Engine won't start
#1
Engine won't start
I just had the distributor rebuilt for my '57 312 in my 1956 F100. It won't start. I have the TDC marker on the indicator and the rotor is pointing to cylinder number 1 on the cap but I got nothing. I am working by myself so I can't tell if I have a spark but nothing else has changed. I am using a Pertronix electronic ignition instead of points and condenser and it all worked before. Am I missing something? Any suggestions? Should I sell it now and start over?
Chris
Chris
#2
#3
Did you have the distributor rebuilt because it stopped running? Maybe something else is wrong. You can test the coil with a multi-meter to see if the resistance values are correct on each set of windings (there are two). Also, if you're careful, you can get a remote starter switch so that you can crank the engine while you're next to it & check for spark. By careful, I mean make sure it's in neutral because a remote starter switch will jump power to the starter solenoid directly from the battery, so if it is in gear it'll start moving.
Do you have fuel? If it sat long enough for a disti rebuild, maybe fuel in the carb evaporated....you would need to crank long enough for the fuel pump to get fuel from the tank to the carb.
Dan
Do you have fuel? If it sat long enough for a disti rebuild, maybe fuel in the carb evaporated....you would need to crank long enough for the fuel pump to get fuel from the tank to the carb.
Dan
#4
#5
Yes there is gas and I had the distributor rebuilt because the plate that rotates with the vacuum advance was stuck. It ran previously. Can I try and start it without the vacuum advance attached and just rotate the whole distributor to see if it fires? Should the rotor always point to the number one cylinder at TDC? How do I tell if the engine is on exhaust or compression by the piston position?
#6
Pull the #1 spark plug and hold your finger over the hole while you rotate the engine on the correct direction. You'll feel the compression when you get to the compression stroke. It needs to be at TDC on the compression stroke before you point the distributor rotor towards the #1 spark plug lead. If you're on the exhaust stroke it will not start. Keep in mind that the distributor turns one turn for every two crankshaft revolutions
#7
First thing I would do is pull the coil wire from the cap, hold it about a 1/4 " from ground (block, bolt, frame, etc...) have someone crank the engine and see if you have spark. No spark, wiring/petronix issue. Spark, replace coil wire in cap, pull a plug wire from the cap, insert a phillips screw driver into cap, hold plug wire 1/4 " from screwdriver shaft, have someone crank engine, no spark, bad rotor or cap. Spark, then it is fuel, air or timing issue.
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#8
I had a similar issue when I installed a petronix unit in my wife's 1957 Fairlane. I made several calls to the petronix tech line and they walked me through several tests that checked out. After some head scratching, the tech requested me to put a ground wire from my distributor to a known good ground. I hit the key and the car started right up.
So, my suggestion would be to put a ground wire on your distributor and see what happens.
So, my suggestion would be to put a ground wire on your distributor and see what happens.
#9
Pull the #1 spark plug and hold your finger over the hole while you rotate the engine on the correct direction. You'll feel the compression when you get to the compression stroke. It needs to be at TDC on the compression stroke before you point the distributor rotor towards the #1 spark plug lead. If you're on the exhaust stroke it will not start. Keep in mind that the distributor turns one turn for every two crankshaft revolutions
HaHa! But after it happens to you, it will never happen again..or I hope not, at least!
#10
I'm always working alone.......maybe it's me??? anyways, I would get a remote starter button so you can crank it by yourself. Turn key on, hook up switch (make sure your in park or neutral) and crank.
Hook up a test light to a positive, touch positive side of coil and crank. if it has signal from the petronix kit the the light should pulse.
Hook up a test light to a positive, touch positive side of coil and crank. if it has signal from the petronix kit the the light should pulse.
#11
I'm always working alone.......maybe it's me??? anyways, I would get a remote starter button so you can crank it by yourself. Turn key on, hook up switch (make sure your in park or neutral) and crank.
Hook up a test light to a positive, touch positive side of coil and crank. if it has signal from the petronix kit the the light should pulse.
Hook up a test light to a positive, touch positive side of coil and crank. if it has signal from the petronix kit the the light should pulse.
#12
#13
The remote starter switch is a simple switch that is normally open. Hook it from the battery positive to the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid. When you push the button it'll engage the starter. You'll need to power the ignition system, so turn the key to the "ON" position.
Pull the high tension lead from the coil to the center of the distributor out and hold it about a quarter inch from a ground like the block. Crank to see if you have spark
Is there any chance you left the rotor out??
Pull the high tension lead from the coil to the center of the distributor out and hold it about a quarter inch from a ground like the block. Crank to see if you have spark
Is there any chance you left the rotor out??
#14
#15
OK, I got a remote starter switch. I have a spark coming from the coil wire to the dist cap but none at a wire pulled out of the cap with a phillips screwdriver in the hole. The rotor is installed. I should say that everything worked fine until I pulled the distributor out to have it rebuilt. Should have left well enough alone. Could this all be timing or will a spark still be generated when the rotor passes a post on the inside of the dist cap? How does a rotor go bad? Thanks for everyone's input, anyone make house calls?