push/pull style drag link. is a 1 piece made anymore? Allied was showing that it used individual tie rods with a sleeve as well.
im also looking for a new push/pull style drag link. is a 1 piece made anymore? Allied was showing that it used individual tie rods with a sleeve as well.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Big Sky Country
Are you ditching the power assist and going manual? or just replacing your old drag link?
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replacing the drag link for manual steering.
ill take that part # to Allied Auto parts and see if they can beat it. i guarantee they will. the Napa here SUCKS. the guys are dicks and overcharge. thanks.
ill take that part # to Allied Auto parts and see if they can beat it. i guarantee they will. the Napa here SUCKS. the guys are dicks and overcharge. thanks.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Up Nort Minnesota
I too am very interested in correcting the front end sag on my 77 highboy.
I was thinking about a re-arch of front springs or maybe just stock replacement springs for the front.
I'll be really interested in seeing how this goes for you.
I was thinking about a re-arch of front springs or maybe just stock replacement springs for the front.
I'll be really interested in seeing how this goes for you.
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picking up the kit today, is there anything i should expect during the process? will anything else have to be changed or replaced? brake lines? pinion angle? im gonna pull an all nighter so i need to get any extra parts or hardware today while the store is open.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Yes I would suggest (all 3) new steel braided brake lines from Skj Jacker and a drop pitman arm to keep your adjustable steering link angle under control.
You might NOT need a adj steering arm but.....I got one for my lift. Or maybe on a HB you do not have this set up but still might need the DP arm?
PB blaster the caliper bleeder screws and a box end wrench on them, might as well ck the front brakes shoes for replacement since you are right there in it all.
FYI The calipers themselves are usually a "have to order" item, but you can reuse your shoe brackets. Just at least get them on order in case you break a bleeder screw and can not get it tapped out....
And I hope you got the u bolt kit (front and rear) causes them old ones can be a PITA to get off, and u bolts should not really be re-used anyway.
Good call on the lift sys (4 springs), but be ready to work on getting the old rear mount bolts out, and make sure the lift kit comes with new spring bushings, it should.
You might NOT need a adj steering arm but.....I got one for my lift. Or maybe on a HB you do not have this set up but still might need the DP arm?
PB blaster the caliper bleeder screws and a box end wrench on them, might as well ck the front brakes shoes for replacement since you are right there in it all.
FYI The calipers themselves are usually a "have to order" item, but you can reuse your shoe brackets. Just at least get them on order in case you break a bleeder screw and can not get it tapped out....
And I hope you got the u bolt kit (front and rear) causes them old ones can be a PITA to get off, and u bolts should not really be re-used anyway.
Good call on the lift sys (4 springs), but be ready to work on getting the old rear mount bolts out, and make sure the lift kit comes with new spring bushings, it should.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 8,261
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From: Big Sky Country
Did you end up going with the 2" lift or 4" lift?
If the 4" lift you'll most likely experience some major bumpsteer with the stock highboy steering, grab a pitman arm from a 76/77 highboy to alleviate the severe angle on the drag link and correct the steering geometry.
If the 4" lift you'll most likely experience some major bumpsteer with the stock highboy steering, grab a pitman arm from a 76/77 highboy to alleviate the severe angle on the drag link and correct the steering geometry.
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77&79f250, thanks, but none of that really applies to me haha. The steering works just fine stock, it's drum all around and completely rebuilt, all brand new parts.
I didn't have a single problem getting any bolt off. And I ordered the entire skyjacker kit so i got all new hardware. Only problem was they don't supply leaf spring bolts, so I spent $60 on a bunch of grade 8 bolts nuts and washers.
Montana, I went with the 2". I havnt measured with a tape, but looking at it I gained at least 3-1/2", probably 4". Give it a few weeks and it might settle an inch. My buddy put a 4" or so skyjacker lift on his 90s TTB ford and it settled 2" on the driver side, and get this, skyjacker said that's within tolerance of settling so they didn't do anything about it.
Short update in this thread What Have YOU Done To Your Truck Today? - Page 248 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
Overall 100% happy with the outcome. Will post pics and further details tomorrow
I didn't have a single problem getting any bolt off. And I ordered the entire skyjacker kit so i got all new hardware. Only problem was they don't supply leaf spring bolts, so I spent $60 on a bunch of grade 8 bolts nuts and washers.
Montana, I went with the 2". I havnt measured with a tape, but looking at it I gained at least 3-1/2", probably 4". Give it a few weeks and it might settle an inch. My buddy put a 4" or so skyjacker lift on his 90s TTB ford and it settled 2" on the driver side, and get this, skyjacker said that's within tolerance of settling so they didn't do anything about it.
Short update in this thread What Have YOU Done To Your Truck Today? - Page 248 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
Overall 100% happy with the outcome. Will post pics and further details tomorrow
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Up Nort Minnesota
definitely need pictures.
I will likely be going with 2" skyjacker kit for my 77 F250.
I'm really wondering about ride difference, how is the ride now in the rough stuff with the new front springs??
I will likely be going with 2" skyjacker kit for my 77 F250.
I'm really wondering about ride difference, how is the ride now in the rough stuff with the new front springs??