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@montana, agreed. If I went with the 4" I wouldn't have installed it until I had at least 38's ready to go on at the same time haha.
Are you still running the closed knuckle axle? or do you have a D60 under the front-end?
If it's the closed knuckle i'd probably limit myself to 35's (just ask 'fordtrucknut' about that one )
When you start getting up in tire size beyond 35's it really stresses the puny non-captive spindle bolts on the closed knuckle axle.
Since they're non-captive they already have a nasty habit of working themselves loose and in some cases shearing completely off, oversize tires only helps to exacerbate the situation.
Are you still running the closed knuckle axle? or do you have a D60 under the front-end?
If it's the closed knuckle i'd probably limit myself to 35's (just ask 'fordtrucknut' about that one )
When you start getting up in tire size beyond 35's it really stresses the puny non-captive spindle bolts on the closed knuckle axle.
Since they're non-captive they already have a nasty habit of working themselves loose and in some cases shearing completely off, oversize tires only helps to exacerbate the situation.
Might be a stupid question but whats a closed knuckle axle? I have a d44 hp in front, d60 rear
Might be a stupid question but whats a closed knuckle axle? I have a d44 hp in front, d60 rear
If you look behind your front tires and see a large ball surrounded by 12 bolts (or a smaller ball surrounded by 8 bolts) you have a closed knuckle axle.
If you see your U-joint instead, you have an open knuckle axle.
Highboys were all closed knuckle from '67 to '75, the '76/'77 highboys were open knuckle.
If you look behind your front tires and see a large ball surrounded by 12 bolts (or a smaller ball surrounded by 8 bolts) you have a closed knuckle axle.
If you see your U-joint instead, you have an open knuckle axle.
Highboys were all closed knuckle from '67 to '75, the '76/'77 highboys were open knuckle.
Well my front end is off a 78 F250 so im guessign open knuckle Ill go take a look. Thanks
How direct of a swap is an open knuckle? And are they all disk brakes? I have 4 wheel drum all stock and it kills the leg to have to hold the brakes so hard climbing up steep hills
Whiteisright your truck turned out great, love the stance! It's got a nice ride height and still usable as a truck like it should be.
I've used the skyjacker lifts on both of my trucks for years and overall have been very pleased with ride and flex.
Great look! Also glad to hear the install went well. I'm hoping to get my LB looking similar in stance and height. If you had a sec or two, I'm curious to know the distance from the axle centers up to the body line. Or if you've got a side-on picture, I could make some rough measurements. My thinking from all the posts is that a 4" lift on a LB should look about the same as the 2" lift on your HB.
It looks like Skyjacker is favored for trucks of this vintage. Any thoughts on other brands of lift kits? I see some others that vary quite a bit in price. Also, what is the preference between steering blocks, drop pitman arms, or drop drag link? I've gotten conflicting advice. Thanks.
Steering block NO, drop pitman arm absolutely yes, and on a F250 yes on a adjustable steering link, on a F150 yes on the drop trac bar bracket and a adjustable trac bar.
F250 crossover is the best and takes away the need for a adj steering link all together.
I have a F250 lowboy and am thinking I want a 4" lift kit. If I understand correctly the height difference between stock LBs and HBs, I should end up with a look like 'Whiteisright' has on his truck. Yes? It also seems the bias is towards not using a steering block - guess the Rough Country kit is off the list.