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You can replace the wheel without removing the turbo. It is better to pull the turbo and not use an impact to break the wheel free. Holding the turbine wheel with vice-grips and using a wrench on the wheel is safer. Like Peter stated it just rules out the "murphy factor".
Thanks Ken.
The really funny part is if instructions that came with my wheels were to say "...remove the turbo...", then I would have pulled it off the truck and placed it on the bench and then used the impact anyway. grabbing a hold of the other end would have never crossed my mind because I wouldn't have known it would work. Does the turbine wheel have reverse threads?
Oh now you tell me about the resistors from Radio Shack, LOL. I am currently using them for the EBPV and the AIH delete. Well, so fare they are doing the job. I was going to try and pull the EBPV solenoid from the old pedestal and just plug it back in and fasten it up in the valley some were. Is that doable to keep the CEL off? I dont want to use the resistors if there is no need.
Also I am glad you brought up the turbo mounting bolts as I was wondering if they needed to be replaced. What about all the little 12 point bolts that hold the ends of turbo on, do they need to be replaced also?
You could use any configuration of resistors you like. For this EBPV actuator though 1 Watt is recommended, so series parallel would be your friend, by that I mean for instance 2 1/2 watt 470 ohm resistors in parallel with another set of 2 1/2 watt 470 ohm resistors in series. Easiest if you can find a 1 watt though. It's just a soft code anyway.
The really funny part is if instructions that came with my wheels were to say "...remove the turbo...", then I would have pulled it off the truck and placed it on the bench and then used the impact anyway. grabbing a hold of the other end would have never crossed my mind because I wouldn't have known it would work. Does the turbine wheel have reverse threads?
Good luck with the wrench and vice grips. If you take even a small amount of that turbo wheel shaft off with the vice grips then it can get out of balance. It only spins somewhere in the 30,000 rpm range. To each thier own.
When using Vice-Grip brand pliers I do not have any issues holding the turbine wheel for removal. You can damage the compressor wheel more using an impact as the flats the socket bites into is pretty soft.
first w.w i installed, my turbo blew up 3 months later. Ended up being that the wheel didnt "seat" the shaft correctly..(wheel was flush with shaft instead of shaft protruding thru it). Second wheel i installed, turbo was out, and seemed that the wheel had wrong threads. So, i "chased" the threads using the shaft, holding exhaust wheel, then backed ur off, rebuilt turbo, then installed wheel again. So far so good, with shaft protruding about 1/4in outta wheel.
If it helps, I used a screwdriver wrapped in a bunch of ductape to hold the compressor wheel, then just backed the nut off w an impact gun. Worked like a champ and no damage.
Thanks for all the replys, I just finished the job without removing the turbo. It was pretty straight forward and easier then I thought. Only took a little over an hour.
I am glad that I did it this way becouse I didn't want to spen the money to rebuild the stock turbo. Having said that I did find side to side play on the compressor shaft, about 1/16 of inch or less. So it sounds like its about time for either a rebuild or new turbo.
It does spool up faster and sounds like a dental drill when when I get on it. =0). No in your seat improvements in power which I expected.
If this lasts a year or so I plan to get the gp38r bb or their is another one I found without bb for 950. Sorry cant remember the name. I travel a lot in the ex and don't want the cab to have a lot of motor noise inside.
Thanks for all the replys, I just finished the job without removing the turbo. It was pretty straight forward and easier then I thought. Only took a little over an hour.
I am glad that I did it this way becouse I didn't want to spen the money to rebuild the stock turbo. Having said that I did find side to side play on the compressor shaft, about 1/16 of inch or less. So it sounds like its about time for either a rebuild or new turbo.
It does spool up faster and sounds like a dental drill when when I get on it. =0). No in your seat improvements in power which I expected.
If this lasts a year or so I plan to get the gp38r bb or their is another one I found without bb for 950. Sorry cant remember the name. I travel a lot in the ex and don't want the cab to have a lot of motor noise inside.
You wouldn't have had to rebuild the turbo if you removed it.
Glad you got it though.
As for the play side to side is normal, as long as it isn't hitting the housing. In and out play is where there should be none.
When I am ready to rebuild the stock turbo or replace it this thread will be a good refresher on what I should do. Hopefully my turbo will last longer then 3 months! That scares me!
Thanks....goes to show you how many times I've been inside these turbos (zero...).
So, with the EBPV housing removed, are you able to grab a hold of the turbine wheel hub and hold it still or is there another method to keep the shaft from turning?
Thanks....goes to show you how many times I've been inside these turbos (zero...).
So, with the EBPV housing removed, are you able to grab a hold of the turbine wheel hub and hold it still or is there another method to keep the shaft from turning?
The turbine blades are a lot stronger than you might think.
Personally I just use a an old insulated screwdriver or tape wrapped down between the turbine blades, and then a wrench or socket on the compressor wheel, which isn't terribly tight if in good shape.
It does spool up faster and sounds like a dental drill when when I get on it. =0). No in your seat improvements in power which I expected.
If this lasts a year or so I plan to get the gp38r bb or their is another one I found without bb for 950. Sorry cant remember the name. I travel a lot in the ex and don't want the cab to have a lot of motor noise inside.
There won't be a SOTP improvement - this wheel moves less air than a stock wheel... Its a downgrade unless you have a surge problem - then its just a bandaid.
The 38R is absolutely ridiculously obnoxious. After 50k miles I almost hate the damn thing. I ran an AIS intake in front of it for awhile and it was quite tolerable, but I could suck the filter minder into the red at will and subsequently was pulling oil out of the engine thru the CCV. Back to the 6637 and the SCREAM... In between the buildings in a place like NYC, it sounds like a cat-in-blender with straight-piped stock exhaust and the windows down - the rest of the time it goes from a LOUD vacuum sound to a LOUD whistle every time the truck hits a small grade. It is downright punishing towing here in the mountains... Some people like this??
For about the same $$ as Int'l up-pipes and (current price of) 38R, I wish I woulda got a T4 kit and an S366 or similar charger...