Water Pump Leak - '47 1 ton
#1
Water Pump Leak - '47 1 ton
With only 500 miles on my rebuilt engine, one water pump is starting to leak. I had rebuilt them as stock with new bushings and carbon seals. I'm running four pounds pressure with not excessive belt tension. So I'm now thinking of changing them out to the Bob Drake design. My question is, if I remove one pump at a time do I need additional support for the engine, i.e will the other pump with its integral engine mount be sufficient to hold things in place?
Thanks
Peter
Thanks
Peter
#2
#3
PeeVee
Did you ever run a product called Iron Tight through your engine? A friend of mine who builds Performance Engines introduce me to it several years ago, and I've been using it ever since.
Apparently vehicles MFGs run a similar type through their Engines before they are installed. This friend of mine uses it in every engine he builds, and it finds its way to any no matter how small a crack pin hole or what ever else.
"Caution" don't put it in the Rad, take off the 2 hoses on the Heads and pour about 1/2 bottle in each side the re-connect the hoses and run your Engine for 1/2 hour. This stuff also cleans up rust and loose particles in the block, like from the sand casting.
Also I see a lot of guys fill the Rad right to the top, which is totally wrong that tank is an expansion tank, and it does just that. Give the hot coolant from the Engine a place to start the cooling process. Jst fill a Rad to the top of the Core and replace the cap, no need of a pressure cap any higher than 3-4 lbs.
Again the product is called Iron Tight, great stuff might just cure your problem, once again "DO NOT POUR IN RAD"
Did you ever run a product called Iron Tight through your engine? A friend of mine who builds Performance Engines introduce me to it several years ago, and I've been using it ever since.
Apparently vehicles MFGs run a similar type through their Engines before they are installed. This friend of mine uses it in every engine he builds, and it finds its way to any no matter how small a crack pin hole or what ever else.
"Caution" don't put it in the Rad, take off the 2 hoses on the Heads and pour about 1/2 bottle in each side the re-connect the hoses and run your Engine for 1/2 hour. This stuff also cleans up rust and loose particles in the block, like from the sand casting.
Also I see a lot of guys fill the Rad right to the top, which is totally wrong that tank is an expansion tank, and it does just that. Give the hot coolant from the Engine a place to start the cooling process. Jst fill a Rad to the top of the Core and replace the cap, no need of a pressure cap any higher than 3-4 lbs.
Again the product is called Iron Tight, great stuff might just cure your problem, once again "DO NOT POUR IN RAD"
#4
Pee Vee
Just something to add to 5 Star's comments regarding Iron Tight: We got introduced to it through Cummins who all but dictates its use in a rebuild. We fill the engine with straight water and get it hot then drain the block and rad. Use hot water and mix the recommended ratio of Iron Tight right into it. Pour the mixture into your cooling system and go for another drive. Shut your engine down and let it sit and pressure up as it cools off naturally. Drain it and refill with antifreeze mixture using distilled water. Like 5 Star said: Don't put Iron Tight directly into the rad by itself.
Just something to add to 5 Star's comments regarding Iron Tight: We got introduced to it through Cummins who all but dictates its use in a rebuild. We fill the engine with straight water and get it hot then drain the block and rad. Use hot water and mix the recommended ratio of Iron Tight right into it. Pour the mixture into your cooling system and go for another drive. Shut your engine down and let it sit and pressure up as it cools off naturally. Drain it and refill with antifreeze mixture using distilled water. Like 5 Star said: Don't put Iron Tight directly into the rad by itself.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mooktank
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
7
07-22-2003 06:32 PM
jules
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
12-27-2000 09:11 PM