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Well I found a good deal on a pertronix dist kit for my 70, so I bought it. It came today and I jumped right on the swap. They say it takes 15min to do the swap and I think it took me maybe 10. I have read mixed reviews but I am so far really pleased. In the directions they say to NOT remove your resistor but in my setup there was just a resistor wire going to the coil. I removed that and replaced it with some 10ga OFC wire for the full 12v and it worked great. The swap made a night and day difference in my 300-6. Much quicker starts and I noticed a snappier throttle reponse. I used my stock coil as well but even with that and re-gapping my plugs I felt a difference in the seat when flooring it.
A pic of my engine (not that you can see the conversion)
Also got my wheel vintique 15x8s for the rear
I put one in my 69 and left the wiring alone. It worked great for years and is still running, with the resistor wire.
I too thought about doing that but it says its a 12v system. And with the truck running the resistor wire is still only at 9volts. 12v should be much more efficient.
Weird... the pertronix tech had asured me if it had only a resistor wire to the coil. It was only to protect the point from burning up because they can't run on 12v. We did my friend 56 fairlane the same way with a pertronix kit back in 2003 and it hasn't had a coil problem.
Actual oem Ford motorcraft coil requires the resistor wire. This is a factory replacement and says on rock auto website its a 12v coil and an inline resistor is needed for points ignition
If you a high performace coil like flame thrower II should not be a problem with full 12 volts. Don't forget to leave points and condenser in glove just in case.
If you a high performace coil like flame thrower II should not be a problem with full 12 volts. Don't forget to leave points and condenser in glove just in case.
THIS is a good idea....!
Was thinking about the Pertronix addition for my '67 but haven't gotten quite that far yet. I have run pointless in my (currently only) VW for years with a Bosh Blue coil (Hi Po VW replacement) and it's been fantastic so I am sure the F250 will get the upgrade at some point.
A previous owner of my 77F250 (460) had eliminated the Duraspark ignition an replaced the distributor with a Mallory series 27 and an ordinary coil. I replaced that distributor with a Ford points distributor and installed a Pertronix Ignitor II module and Flamethrower II coil. The coil promptly failed and Pertronix replaced it under warranty. Their tech told me to check the grounds on the vehicle which I did. I installed the second Flamethrower II and it promptly failed. Pertronix replaced that one under warranty as well. What seemed to cure this problem was to ground the engine to the frame. The engine had a factory ground to the cab but, evidently that wasn't enough.
This happened about 3,000 miles ago.
I am a car audio guru and do custom instals for side work. I used to work for car toys a couple years ago. I do what's called the Big 3. I have an overkill amount of grounds in 1/0 ofc wire. Battery to frame, block to frame, cab to frame, and alternators mount to frame.