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3g vs high output

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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 01:41 PM
  #16  
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spikinfool05
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things is where me and gpence live most of the cars and trucks with the 3gs get crushed right away. and the nearst you pull it is in linclon 40 miles away. we still have real live junkyards around here. when i was in highschool i new the inverntoy in the yards sometimes better than the workers. its hard to find some after 1992 parts used around here because when steel got high all the newer stuff got crushed along with some good older stuff.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 01:52 PM
  #17  
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HIO Silver
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It's your call.... no need to be defensive IMO.... Allz me and Fordworth are highlighting that to strictly exclude take-offs from modern vehicles is, well, pound foolish.

There is the risk-reward factor that has to be considered. 'Sounds like gpence would rather spend a C-note which, at least to me and Fordworth, doesn't make sense when it can be done with a low-buck approach... our reward is not much cash outlayed and we can spend the money saved on other goodies. In this day and age, stretching dollars is the way to go.

To each their own and whatever your particular situation dictates.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 02:09 AM
  #18  
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gpence
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havent been online much last couple days. trying to swap bodies on my highboy. lol

I wasnt trying to start a pissing contest I was just stating a fact that with what I've spent on fixing other's car's that have the 3g alt's on them it's more time & money than it's worth as far as I'm conserned. no one around here's gonna rebuild them for $30 cheapest I'v gotten one rebuilt for was a $100 and new parts store rebuilts are in the $165-$200 range after you return the core and of the 6 torass's I've bought to flip for a couple bucks 5 had dead alt's in them which is why I picked them up cheap. and some of the torass's with the alt on the under side of the motor yeah you have fun with getting those off without cutting the lower part of the inner wheel well off or useing a BFH on it. I see why the shop's charge $500-$600 to do the job
I had my 70amp alt rebuilt back in 96/97 and it's doing just fine. granted I've only maybe drove it 12K in the last 10 years. If and when it does crap out well I think I have 4 or 5 still on the shelf 2 are brand new. lol
 
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Old Sep 15, 2012 | 09:39 AM
  #19  
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Just to throw my $.02 in...

All I have ever used is junkyard 3G alternators. I have personally done 2 swaps and plan to swap a 3G into my 06 Superduty to rid myself of the junk 6G

I have swapped a few more into friend's trucks and my dad's Jeep.

All work perfectly fine for about $20 each.

Josh
 
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Old Sep 15, 2012 | 08:35 PM
  #20  
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Somewhat Off-topic, but shows my own personal obsession with the 3G...

Here is a small Superduty write-up

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-6g-to-3g.html

Josh
 
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Old Sep 16, 2012 | 01:34 AM
  #21  
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Riderman
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Originally Posted by montana_highboy
It never "worked" anyway, and it won't "work" after the 3G swap, buy a proper gauge....


Ford Ammeter Gauges: Do They Work? | MILEPOSTS Garage (Tech Tips)
I recently replaced my 76 F250 instrument cluster with one from a 87 ford van. My ammeter now moves to the right of center about 1/4" (the line between the center mark and the extreme right side mark on the gauge,. about 3/4 of the way) while driving down the highway. The needle stay's barely above the center line while idling. If I shut the truck off and turn the ignition key to run, the needle moves about 1/16 inch to the left. I'd say my ammeter works like it should. For the first time ever I must add.
 
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