I'm having a problem with my A/C it was working then just stopped

2006 f350 XL 6.0L Turbo Diesel

all the fuses are good, system has freon, the dash switch is working when I hold a screwdriver at the clutch with the a/c off it has no draw, when the switch is on it draws the screwdriver like a magnet

I just got the truck about 2 weeks ago and it was working great then next time I went to use it nothing but hot air the clutch is not spinning when I turn on the a/c I gave it a little push today with the screwdriver and it started to spin and didnt stop will I shut the a/c off but still no cold air????

any one point me in the right direction?

Update I had the truck looked at the changed a inline filter and put freon back in the system the filter was dirty but the guy said it was not enough to cause the system not to work, the low gauge was reading 90 and the high was reading 100 they never changed when the a/c compressor kicked on the guy said I have a bad compressor???

 

I would try this first based on your description

SpringerPop's Compressor Clutch Air Gap

 

If you’re going through the trouble of removing the hub to adjust the air gap clean the clutch surfaces with brake cleaner and inspect. You’ll need a wire type feeler gauge to accurately measure the air gap between the clutch. Measure it before you take it apart to see where it is. If its within spec you can try to close the gap by removing 0.10” or so, If that doesn’t fix it the clutch is most likely shot. Inspect the wires and the connector too as well as the ground before replacing a possibly good part. You will most likely need an assortment of thin shims in various thicknesses if it needs major adjusting. Your local A/C shop might have them or one of the online A/C places or maybe even Ford? If the surfaces are worn beyond servicability (you didn’t state mileage) get a replacement clutch assembly. Is the clutch loud? If so replace it. You can "dress" the clutch surfaces some if not too bad. Use a flat surface and some water lubricated wet/dry sand paper. Sometimes you can bring it back to life if it’s just glazed or oil contaminated.

 

thanks for the input, the truck is coming up on 200k but some of the a/c stuff was replaced within the last 3k miles the a/c compressor was replaced at that time too but i dont know if it was a re-manufactured or new

 

First check and see if the clutch is getting voltage before you take it all apart. If the system is low on freon the pressure switch will keep the clutch from engaging, I would take it to a shop to get a diagnosis.

 

I just dont get it?

in the morning when I start the truck the a/c clutch will engage but if you turn the a/c off and back on it does nothing? also when the clutch is engaged it is not blowing cold? had my mechanic look at it said the clutch is good, the system has freon in it (a little low) but should be enough to kick the a/c compressor on this morning i tried to add a can it would not take it??? the clutch was spinning

 

You said parts in the system have been replaced. Do you know which parts? My first reaction would be to say a restriction in the system due to dirt? But probably not because the clutch and compressor sound like their working which indicates the charge is ok, no system restrictions and a good low PSI switch etc… But still no cold air in the truck.
What are the high and low pressure readings on the system? These readings are the best way to tell what’s going on in an A/C system and only way we can give you an accurate answer as to what could possibly be wrong.
The fact that the clutch engages and spins the compressor yet you do not get cold air indicates a possible problem in the dash controls.
When the compressor is engaged for a minute or two feel the high and low lines coming off the compressor or up at the firewall or where ever you can grab them. One line should be hot (careful) the other line should be good and cold. If this is true it’s most likely in the dash controls. Do you have standard or dual zone controls?
Take it to a trusted garage armed with this info. I'm confident a good A/C tech will follow the above procedure and tell you exactly what wrong.

 

I know he said a new compressor, canister? and i think condenser?

yesterday I did feel the lines your talking about they both was about the same temperature neither one was cold or hot they both was just kind of warm from the engine heat I guess, I also tried to jump the pressure switch to see if I could get the compressor back on but it didn't work so I dont think the switch is my problem if I leave the a/c off for 10 minutes or so the clutch will go back on like it needs to cool down or some thing?

so maybe a clog in the system or switch panel? is there a way to test the panel or bypass the it to check the system?

 

You don’t want to "bypass" the low pressure switch. It’s there to prevent damage to the compressor when the systems too low on refrigerant. You may have confirmed that by the fact both lines are the same temp when the compressor did run??? It could also be an overcharge condition too. You said it will kick on after a cool down period. Does one of the lines feel cold when the compressor runs after the cool down period?? It sounds like either your too high or too low on R134a. You need to have the high/low pressures checked and I’ll bet you'll find that the systems out of spec one way or the other. If it went low then find the leak first then have the system evacuated and recharged. Could be as simple as something didn’t get tightened when the new parts were installed. Or it was simply band-aided to get the truck sold??? You need to take it to someone who does vehicle A/C work. Or purchase the equipment and 134a and do it yourself. I don’t think you want to go that route $$$?
So try this before going at the controls in the dash. I dont think thats where the problem is.

 

[quote=droldsmorland;12218640]You don’t want to "bypass" the low pressure switch. It’s there to prevent damage to the compressor when the systems too low on refrigerant. You may have confirmed that by the fact both lines are the same temp when the compressor did run???

Answer: i'd say the was they was pretty close maybe within 10 degrees of each other

It could also be an overcharge condition too. You said it will kick on after a cool down period. Does one of the lines feel cold when the compressor runs after the cool down period??

Answer: no

It sounds like either your too high or too low on R134a. You need to have the high/low pressures checked and I’ll bet you'll find that the systems out of spec one way or the other.

Answer: system was check and I was told it was a little low but not enough to stop the compressor from working I though maybe it was too low so jumped the switch to try and put some freon in the system but didnt work can is still almost full would not take it?

Or it was simply band-aided to get the truck sold???

any thing is possible?

 

I think your spare tire is low on air and causing the AC not to work.
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Just kidding. Without the pressures we are really just taking shots in the dark trying to figure this out. You really need to see what the high side and low side pressure are when the compressor is kicking in and out. Also time the run time of the compressor and the off time.
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With those numbers we can determine if the high side or low side switch is cutting the compressor off, over or under charged, or know to look somewhere else for a problem.
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I am going to guess that they replaced all those parts because the compressor went out. When that happens a lot of junk gets into the system. If it wasn’t flushed properly that junk then clogs the orifice tube, which causes excessive high side pressures which cuts the pump off. Shot in the dark.

Where do you live? Maybe someone on here can help you out that has a gauge set, it sounds like you don’t have one.

 

I had the truck looked at the changed a inline filter and put freon back in the system the filter was dirty but the guy said it was not enough to cause the system not to work, the low gauge was reading 90 and the high was reading 100 they never changed when the a/c compressor kicked on the guy said I have a bad compressor???

the compressor does not make any type of noise? can it be a bad compressor or a block in the system? is there any thing else I should check before I start dumping more money at it?

 

Better look and see if the clutch is any good. Just because it snaps in doesn't mean its transferring any belt rotation to the compressor shaft. Observe the bolt head that holds the clutch plate on to see if it rotates with the pulley when the clutch engages.

 

bolt in the center of the clutch does turn when the clutch is engaged

the pump does not make any noise? the system is holding freon? the orifice filter was just changed? before I throw any more money at this for a new pump do you guy think it might be any thing else?

would a bad clutch still engage or since the center clutch bolt is turning the clutch is good?

 

These compressors have reed valves inside. One broken valve and you get almost the same pressures on both sides. Yes it sounds like you need a compressor. No a broken reed valve will not make any noise. Just my .02