I am having an issue with my passenger rear crew cab window. It will go down with the switch(at the rear door) but not back up. And the master switch does Nothing. I can just put power to the motor and the window will go back up. I tried swapping out switches, no go. I also swapped out the short harness that plugs into the back of the switch, no go.

Also, I just had the whole dash and interior out sound proofing. Any ideas?

 

yea im having the same issue with my driver side rear. it will go up but not down and the master switch does nothing

 

Suggests it has to be a ground to the switch issue, power is supplied to the switch = single wire, switch reverses polarity. ground = two wires.

Moves one way so know has power to it and one ground path is good, (rear window switch). Wires/connection between switch are window motor are good, window moves one direction proves that.

Main switch for that window either complete loss of ground or complete loss of power for that window.

First thing I guess I'd test is ground through all switches involved, should have path to ground through switch regardless of switch position. "up" "down" or "relaxed" states.
If find any one switch doesn't pass test that be at least part of the problem.

And would also test for bat voltage to switch. (Have power to rear window switch, again window moves "down" proves that)

My book doesn't offer diagram for CC, otherwise would/could go into more detail.

 

That is what I was thinking, the ground is bad for "UP". But there are only 5 wires that come into the back of the switch

red/blue constant 12v
yellow/red Down from master
red/yellow Up from master
yellow/red Down from door
red/yellow Up from door

 

The master switch be part of the clue I'd think and to an extent adds another layer to the problem. Reason for that is all windows share common power supply circuit. At least in the regular cab, again only complete diagram I have is for regular cab, it shows all ground circuits go through the main switch in the drivers door. Even the switch on passenger side.

Red=/blue power to switch? or all switches?.
Up or down the grounding required is routed through either the yellow/red or red/yellow wires.

So the red/yellow doesn't have complete path to body ground at some point. Failure at the switch or ground off at some point from removing interior.

How many body grounds for the windows in a CC? How many places connected behind a panel someplace?
Regular cab shows one but may be more in a CC?

Reason I suggested testing grounds, continuity to it. Both motor leads should have continuity to ground while switch in the "neutral" or relaxed position. It only when rocking the switch one way or the other does power enter into one of those motor circuits, one way or the other, direction of juice flow decided in up or down selection at switch.

 

Well I found my problem

Broken yellow/red from master. Also found 3 other wires with cracked insulation. All where the harness goes from the truck to the door. I replaced all 4 wires. Cut out and replaced about 12" of wire. Lickly I had a pices of spare harness so they are all the right color and heat srinked. Otherwise that would of bothered the hell out of me

 

Ah yes found the problem, handy having correct color code wire to fix it too! Yea wrong color even though fixed would have bothered me too, don't like doing things that way never have.

Kinida odd yellow/red wire was bad being as window would go down from door, sure would have thought the red/yellow wire be the problem.
Unless the diagram you used was wrong, based on experience with book I have its certainly possible to be wrong.

 

I had no diagram. Just started untaping and traced colors, circuit tester and Ohm meter