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Power windows flaking out

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Old Sep 2, 2012 | 03:56 PM
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Power windows flaking out

Lately my power windows will at times not work. Generally right after startup and when the weather is warmer. I have replaced the circuit breaker with a regular fuse and saw no improvment. This is a tough one to track down as I can only look for the failure when they aren't working, and have the chance to look, the two times don't line up well. Has anyone had a similar problem and been able to track it down?

The truck is an 87 crew cab lariat which oddly enough has power windows up front but not in the back. Putting them in the back is on my to do list but nowhere near the top. However if I need to do any serious power window work I'll add componants for the rears while at it.

Hmm is there a power window relay, maybe it could be the issue. I have to admit I don't know my trucks factory wiring all that well. I tend to just put in my own as I go about fixing and upgrading.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 03:55 PM
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At this point 101 views and no replies, nobody has anything?
 
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 04:12 PM
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Could be the wiring at the switches. Mine had that problem, and as far as I know, the 80's crew cabs didn't have power rear windows, I could be wrong though
 
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 06:21 PM
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How sure are you its not the switch itself?
 
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 06:26 PM
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Not sure at all but unlikely, it happens to both windows at the same time, if the switch it would be one or the other.

Hmmm I wonder, if something like a loose connection in the door, then operating the switches while opening/closing the door might do something. I haven't tried the switch on the passenger door when they aren't working at the drivers door, I'll have to do that next time it happens.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 06:31 PM
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It was the heat that did it to mine. Melted plastic in the switch housing so the wires came loose. Had to use electrical tape until I bought a new switch
 
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Opossum
Not sure at all but unlikely, it happens to both windows at the same time, if the switch it would be one or the other.
Oh missed that you did say "windows" didn't ya.

Yup would suspect something in the supply to the control/s.

When the windows won't work safe to assume the passenger sides button, it fails to move that window too? as in whole window circuit is/acts dead?
 
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 06:35 PM
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Looking at the diagram window circuit share a common grounding point for both sides, have a moment check that out?

Motors do contain CB's but odds trip both in same moment be about nil.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 06:37 PM
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I understand 80s Fords have a rather common switch wear issue where you have to "wiggle" the switch to get it to work. My fathers 86 Mustang has that problem. But mine seams to be either on or off. They work great 95% of the time, then every once in a while it's like the truck is off.

I'll admit been kinda lazy on it, not at the top of my list, and hard to work out when they are working most of the time. I figure what I need to do is identify likely causes, fix them, and see if it never comes back.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by danr1
Looking at the diagram window circuit share a common grounding point for both sides, have a moment check that out?

Motors do contain CB's but odds trip both in same moment be about nil.
Common grounding, seams odd to run extra wire just to share a ground, don't suppose you have any idea where it is? Are there any relays in the curcuit? They would have to ground thru the switches, are you saying that they run a ground wire from each switch together?
 
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Opossum
Common grounding, seams odd to run extra wire just to share a ground, don't suppose you have any idea where it is? Are there any relays in the curcuit? They would have to ground thru the switches, are you saying that they run a ground wire from each switch together?
Master control (switch block in drivers door) that is grounded, provides the path to it.
No extra wire/s that way, buttons reverse polarity run motor window up/down.

Ground location not identified that year in the book I have, would stab a guess at behind driver side cowl panel? (Plastic panel to right of E brake pedal)

No relays in circuit.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 07:05 PM
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Thanks a bunch, I'll take a look and let ya know.

Power source is off the fuse panel I assume? And the supply for that fuse in the panel is the ignition switch?

I can only assume the ground wire is the black one comming out of the door, lol. But if you would be so kind and take a look at the wire colors for the power supply to the master switch?
 
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Opossum
Thanks a bunch, I'll take a look and let ya know.

Power source is off the fuse panel I assume? And the supply for that fuse in the panel is the ignition switch?

I can only assume the ground wire is the black one comming out of the door, lol. But if you would be so kind and take a look at the wire colors for the power supply to the master switch?
Yes the ground wire is black.

Says fuse #14, and yes fuse 14 gets its juice through the ignition switch via yellow wire and black fuse link then finally the "bat". If that circuit wasn't getting power out of the ignition switch you have other accessories wouldn't work either. Wipe/wash to give one example.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 07:13 PM
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I found it, BK/LG from switch to fuse panel, and LB/BK from fuse panel. Well kinda, that's 86, can't be sure it's the same.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Opossum
I found it, BK/LG from switch to fuse panel, and LB/BK from fuse panel. Well kinda, that's 86, can't be sure it's the same.
Yes, that's right according to my book too.
 
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