my limp mode situation
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my limp mode situation
so i bought a 1990 f250 a week ago and it just went into limp mode, i pulled the codes and it said 23,23,1,68,68 found out im supposed to hold down the throttle when testing or 23 will automatically pop up so did that and its gone. my question is 68 means overheating thinking it might be the temp sensor in the solinoid pack but when i went to pull the connector to test it it has water and a real thick black sticky tar like stuff in it. this is a problem? to give some back story on it the speed sensor was just changed and the speedo is still bouncey, the tach dosent work at idle and the wires coming out of the tach sensor or rpm sensor are bare and grounding. now keep in mind the truck runs great but it just keeps going into limp mode. WHAT SHOULD BE MY FIRST ORDER OF ACTION? thanks....
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From: Mi'kma'ki
yes.water and or "tar type stuff" in any of the trans connector plugs is a major problem.
your first plan of action is pulling all the trans connectors that you can find,cleaning them up really,really well with brake cleaner,followed by a healthy dose of dialectic grease.repair anything at all with corrosion,or stripped/damaged wires.
then it's code test time again.you can get false codes if your ecm can't get a proper,clean signal from the stuff it relies on.
which connector exactly did you find the water in? the MLPS? the one,mid way on the trans,on the drivers side?
there is a newer revised connector to resolve this.this should be done.
edit,nah i guess your talking about the solenoid pack plug,or the ecm plug for issues with the tot.still,making sure of the mlps for preventive,along with all the others is a very,very good idea on these older trucks.
your first plan of action is pulling all the trans connectors that you can find,cleaning them up really,really well with brake cleaner,followed by a healthy dose of dialectic grease.repair anything at all with corrosion,or stripped/damaged wires.
then it's code test time again.you can get false codes if your ecm can't get a proper,clean signal from the stuff it relies on.
which connector exactly did you find the water in? the MLPS? the one,mid way on the trans,on the drivers side?
there is a newer revised connector to resolve this.this should be done.
edit,nah i guess your talking about the solenoid pack plug,or the ecm plug for issues with the tot.still,making sure of the mlps for preventive,along with all the others is a very,very good idea on these older trucks.
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yes i am talking about the solenoid pack plug , i was just wondering if maybe the black sticky tar like stuff was some burnt up dialectric grease if possible, another thing is should i give it all a good cleaning , reset codes and go for another test drive ? and could the speedometer still being bouncey mean that i still need to replace the vss again or could other things trigger it to be bouncey?
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From: Mi'kma'ki
that's normally from a dirty signal.pull it out from the rear,and wipe it off.while there,also pull the fill plug and clean off the magnet so more sticks to that instead of the vss.
could be a failing vss,but likely just needs to be cleaned.
every 100k the rear should be flushed.so if it's passed due anyway.....
i missed the info about vss and the tach.my bad.
well the vss i just explained,but since it's new,and if you pull it and it's clean,it could be a failing psom.
the tach sensor signal needs to be clean.try to repair the wires the best you can.sounds like some liquid electrical tape may be in order.
anything at all where you know for sure you have a dirty signal will need to be addressed before worrying about other things.
the tach and speedo need to work flawlessly.the trans ecm needs these clean signals or it doesn't know what to do,and will go going into limp.
no connections can be anything short of spotless.do the best possible job you can repairing anything like this,because it can be the difference between a beginning of constant hassles,or many years issue free if addressed properly.
could be a failing vss,but likely just needs to be cleaned.
every 100k the rear should be flushed.so if it's passed due anyway.....
i missed the info about vss and the tach.my bad.
well the vss i just explained,but since it's new,and if you pull it and it's clean,it could be a failing psom.
the tach sensor signal needs to be clean.try to repair the wires the best you can.sounds like some liquid electrical tape may be in order.
anything at all where you know for sure you have a dirty signal will need to be addressed before worrying about other things.
the tach and speedo need to work flawlessly.the trans ecm needs these clean signals or it doesn't know what to do,and will go going into limp.
no connections can be anything short of spotless.do the best possible job you can repairing anything like this,because it can be the difference between a beginning of constant hassles,or many years issue free if addressed properly.
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ok so i cleaned my connections , flushed my rear diff and took the solenoid pack out and took it up to a pretty reputable trans shop.. they sold me a used pack for 50 bucks and also pointed out that the one in the tranny was from a 98 e4od, he said the electronics were different and would alm ost gaurantee that it would send mixed signals to the brain. also pointed out that the one that was in there had a larger hole in the wire harness connector witch would explain all the junk that got inside there. it seems to make sense so tomarrow i will install the new one and give it a test run. i also put liquid tape on the rpm sensor as you recomended.
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From: Portage Des Sioux, Mo
You should have a cable off the transmission or transfer case to feed the speedometer up to '91. The VSS should not affect the speedo. Try using some liquid electrical tape on the wires on the Tach sender. It worked on mine. I believe the tach not working will cause your trans to have issues. I would start there. I personally don't have the E4OD (YET) but others have said tach will affect trans.
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From: Western SD
Changed the RPM sensor and runs great and OD light stopped flashing.
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ok so i replaced the sol pack, cleaned out connectors and it dose not seem to be overheating or going into limp mode but it still shifts funny i get on the freeway and i will feel it shift 3 times. i think its not going into first gear. the rpm gauge doesnt work that well, it drops out and the speedo needle is still shakey and conall over the place the cruse control dosent work and the tps at warm idle engine off is at 1.7 and 9. somthing wot. which i think has somthing to do with it. tps is black one and i have not replaced the tach sensor just hit it with some liquid elec tape.
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From: Mi'kma'ki
sounds like now you need to fix the tach sensor.replace if need be.this has to work flawlessly.
the tps is obviously out of range.if it has over 50k miles on it,replace and set that to specs.1.2 idle/4.5 WOT
lastly,you'll need to correct the vss/psom issue.doh.disregard the "psom" a '90 doesn't have one.rolape is correct there.second time i messed up about the vss.im so used to the 9th gen,my bad on that.
the tps is obviously out of range.if it has over 50k miles on it,replace and set that to specs.1.2 idle/4.5 WOT
lastly,you'll need to correct the vss/psom issue.doh.disregard the "psom" a '90 doesn't have one.rolape is correct there.second time i messed up about the vss.im so used to the 9th gen,my bad on that.
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From: Western SD
According to the bulletin, the black one has a very high failure rate.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...?highlight=tps
Tuned
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From: Bluffton, IN
Fordf250 what is the psom? We have a 94 idi with the e4od and it will flash the od light and if you smack the dash it will go away and shift normal. What's are problem here? Not to hijack the thread.
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From: Mi'kma'ki
see how to fix it here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...highlight=psom
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ok so i am replacing the tps today. i also tested my mlps and that is way out of wack so i will replace that tomarrrow. the tach sensor i will when i can get it.. also forgot to mention that the instrument cluster gear indicator dose not work at all so that and the fact that the rmp and speed gauges in it arent working right is? this posible that the cluster is bad ? and if it is can this cause problems ? just going through everything i plan on haveing this truck along time so if the parts need to be replaced i will do it
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From: Mi'kma'ki
forddieselnewb,
forget about what i said with your 1990 and the psom and vss.
the sensor in your rear axle is just used for the ABS.i messed up there.follow rolape2's info about tracing down your speedo issues.im not familiar with pre '92's.
your first course of action is seeing to the basics.
making sure the TPS is fresh,set within specs.
making sure you have a working speedometer.
making sure you have a working tachometer.
resolve any issues with your MLPS.
inspect,clean,and grease any and all trans connecters you find,and then see what is left for issues (if any) still after taking care of your obvious ones.
you have too many known issues going on right now to pinpoint anything further.best to get them taking care of first.
.................
lets go pats!!
forget about what i said with your 1990 and the psom and vss.
the sensor in your rear axle is just used for the ABS.i messed up there.follow rolape2's info about tracing down your speedo issues.im not familiar with pre '92's.
your first course of action is seeing to the basics.
making sure the TPS is fresh,set within specs.
making sure you have a working speedometer.
making sure you have a working tachometer.
resolve any issues with your MLPS.
inspect,clean,and grease any and all trans connecters you find,and then see what is left for issues (if any) still after taking care of your obvious ones.
you have too many known issues going on right now to pinpoint anything further.best to get them taking care of first.
.................
lets go pats!!
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remove the speedo cable and lube it . a binding cable causes the speedo fluctuation but also causes a glitching signal from the vss , the one located in the extension housing.
fipl sensor (also known as the tp) must work flawless from a sweep at idle of about 1.0 volts to 4.5 at wot and be smooth .
the tach sensor is bad , it is the processors only way of knowing engine rpm for shift strategy
the solenoid pack is curious teh connector on the 90 should not have been able to plug into the 98.
also if it had a late model solenodi pack that was designed for a modulated torque converter , i can promise you the torque converter clutch driver in the pcm has been fried.
the off/on torque converter feature of the early e4od has a solenoid with high resistance
of say 20 ohm,s and was turned on continuously during converter lockup.
the later modulated solenoid had a resistance of around 5 ohm,s and was pulsed by the pcm so it had a fast response time and by pulsing the circuit it allowed the driver not to overheat.
so if you place a late solenoid in an early truck it fry,s the psm driver circuit
fipl sensor (also known as the tp) must work flawless from a sweep at idle of about 1.0 volts to 4.5 at wot and be smooth .
the tach sensor is bad , it is the processors only way of knowing engine rpm for shift strategy
the solenoid pack is curious teh connector on the 90 should not have been able to plug into the 98.
also if it had a late model solenodi pack that was designed for a modulated torque converter , i can promise you the torque converter clutch driver in the pcm has been fried.
the off/on torque converter feature of the early e4od has a solenoid with high resistance
of say 20 ohm,s and was turned on continuously during converter lockup.
the later modulated solenoid had a resistance of around 5 ohm,s and was pulsed by the pcm so it had a fast response time and by pulsing the circuit it allowed the driver not to overheat.
so if you place a late solenoid in an early truck it fry,s the psm driver circuit