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From the pic above. The left hose runs along the back of the engine bay and comes around to T into the overflow.
The other hose comes down, under all the pulleys and up to the port on the side of the water pump.
It is funny you brought this up because I am about to change the coolant filter for the first time (I know I ran it a little long, but not too many miles) and am eager to see what it looks like!
From the pic above. The left hose runs along the back of the engine bay and comes around to T into the overflow.
The other hose comes down, under all the pulleys and up to the port on the side of the water pump.
It is funny you brought this up because I am about to change the coolant filter for the first time (I know I ran it a little long, but not too many miles) and am eager to see what it looks like!
I've washed mine out 2 times and its been full of sand and silt both times.
Yikes... Yeah I remember seeing your video on it.
I would have to check, but I think this filter only has 4-5k miles on it and most say change it after the first 3.
I know it isnt completely clogged tho cuz the lines still get warm.
Yikes... Yeah I remember seeing your video on it.
I would have to check, but I think this filter only has 4-5k miles on it and most say change it after the first 3.
I know it isnt completely clogged tho cuz the lines still get warm.
Your running it more as a full flow than a bypass as well. Bit more pressure to push.
Alex, thanks for the pics, I asked them because Im planning to install mine soon and Im reviewing some write ups and threads related.
The hose that comes from the WP goes to the inlet of the filter cap, right? and from the OUTLET is the other one that goes to the overflow OK?.
Originally Posted by Talyn
Your running it more as a full flow than a bypass as well. Bit more pressure to push.
As I can see is the same scheme as Travis installation, is anything wrong doing in this way?, because after checking several install, I decided to follow this one
And Alex dont FORGET (less than 8 months) to upload some pics of the open filter OK?
Alex, thanks for the pics, I asked them because Im planning to install mine soon and Im reviewing some write ups and threads related.
The hose that comes from the WP goes to the inlet of the filter cap, right? and from the OUTLET is the other one that goes to the overflow OK?.
As I can see is the same scheme as Travis installation, is anything wrong doing in this way?, because after checking several install, I decided to follow this one
And Alex dont FORGET (less than 8 months) to upload some pics of the open filter OK?
Yes the hose you see coming from the side of the water pump goes into the inlet(in the first picture it is the port on the filter cap pointing to the front of the truck).
And Yes the hose going out of the port(in the pic it is the port pointing towards the passenger side of the truck) "t"s into the hose between the overflow bottle and the top of the radiator.
I realize it isnt a pure bypass, but I have had no problems with restriction. Ever since I flushed and installed my "normal" gauge stays at N to O.
Also, I dont neglect maintenance so I dont plan on ever having a clogged coolant filter. or any other filter.
Nice, I'm glad to see I'm not the only one. I'm doing a new water pump and hoses, I don't think my system has ever been flushed and when I do. Pictures will come.
One more question, when you put the fitting in the WP did you lose to much coolant?, or you first drained some from the radiator?
I had the system drained when I did it because I was going to flush it anyway, but I imagine you would lose quite a bit of fluid if you didnt do it fast.
I say that because when Todd was replacing my HPOP you need to remove the hose thats on top of the water pump to get to that plate to access the HPOP gear.. and fluid went everywhere.
Since that side port is lower than the hose on top, I imagine it will let fluid come out too.
Oh and just cuz I was already out there taking pics for someone else I figured id make a video.
I had the system drained when I did it because I was going to flush it anyway, but I imagine you would lose quite a bit of fluid if you didnt do it fast.
I say that because when Todd was replacing my HPOP you need to remove the hose thats on top of the water pump to get to that plate to access the HPOP gear.. and fluid went everywhere.
Since that side port is lower than the hose on top, I imagine it will let fluid come out too.
Oh and just cuz I was already out there taking pics for someone else I figured id make a video.
Ok, thank you.
Why havent you changed that ORANGE intake hose?
As I can see is the same scheme as Travis installation, is anything wrong doing in this way?, because after checking several install, I decided to follow this one
And Alex dont FORGET (less than 8 months) to upload some pics of the open filter OK?
There is absolutely nothing wrong with doing it this way.. It should be noted that it might take a little bit longer for the engine to warm up this way b/c coolant returning out of the engine is going to go to the filter instead of bypassing back through the engine while the thermostat is closed. So, the engine is having to replace the coolant taken by the filter with cold coolant from the radiator, so naturally the cold coolant that enters the engine now has to heat up causing the engine to warm up a touch slower. This isn't a problem in any way, despite how some people might want to look at it and it is not a full flow filter, it's still a bypass. It's just taking a small amount of coolant that would normally be getting bypassed back to the engine or returned to the radiator through the thermostat and filtering it. Coolant still has full ability to bypass to the engine or radiator, just a small amount of that is going to get filtered..
Also, should the coolant filter ever get clogged up, it will be fine. The system will just operate as it was previously designed since coolant can't go through the filter. Nothing bad is going to happen from having a clogged coolant filter.
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