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Water got low, throwed a code

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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 07:36 PM
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Water got low, throwed a code

I was going up a little grade a couple days ago and the engine suddenly quit, the temperature and oil light came on, the heat gauge buried on hot, and it threw a code. I pulled over and it was still idling so I made a U-turn but it was in limp mode and would only go about 10 MPH, so I made it home and put water in it so it's good now but it still says service engine soon. What is the code going to say and am going to have to pay to get rid of it. (the light). I have a new cap coming.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by EXv10
What is the code going to say and am going to have to pay to get rid of it. (the light)
Won't know until you get the code scanned.

Head to an Autozone, they have scanners that you "buy," then return a few minutes later, after you've read the code in the parking lot.

They'll even read it for you if you ask them.

Stewart
 
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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Stewart_H
Won't know until you get the code scanned.

Head to an Autozone, they have scanners that you "buy," then return a few minutes later, after you've read the code in the parking lot.

They'll even read it for you if you ask them.

Stewart
Thanks, I will have to wait until I get into Redding which is 55 miles away. Anybody know why just low water would cause the service engine light to come on and why didn't adding water fix it and why did it go into limp mode. I kind of like the old days better when you could watch the heat gauge and make your own decisions.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by EXv10
Thanks, I will have to wait until I get into Redding which is 55 miles away. Anybody know why just low water would cause the service engine light to come on and why didn't adding water fix it and why did it go into limp mode. I kind of like the old days better when you could watch the heat gauge and make your own decisions.
You still can. But in this case you didn't notice the high temperature in time and your Ex made the decision for you.

Otherwise, I agree with Stewart. Take it to a parts store and see what the code says.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Crazy001
You still can. But in this case you didn't notice the high temperature in time and your Ex made the decision for you.

Otherwise, I agree with Stewart. Take it to a parts store and see what the code says.
It never got hot, the gauge went from normal to instantly buried on hot. It will be weeks before I go to the city to check it and what would it say, ran low on water?
 
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 01:32 AM
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I used to have a thermostat that caused the same problem many, many years ago on my Cougar.

On a cold engine, after the initial warm-up (long enough to open the thermo), if I stopped and shut the engine off for any length of time, the thermo would close, even though it shouldn't have. The subsequent engine start would boil the coolant because the thermo would stick closed, until the pressure got to be too much and it would suddenly open, allowing the super-heated coolant to flow, and the dash gauge would peg.

After about a dozen times of this happening I finally blew my head gasket.

Stewart
 
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 03:38 AM
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Originally Posted by EXv10
It never got hot, the gauge went from normal to instantly buried on hot. It will be weeks before I go to the city to check it and what would it say, ran low on water?
It would say (probably) P1299 Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Detected Engine Overheating Condition.

Maybe the sensor detected it because it was not bathed in water (coolant).

Looks like your coolant flush didn't work as well as expected. Or you didn't "burp" the system. Now, go change your thermostat.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Monsta
It would say (probably) P1299 Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Detected Engine Overheating Condition.

Maybe the sensor detected it because it was not bathed in water (coolant).

Looks like your coolant flush didn't work as well as expected. Or you didn't "burp" the system. Now, go change your thermostat.
It worked very well. This all happened before the water change and it never did get hot. There was no steam and no heat from the engine. When I pulled over it was in limp mode and as soon as I restarted it all went back to normal but it all re-occurred after driving 5 miles. When all the lights came on the gauge went to hot also even though it wasn't hot. Not hot! The water level is the same as it was after driving 30 miles yesterday and everything was back to normal. That truck has never over heated and the temp gauge has never been higher than a quarter way up. I am thinking maybe it is the cap because it doesn't leak water and it was full of water just a month ago.
Actually that was a great way to drain /refill the water and there was no need to touch the thermo since all the water came out the bottom hose and it was run 10 minutes with petcock open also(read the original post). My water is crystal clear now with no traces of rust/corrosion.
 

Last edited by Stewart_H; Sep 9, 2012 at 05:43 PM. Reason: CLEAN UP.
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Stewart_H
I used to have a thermostat that caused the same problem many, many years ago on my Cougar.

On a cold engine, after the initial warm-up (long enough to open the thermo), if I stopped and shut the engine off for any length of time, the thermo would close, even though it shouldn't have. The subsequent engine start would boil the coolant because the thermo would stick closed, until the pressure got to be too much and it would suddenly open, allowing the super-heated coolant to flow, and the dash gauge would peg.

After about a dozen times of this happening I finally blew my head gasket.

Stewart
It never got hot though. How can I get rid of the service engine light? I heard it was against the law to turn them off for no reason. This isn't the same problem as yours, I was just driving and after 5 miles it all shut down because of low water.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 10:21 AM
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May be a good time for a scanguage. It will monitor ur temps more precisely and allow u to check and clear codes urself. I have heard the dash gauges r set to stay in the middle for a certain range of temp, once it gets higher than that range, it will peg out.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by labman1014
May be a good time for a scanguage. It will monitor ur temps more precisely and allow u to check and clear codes urself. I have heard the dash gauges r set to stay in the middle for a certain range of temp, once it gets higher than that range, it will peg out.
So I have to buy a gauge just to get rid of the light? Again; the temp gauge never even got to the middle and I could put my hand of the valve covers, no steam, no boiling, no ambient heat from engine, nothing. It pegged when it went into limp mode.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 02:53 PM
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Pull your battery cable and reset your system. Since it was temporary fault, the light should go out. It's not against the law.

So you did your coolant change in response to this? Odd you wouldn't mention it before. You could understand why I would think it had something to do with your coolant flush and refill since you posted about that FIRST.

You should reread Stewart post about the thermostat.
 

Last edited by Stewart_H; Sep 9, 2012 at 05:44 PM. Reason: Had to remove a quoted post
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Monsta
Don't turn into an immature little bitch, Brent. (Not a personal attack, like yours, simply random advice.)

Pull your battery cable and reset your system. Since it was temporary fault, the light should go out. It's not against the law.

So you did your coolant change in response to this? Odd you wouldn't mention it before. You could understand why I would think it had something to do with your coolant flush and refill since you posted about that FIRST.

You should reread Stewart post about the thermostat.
I had the limp mode, light flashing, indecent first which prompted me to do the flush the next day and then I wrote the post after the flush. It all returned to normal except the service engine light remained. I will try the battery resetting operation. I read Stewarts' post carefully but again; the engine never got hot. I could rest my hands on the valve covers right after it shut itself down, etc.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 03:40 PM
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The battery trick worked ! (they didn't have computers when I was a mechanic.) thanks for the info. Now I will just have to figure out where the water went which may take a while but I have been smelling radiator water for a month or so.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 04:27 PM
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Check the carpeting under the dash. Maybe the heater core is leaking. When do you smell it the most?

The sensor must be in coolant to give an accurate reading. If yours was low it could have exposed the sensor to air, hence it telling the PCM that it is too hot.
 
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