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Yep - that's exactly what I get. My delta's are a bit higher than yours are. I have 55Kmi on an original oil cooler. It seems like some of you think I am playing with fire doing the chemical flush. Should I just stick to the distilled water?
you need to do the chemical flush if switching to ELC
You must wipe all chemical properties off the Metal in the engine from the Gold to get the full effect of NEW ELC
And your Oil Cooler will probably at max spec or beyond after
you need to do the chemical flush if switching to ELC
You must wipe all chemical properties off the Metal in the engine from the Gold to get the full effect of NEW ELC
And your Oil Cooler will probably at max spec or beyond after
I spoke to Bismic at great lengths about this as well and the final consensus was that if there is no problem with your deltas and all you want to do is switch to an ELC coolant...... the best recommendation is to flush repeatedly with distilled water as best you can (I plan on 5 to 8 full flushes... unless the water looks nasty in which case I will do more). In my case both block plugs will be coming out and getting replaced with fumotos and I will also be flushing the heater core.
My delta runs with a 3 to 5 degree difference and seldom ever goes farther than 8 degrees (even when towing on the flats). I know for a fact that I will NOT be doing a chemical flush when I swap out my gold coolant for ELC (which will be in the coming weeks before winter). I will do the chemical flush when my deltas begin to get all wonky and I know it's time for a new oil cooler.
If my ELC does decide to go all funky after swapping out the gold coolant.... then I will flush some more with distilled water unless the cooler goes bad. I do not see the need to pay/perform extra work to replace an oil cooler simply because you want to switch over to a different coolant.... especially if your deltas are good.
I spoke to Bismic at great lengths about this as well and the final consensus was that if there is no problem with your deltas and all you want to do is switch to an ELC coolant...... the best recommendation is to flush repeatedly with distilled water as best you can (I plan on 5 to 8 full flushes... unless the water looks nasty in which case I will do more). In my case both block plugs will be coming out and getting replaced with fumotos and I will also be flushing the heater core.
My delta runs with a 3 to 5 degree difference and seldom ever goes farther than 8 degrees (even when towing on the flats). I know for a fact that I will NOT be doing a chemical flush when I swap out my gold coolant for ELC (which will be in the coming weeks before winter). I will do the chemical flush when my deltas begin to get all wonky and I know it's time for a new oil cooler.
If my ELC does decide to go all funky after swapping out the gold coolant.... then I will flush some more with distilled water unless the cooler goes bad. I do not see the need to pay/perform extra work to replace an oil cooler simply because you want to switch over to a different coolant.... especially if your deltas are good.
Yes Sir Im right with ya^^^
if we had cavitation issues then chemical flush would be a must but we dont
Thats the SCIENTIFIC Approach they say wipe the block clean with chemicals when changing coolant then the new chemicals bond better
Honestly if I was him Id leave it alone and do it all when the Oil cooler gets replaced Cuz IT COMING ELC or Not IMO
you need to do the chemical flush if switching to ELC
You must wipe all chemical properties off the Metal in the engine from the Gold to get the full effect of NEW ELC
And your Oil Cooler will probably at max spec or beyond after
Benny -
All I did before switching was the distilled water flushing. I have had no problems. I know the CAt recommendation is a chemical flush, but that has risks of its own. The ELC claims to give you better heat transfer than the conventional coolants, and you probably don't gain anything without a chemical flush, but I don;t think you lose anything either.
Remember the TOTAL amount of silicates in all of the 27.5 quarts is only about 2 oz.
also - just an fyi to earlier posters ...............
Ford says to look at the delta after a careful acceleration to WOT and after achieving maximum boost.
All I did before switching was the distilled water flushing. I have had no problems. I know the CAt recommendation is a chemical flush, but that has risks of its own. The ELC claims to give you better heat transfer than the conventional coolants, and you probably don't gain anything without a chemical flush, but I don;t think you lose anything either.
Remember the TOTAL amount of silicates in all of the 27.5 quarts is only about 2 oz.
also - just an fyi to earlier posters ...............
Ford says to look at the delta after a careful acceleration to WOT and after achieving maximum boost.
Thats all I was saying^^^
Distilled water flush will be his best bet
For the record I have seen 1 guy that made his deltas worse with ONLY Distilled water flush I guess the Drain and fill was just enough to break some junk free so its not 100% Gaurenty either
Maybe he pulled the thermostat IDK when he did it that makes the process alot faster but that might been the straw that broke the camels back too with full flow
For the record I have seen 1 guy that made his deltas worse with ONLY Distilled water flush I guess the Drain and fill was just enough to break some junk free so its not 100% Gaurenty either
Maybe he pulled the thermostat IDK when he did it that makes the process alot faster but that might been the straw that broke the camels back too with full flow
When I did my distilled water only flush my deltas rose approx. 2 deg. I only flushed to put fresh Ford Gold coolant in,I didn't have any problems. I did not remove the thermostat,I just drained the bottom hose and driver's side block drain and refilled with distilled,drove until hot,and repeat until I got clear water coming out. My deltas remained the same the whole way thru the process (approx. 6 deg. at 60 mph.) After I got clear water out when draining I went ahead and put my new gold coolant in and when I drove it again my delta had increased to 8 deg. at 60 mph. I've often wondered about this since then (it was 2 yrs. ago and my delta remains unchanged) I have been running a coolant filter since 4,500 miles so my system should have been well filtered before the flush. I don't know if my distilled only flush actually stirred enough stuff up to plug my cooler a little or if adding the coolant decreases the ability of the water to transfer heat enough to make the 2 deg. difference. If the original coolant fill from the factory was less than 50/50 or if my flush was not as complete as I thought (if I didn't get ALL the old coolant out,I'm pretty sure I did the last drain did look clear ) and then I added my new coolant to the mix and winded up with a over 50% coolant mix I wonder if it would be enough to make this small difference in the delta ? I have heard that clear water transfers heat better that a water/coolant mix but I just don't know how much better. Opinions ? Something to think about.
you can't look at the filter as a 'cure' for anything. It's just a bypass filter, only a portion of the flow is diverted into it. It's better to have it than not, but it's certainly possible to still have gunk after running the filter for years. The oil cooler is not as good of a filter but it gets much more flow than the filter.
you can't look at the filter as a 'cure' for anything. It's just a bypass filter, only a portion of the flow is diverted into it. It's better to have it than not, but it's certainly possible to still have gunk after running the filter for years. The oil cooler is not as good of a filter but it gets much more flow than the filter.
I completely agree that the filter is a by-pass system and only filters a percentage of the coolant but if you run this filter for thousands of miles it's certainly,over time gonna filter pretty thoroughly. Or at least I would think so ?
Also,to add to my last statement,obviously there will also be casting sand "wicking" out of the pores in the block along the way as well. A never ending battle it seems.
If you're trying to save your existing oil cooler, back flush it only or get ready to buy a new one. Or just get it over with and change it when you switch to ELC.
Well, I guess I am going to skip the vc-9 and restore flush. I really don't feel like doing the oil cooler right now. I'll let you guys know if it changes my numbers (delta) much. It seems I am already a bit higher than most.
OK I had a few more thoughts about this because I am never good at making up my mind.
1. Seems like my delta numbers are OK but on the high side - am I just putting off the inevitable? Should I just get it over with?
2. Any chance a chemical flush might help clean rather than clog an oil cooler? I have not seen the size of the particulate that comes out in a chemical flush. Does the flush break things down or just break things off?
If you are already on the edge of having a high delta, I would do the chemical flush and then change out the oil cooler etc. If you have a low delta (as I do 3-6 degrees) then I would flush with just distilled water before switching to ELC. If your deltas are high now then it will be more than likely after you flush chemically your deltas will not be acceptable.
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