I know, another bleeding question. Please don't flame me! I usually use my motive but I don't have an adapter for the 55. Using the old fashioned 2 person method, which is correct:
1. Pump and hold pedel down, then crack and close bleeder before releasing pedal
2. Crack bleeder then press and hold pedal, close bleeder then release pedal

Believe it or not I've seen both methods advertised in various searches and I'm confused. I was using option 1 trying to increase my drum performance with a soft pedal. I had some pressure but then I lost it. Now pedal goes to floor an I have no breaks after doing rear wheels. I'm sure air got in lines as each cylinder would let out a little fluid but no real stream. I think I got air from the driver rear. So, did I add air by incorrectly using method 1 or am I correct and maybe a bleeder wasn't tight to begin with? I siphoned old fluid out of MC and kept it full with new DOT 3.
Also, what's the best way to get pressure back: check all tight bleeders and start pumping repeatedly? Or start over at passenger rear and use option 1 or 2?

 

I used method 2 with no problems. I did the furthermost out first. It does take two people but it goes quick. Just make sure who ever pushes the pedal go 's down slow and does not let the petal up till the bleeder is closed.

 

I use method 1 because I also believe the pumping action helps move the air bubbles off of the surfaces inside the system where they can then be pushed out.

 

Either method ends up with the same result when done properly. It's a two person job, or you can use a brake bleeder kit with a vaccume system (or a power bleeder like Goat mention below)

However, I am a user of brake bleeder screws with a built in check valve. With them, you can crack the brake bleeder, attach a flexabile hose leading to a discharge container, and then go and pump the brake your self, remove the hose, and finally tighten the bleeder.

Another thing to note with the larger trucks with the stock booster, you bleed the booster FIRST, then the wheels in normal order.

 

I've heard about the check valve screw so may try some of these. So initial take shows both methods are correct. I suppose in theory they are both doing the same thing. Just wonder which is most effective. Well i know that answer: a power bleeder! So how do I go about getting pressure back to start over? Also is there a procedure listed for bleeding the MC as you mentioned?

 

Do not confuse my mention of bleeding the brake booster FIRST (for those trucks with it) with bleeding the master cylinder. The stock master cylinder has no magic valves or trickery to it, so it's as simple as add fluid and bleed the whole system normally. Trucks with a stock booster system have a 5th brake bleeder screw located in the slave cylinder of the booster unit, and that is bled FIRST when present.

 

While bleeding the system make sure that you check the master cyl a few time just to make sure you are not running it out of juice.

 

Ah, thanks for the clarification bmoran4, it would help if I paid attention to terms huh?
And yes, keeping the MC full of fluid is a top priority. I'm confident a bleeder wasnt tightened before the pedal was released once, that's the only explanation of having a steady stream to nothing. Now just to get it back

 

Are you using the hose-in-a-bucket when opening the bleeder? (Hose pushed over bleeder going down into a can or bottle of old brake fluid) It prevents air being sucked back in.

 

This. When doing mine it felt like we were making no progress, the MC looked full but the little screw in baffle was disguising the fact it was actually low on fluid, make sure you can see all the way into the MC.

 

My buddy, the retired Ford mechanic, showed me the one-person method. If you have a little time it works well. Insert your hose over the bleeder of the farthest wheel and let it sit in a bucket to catch the brake fluid. Open the bleeder and let the fluid gravity flow into the bucket. When the fluid comes out clean shut the bleeder and move to the other rear wheel and repeat just as you would in the two-person version. It works fine, but is just a little slower. And, as in the two-person version, keep an eye on the MC reservoir to make sure you have plenty of fluid. Good luck, Jag

 

My buddy, the retired Ford mechanic, showed me the one-person method. If you have a little time it works well. Insert your hose over the bleeder of the farthest wheel and let it sit in a bucket to catch the brake fluid. Open the bleeder and let the fluid gravity flow into the bucket. When the fluid comes out clean shut the bleeder and move to the other rear wheel and repeat just as you would in the two-person version. It works fine, but is just a little slower. And, as in the two-person version, keep an eye on the MC reservoir to make sure you have plenty of fluid. Good luck, Jag

 

I'm positive the MC is full as I'm really anxious about that. And I didn't have the hose in a bucket so that could have led air into the system. Makes sense if you think about vacuums. Now I know to use a longer hose to reach the bucket.
Now with no pressure little if any fluid comes out whether pressing or gravity. How do I get the pressure back into the pedal?

 

I'm positive the MC is full as I'm really anxious about that. And I didn't have the hose in a bucket so that could have led air into the system. Makes sense if you think about vacuums. Now I know to use a longer hose to reach the bucket.
Now with no pressure little if any fluid comes out whether pressing or gravity. How do I get the pressure back into the pedal?

 

If you have lots of air in the system, it will take lots of pumping to get it out. Don't worry about building pressure until you have bled the system. Once the air is out and you close the bleeders, then you will be able to boost the pressure.

You cannot really pressureize a brake system with a hole or air in it (such as open bleeder screw or lines with air in them).