Just got my Wicked Wheel from Clay at Riffraff and per his instructions the turbo needs to be removed. Do I really need to remove the turbo just to install the wheel or can it be done without removing the turbo?

What do you all recommend, removing it or doing the install with the turbo in? I am not doing a EBPV delete currently, although it is unplugged. Just changing out the compressor wheel.

If the best way is to remove the turbo then I will probably wait to do the wheel and order the non-EBPV pedestal. In order to completely eliminate the EBPV is there anything else that will need to be purchased other then the pedestal?

Thanks in Advance, Adam

 

I would really suggest you pull the turbo. Its the right way to do it. Shortcuts always create other issues down the road

 

Well, that's not what I wanted to here. LOL So other than the EBPV pedestal, is there anything else I need to order to completely remove the EBPV?

Any other suggestion on what I should do while in there or having turbo out?

 

It wouldn't be a bad idea to do a high flow outlet on the turbo if you are going to run the deleted pedestal: Riffraff Diesel: Garrett GTP38 High Flow Outlet

 

High flow outlet, unless you are gutting it yourself, of course if you were doing that, you wouldn't be ordering a blank pedestal too.

 

That's what I was looking for, I know their was something else I needed. Just as well get a rebuild kit to I guess, seeing how the both ends will be apart.

On the Shade Tree scale, how hard is to rebuild the turbo? Any special tools needed?

 

No special tools, just a 5/16" 12-point socket. It isn't very hard at all. We aren't done with our GTP38 rebuild instructions, but these TP38 instructions are almost identical and you will get the idea.

http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/mm5/RE...bo_Rebuild.pdf

 

Make sure you get the Turbo Re-install kit which has two bolts to bolt the turbo back down and the 4 orings for engine to pedestal and turbo to pedestal. You also get a new oring for your compressor halves that will be apart for the new wheel install and the one for the outlet of the turbo.
If you do not want to throw a code then you will need a 470 ohm 1 watt resistor to put in the place of the connector that hooks up to the solenoid on the old pedestal. Do not purchase the 1/4 or 1/2 watt resistors from radio shack as they will eventually burn up.
PM me. I can help you with the resistor for chump change.
Dwayne

 

Forgot to mention that with the turbo out of the vehicle you will very easily be able to clean the area on the compressor housing where the new oring goes. There will be a bunch of black gunk in the place of the old oring. I had to jam two screwdrivers in my turbo fan to break the old wheel loose. The electric impact from harbor freight will not procuce enough hammer effect to bust that thing loose. You need a PNEUMATIC impact to get it loose. I put some oil on my new oring prior to putting the two halves together.

When you pull that tiny clip on the rod that is on the waste gate make sure you put it some place secure like a sandwich bag or it will be gone forever.

The clip on the bottom rod that goes to the EBPV is a pain in the keister to get off.

The turbo and pedestal will have a small amount of oil left inside them when after they are removed so don't take those parts where you don't want dirty oil dripping on the floor or what ever you want to stay clean.
Dwayne

P.S. Make sure that after you get the turbo out THAT YOU PUT BOTH HANDS ON THE COLLECTOR AND PUSH - PULL TO CHECK THE UP PIPE TO COLLECTOR DONUT GASKETS. If you have a leak at these gaskets you better have some time to replace them or just deal with the reduced boost due to the exhaust leaking prior to going into the turbo. I am going thru the very same thing right now and I am replacing my donut gaskets for now which is a very short term fix. The new bellowed up pipes are the permanent fix. My early 99 will cost $800 for new up pipes but I don't want to spend that money unless I get upgraded performance which cost more money, a LOT more money. The late 99 - 03 is $420 for the up pipes. I plan on upgrading the turbo and up pipes to the late 99-03 setup with the improved gtp38R turbo after the first of the year but that is $3000 with ceramic coated pipes and turbo. Damnnnnnn it will be sweet when it is done.

 

Oh now you tell me about the resistors from Radio Shack, LOL. I am currently using them for the EBPV and the AIH delete. Well, so fare they are doing the job. I was going to try and pull the EBPV solenoid from the old pedestal and just plug it back in and fasten it up in the valley some were. Is that doable to keep the CEL off? I dont want to use the resistors if there is no need.

Also I am glad you brought up the turbo mounting bolts as I was wondering if they needed to be replaced. What about all the little 12 point bolts that hold the ends of turbo on, do they need to be replaced also?

 

Whats up my Signature picture dont show up.

 

I replaced the compressor wheel without removing the turbo. Seemed pretty straight forward to me.
Did I miss something.....

 

You can replace the wheel without removing the turbo. It is better to pull the turbo and not use an impact to break the wheel free. Holding the turbine wheel with vice-grips and using a wrench on the wheel is safer. Like Peter stated it just rules out the "murphy factor".

 

Good luck with the wrench and vice grips. If you take even a small amount of that turbo wheel shaft off with the vice grips then it can get out of balance. It only spins somewhere in the 30,000 rpm range. To each thier own.

 

You can do it in the vehicle by taking the comp housing off and zipping the wheel off w/ a small impact. Not the best way but it can and has been done. If you take the turbo out you can figure on replacing the above listed parts. If it goes smooth it would be cheaper than pulling the turbo, but there is a risk in doing it w/out removal.