Hey guys, so this is my first post in this section of the forum. So I have a 1949 ford that I am restoring. I bought a 1970 LTD and a c6 that i am going to transplant into the pickup. before I took the engine out i started it up and it ran quiet ( carb is dirty so i just put fuel in through the top), so im sure the engine is good. im pretty handy mechanically but am clueless as far as performance.

like i said the carb is in need of a rebuild, but it is the stock fomoco 2 barrel which i would like to change. changing to a 4 barrel is going to require a new intake manifold, as the stock one is for a 2 barrel only. i would also like to consider a different cam while i have the opportunity.

i have several questions.... first off how do i identify the block and heads, looking at intake options there are several different types of heads. im kinda wanting to keep this little project somewhat cheep, what would you guys recommend for a carb and intake setup, also what cam would be the best for me. this isn't going to be a drag truck so i dont need to get crazy, but cams look fairly cheep so why not boost the power a little eh' . what kind of hp can i expect with these upgrades? also is there any other upgrades you guys would recommend.... thanks

 

For something like you are looking for an inexpensive "package deal", it would be hard to beat an Edelbrock Performer setup.
Cam, lifters, 4bbl intake and carb.

Shop around and find the best price.
It's got to be worlds ahead of a 2V.

 

I'm assuming it's a bigblock engine. 1970 may have had a few engine choices being a ford and not Lincoln. If intake is under the valve cover, it's an fe engine. If its not, then a 429/460.
You're posting in the 385 forum so you're thinking it's that, so what do you mean by identify the block and heads.
What's the casting on the heads. Dooe-c. Dove-c. The block is the same for most years. The truck block of the mid+ 80s was a hair beefier.
The thing you really look for with a 460 is connecting rod bolts. The square head bolts are considered not as strong as the "football head" bolts that were spot faced.

I've used the edelbrock packages quite a few times. They are well matched. Other than the edelbrock carb I'd reccomend to most anyone.

 

I'd watch ebay as well for an intake. dual plane Edelbrocks sell pretty cheep if you aren't looking for anything great.

 

<a href=http://s1171.photobucket.com/albums/r546/jessebaysinger/?action=view&current=2012-08-19_16-07-35_374.jpg target=_blank><img src=http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r546/jessebaysinger/2012-08-19_16-07-35_374.jpg border=0 alt=></a>


<a href=http://s1171.photobucket.com/albums/r546/jessebaysinger/?action=view&current=2012-08-30_17-46-29_516.jpg target=_blank><img src=http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r546/jessebaysinger/2012-08-30_17-46-29_516.jpg border=0 alt=></a>

 

I'll look at the casting on the heads when I get off work.... I'm 99% certain it is dove. With that being said, is there a certain edelbrock for that head? Decoding the vin it is a 429 ( assuming it is the original engine). On a side note the chrome was on there when I bought it, so go easy on the jokes...it'll be replaced!

 

What's wrong with chrome?
It keeps the heat out.

 

Ugh, chrome on an engine just doesn't work for this guy

 

Not a big fan of chrome either, but there is a reason people started doing it.

Look between the second and third exhaust ports for a casting number on the heads.
The block casting number should be behind/above the starter.

It's a 2V so you aren't going to have anything like SCJ heads.
This engine already has 'straight up' cam timing, but I would install a new roller timing set as a matter of course with a new cam and lifter set.
Cam, intake, 4V carb and headers can net you some gains without reworking the heads.
Cam choices will be limited by the remaining stock valvetrain components
Recurving the distributor to optimize the advance for your fuel, gearing and weight will help some too.

Specific recommendations would depend on the weight of the vehicle and it's intended use.

 

Both the block and the heads are stamped DOVE-A

 

I'm not certain how much room there is in a "'49 Ford", but the car exhaust manifolds will have issues in 70-90's pickups.

Seeing those valve cover bolts on the engine makes me wonder if someone has put a solid lifter cam in there at some point.
(again, there's a reason for things, like easy access for valve lash adjustments)

Fuel pump looks new, but you might want to change the front and rear main seals while it is easy.
And the valve stem seals too, since you have to move the rockers to change out the cam.
40 year old rubber that's been baking in oil isn't likely to last long, if it is holding at all now.

 

Those valve cover bolts come with the chrome dress up kit.
I know what you're thinking though. Drag racers with solid cans used them so less tools needed to check valve lash.
He's fine most likely. With stock manifolds no one swapped in a solid cam.