The cylinders looked better than anything else. Which is good cus I would not be shelling out the money to get them sleeved.
The AOD came out of a fox body mustang according to the PO. So it is likely earlier than 93, and more likely earlier than 90 with how long they ran the body. I have been researching the trans and all points are leading to Baumann for AOD upgrades.

 

Yep, Baumann is the place to go. You can tell the trans's age by whether it has a linkage (sheet metal pieces) to the throttle valve, or a cable. I believe cable started in '90-91. A cable AOD is a decent trans, the linkage type needs upgrades almost everywhere. Baumann will point you to what to look for.

 

Andrew for a good help on AOD go to clickclickracing.com a member here is very helpful...his username there is silverfox

 

Thanks for all the AOD info Jeff! It is tons of material to read through.

I am debating if I want to just try to use the transmission without a rebuild for now... Money is getting tight, and I am thinking of what items it makes sense to wait on...

Just a little update...
Finished stripping the motor




Now it is ready for a bath, magflux, hone, new cam, polished crank, lifters, bearings, rings, and all that fun stuff. Dropping off Saturday if all goes to plan.

To do lists are getting shorter, and I have plenty of parts to keep me busy with sub-assembling... Hope to have some more pictures after the weekend, as my summer is filling up QUICK!

 

Looks good Andrew! Keep after it.

 

I just looked at your Photobucket....you have done a ton of work. Good to see another F1 saved from the ravages of time!!

You'll really love that 351w when you get it together!!!

Dan

 

Honestly, with what I see on the piston skirts (not much varnish), and the cylinders, you could probably get by just fine with a light hone, new rings, and whatever the crank needs. Lots of miles left there!

 

I started writing a diatribe earlier and it crashed, so I didn't post it. I have been guilty over the years of rebuilding engines to new specs and putting them into cars that I would never put more than 10 or 20k miles on.

Your engine looks pretty good....the pistons appear to be fine. Let your machinist measure out your crank, but a good polishing might do the job so that new bearings get the clearances where they should be.

Before you pour money into the rebuild, decide on how you plan to use the truck. Is it going to be a daily driver or a weekend cruiser. If it's going to be a low miles cruiser....rings, bearings, a good valve job, and a good cleaning should keep you on some kind of budget.

Dan

 

I am going for durable. Would love to get to the point where I can use the truck as a truck... and one that is good to jump on the e-way. In an ideal world, this will be my "shop truck" while I work on my next project, and the project after that, as well as a reliable driver when its decent out. Right now I am feeling sentimental and do not think I will sell it... Will have more in it then I would be able to get out, excluding labor. We will see what the future wife allows....

Its .060 over, so I was thinking very light on the hone also, and only if the builder thinks it's needed to get the rings to seat. The bearings were not horrible, but it's apart and they are not overall too expensive and I plan on putting on some miles.

I should probably do a head job, but I am going to skimp on that. The valves look to be seated well, and I would rather by a set of heads then pay to try to get more power out of the stockers... will keep an eye out for a good deal.

The cam is going to be a mild grind, I did not like the old one, will try to take and post pics of what looked like a horribly machined piece to my untrained eyes. I figured if I felt I had to replace it anyways, might as well upgrade a little bit. Kinda letting the builder use his experience on this... of course I want it to sound good, but am not looking to push limits by any means.

The builder is thinking well under $600 for everything I listed... My memory is not perfect, that may have included cleaning and inspecting the heads...

Future plans - swap out the intake for one with a 4barrel and maybe a 6-650cfm carb.

Thoughts on waiting to do the rear end swap? Does it make sense to just do it all at once, or can I get by with the stocker for a year or 2.... (would I have to pay 2 times for a driveshaft? does that kill the savings of waiting?)

 

The stock rear end is a Dana 44, which is a good rear end. The only real issue is that most early F1's have gears with very low ratios...so freeway speed is an issue. You will need to get a driveshaft fabricated with an AOD slip yoke on one end and the right U-joint for the Dana rear end. If you switch to a Ford 9" later, chances are you'd need a slightly shorter driveshaft with a different U-joint. Your local driveshaft shop can most likely take a wrecking yard steel driveshaft with the AOD yoke and cut it down, weld on the new yoke, and install U-joints in both ends for under $200. If you retrofit later, he'll only have to re-do one end, so figure on another $125 (or so).

You could replace the gears in your Dana 44 with a ratio of something around 3.25:1 and call it done. Before you start, look at the part tag on your existing rear end to see what you have....it may already be OK.

On you engine, it sounds like your engine man is being very fair. Check out your valves carefully before you decide to just keep running the heads. Either way, you'll find that the 351w has quite a bit of torque....you'll have to warn your passenger when you stomp on it....so they don't bang their head on the back window. If you're on a budget, that two barrel carb in your pictures is probably a 550 CFM which is perfect for a small block engine. They are good carbs...I ran one for years in a 64 Fairlane and another in a 69 F100 with a 390 engine. I think two big barrels are almost as good as 4 small ones (maybe better)!!

Dan

 

Thanks for the response... I am leaning towards waiting and if I switch out the gears no money lost on the driveshaft...

Here is how the cam looked (minus the rust obviously) but if you look close you can see the spots that were not making contact on the lobes.

 

If you mean the wear pattern is not fully across the lobes, that is normal. It makes the lifters spin so they wear evenly. Speaking of which, your machinist should be able to polish the cam. No matter what, I'd be inclined to buy quality new lifters, not the cheap chinese ones (this isn't a roller engine, is it?)

If the valve guides are sloppy, replacing them isn't a matter of going after more HP, it makes a big difference in getting a good valve seat.

 

Welll... motor is still in the shop, they are hoping to have it evaluated before the end of next week...

I have been tinkering away at little things, so kind of a boring update, but I have the firewall ready for the motor, will be doing some sub assembly today for when the motor does get done. I have been addressing the rear cab corners as well, which is turning into a bigger project then I hoped.





May attack some rough body work, or jump on the interior today... I am off til Monday, so progress SHOULD happen.

 

Coming along nicely, looks great! (actually I thought between the dos equis', your girl stripping and grinding while you sat in your bed with your hands vibrating for over 4 hours, no actual work would ever get done!)

Wally

 

Still have to do some sanding and touch-up before finished pics, it looks like it will do just fine with some TLC. This is rattle can TSC Farm and Implement Flat Black. Ordered a hot rod gray/gunmetal/silver paint for the exterior which should come in next week. Will not be ready to spray the exterior for a while, but getting closer!




This picture ^ was before my final coat, hoping you can not see the filler after it is dry in the AM... will wet sand and thicken the paint if needed.

Ready to put the windshield in soon.



Got another coat of the brush on sound deaden-er on.



Painting Interior...





Had one helper - my cousin in town from MI, he cut out the top half of the trans cross-member, hoping I can modify it for the AOD.


Even with a respirator - it took its toll on me.... Good thing is you can not see they greys with all the black paint in my hair.



Rewarding day working on the truck - back at it tomorrow.